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XT660Z Mods Share views on all the mods you have done and those you intend to do

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  # 1  
Old 13-10-09, 15:53
tripletom tripletom is offline
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Suspension options

After working out why I ended up on my arse on sunday I am more seriously considering upgrading the suspension on the Tenere.
The options I can think of from memory are-
Hyperpro spring kit.
Ohlins shock.
Now I think somewhere I read about Ohlins fork springs, but for the life of me I can't find where.
I also think it shouldn't be too hard to find an ohlins spring to suit the rear, but again, can't find any off-the-peg sources.

Anyone with knowledge on these things, or other options, please say.
  # 2  
Old 13-10-09, 16:36
Gas_Up_Lets_Go Gas_Up_Lets_Go is offline
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Ahaaaaa

I've been chucking (was going to say tossing, but it might be misrread) this idea around for a while, and I've pretty much made a descision;

You can get a Hyperpro spring set for around �180 that has both front fork springs and a rear spring to replace the stock ones, this includes new fork oil. I would think it is an improvement on the rear setup, but probably not as much as the Ohlins option (and a bit cheaper too!)

Now, the 'problem' is the tool you need to take the forks apart, I managed with the TTR forks but for the life of my can't remember how I did it! The other thing to do while the forks are apart is to replace the seals too. So I'm toying with the option of just giving it to the dealer and having them do it all for me.

I'm going to go with this option, just as soon as I can squirrel away the cash from marital view.

That and the new can..
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  # 3  
Old 13-10-09, 16:53
stevied1969 stevied1969 is offline
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Do you need special tools on the Ten to change the front fork springs?

I haven't done anything on the Ten so they could be different to the Fazer I used to have, but on the Fazer it was just a case of removing the fork tops and taking everything out from the top, then putting it all back in again but with different springs.

Last edited by stevied1969; 13-10-09 at 17:23.
  # 4  
Old 13-10-09, 16:58
tripletom tripletom is offline
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I shall have a look at the fork tops and see, I couldn't see anything too special about them.
  # 5  
Old 13-10-09, 19:11
Gas_Up_Lets_Go Gas_Up_Lets_Go is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevied1969 View Post
Do you need special tools on the Ten to change the front fork springs?
.
There is a nut right inside the leg, it's a 'special' tool but I managed last time on the TTR....
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  # 6  
Old 13-10-09, 19:53
josephau josephau is offline
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I think Wilbers also make a set for the Ten, 5 year warranty I was told by OTR. In addition, for those who are vertically challenged like myself, Wilbers makes a special short version for the rear. For another €200, one could also get a hand-adjusted dial for the rear, no more getting hands dirty. I don't work for them, but I'm considering that.

Ohlins website says it carries the set, I suppose you can from whoever carries ohlins stuff?

Correct me if I'm wrong, when changing the front fork springs, shouldn't the oil be changed too along with seals? If so, then doesn't one need to basically take the forks apart from the bike and the tire in order to do the job, a bit more elaborate than takng off the top cap, exhanging the parts and screwing back the cap?

My stock rear is already on 7/9 hard and the front is 21/27 (the latter number is the hardest). And that is with just empty stock panniers and solo, with over 18000km. It's the beginning of the end of the stock suspension.

Last edited by josephau; 13-10-09 at 20:00.
  # 7  
Old 13-10-09, 20:20
tripletom tripletom is offline
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Having checked the manual, and looked at the bike, it appears to just be a case of unscrewing the fork tops as per all the other bikes I've done springs on. I've seen the need for a long 'special tool' when changing the fork seals as the fork needs to be split.
Josephau, you shouldn't need to change the seals, but yes generally the fork oil is changed as well, sometimes for a thicker or thinner viscosity.
You are right as well about removing the forks from the bike, though it can be done in situ if you can get the weight off the front.
There is normally a drain plug on the bottom of the fork leg to drain the old oil out.
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