From the service manual, the procedure doesn't seem to be too complex, 2 screws front 2 screws back. One thing I have to watch out when lifting the tank is the fuel pump, but other than that, is there anything else I should be mindful of, of course, both removing and putting the tank back?

Yeah, make sure that it doesn't have a lot of fuel in it and the coolant cap can get caught up as well.

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As Steve says no1 tip is do it when it is almost empty. Then when you have removed all bolts turn the rad cap 180 degrees so that the it will come past the rad cap.

Then remove the air filter snorkel this makes getting to the connections and fuel pipe a lot easier.

Then lift it from the front and rest the tank on the radiator. Then place a block of wood or something around 10cm high under the rear of the tank and rest on the frame.

Now from where the air snorkel was you can easily get to the wires and fuel hose. The tabs on the connectors are fairly stiff but you of course must push these tabs in before the connector will come apart.

Thanks SteveD and Scottnet. To get to an almost empty tank I guess I will have another 400km to go. The purpose of this is to identify if there are any points of the tank that the weight of a full tank may be sitting on the frame which causes the vibration. If so, I attempt to put some gummie or something to cushion it. While I am at it, may be I wire a couple fog lights too.

The tank already is rubber mounted so I dont think you will find anything there

Oh. Thanks for that tip. So do you get that 'shaking' vibration on the handlebar between 3.5 and 4.5k rpm when your tank is full? Or is it just me?