Quote:
Originally Posted by
steveD
.....................or alternatively you can get some cheap Symtec heated grips and use Tucano overmitts.
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Exactly what I did.
Try this-
My post from another thread:
So I bought some heated grips (well, tis the season) from
www.windingroads.co.uk
Thought I'd let you know how I got on with fitting them.
This is what comes in the package:
As you can see, they aren't heated grips, but heat pads (kinda like underfloor heating)
This means you can keep your existing grips which is what I wanted to do.
They draw a maximum of 3A, my bike has about 9A to spare so this is fine (check your user manual)
However, I didn't want to forget to turn them off and come back to my bike to find a flat battery.
So i needed to find a way to make sure they only came on when the key is in the ignition
First thing then -
A fused relay.
A relay allows a circuit to be switched on when it receives current from another circuit.
What I've done is to use the rear tail-light as the switch (only comes on when the key is in the ignition)
This is how it works:
When current flows through the 'Switch Live' (i.e. when the tail light is on) the coil draws the plunger towards it through electromagnetism, thus closing the circuit and allowing current from the battery to flow to the grips.
Here you can see the 3A fuse inline and the relay being fitted:
Bits I needed:
Fuseholder
3A Minifuse
14A 12VDC Relay
17A cable (one red, 1 black) 5m each
Various crimp terminals (rings, bullets and sheathing)
Heatshrink
I got all my bits from CPC, but you can get them from Halfords, Maplin, or any car parts store.
Next, tap into the tail light circuit to provide that 'Switched Live'
I snipped the positive wire of the tail light, and added another cable to go to the relay.
Where I snipped, I added a bullet connector each end, reconnected and heatshrinked it.
The blue crimps are for easy reconnection, the heatshrink prevents any cables from coming loose at a later date.
Final stages here are to connect the battery live and battery ground terminals to the relay(I used ring terminals directly onto the battery)
And here it is in place:
Looks like it was part of the original wiring, doesn't it? Good, it's supposed to!
(Clue, it's held on with a cable tie)
So the next step is to create a small loom to run to the handlebars, the positive comes from the relay, the negative runs straight back to the battery.
So I took my two 17A cables, measured the length and then heatshrinked them together.
Very boring job but neat and tidy.
This ran under my seat, under my tank until it met the original forward wiring loom where i cable tied it to that and ran it to where I wanted the switch on my handlebars.
Make sure you still have correct movement in your handlebars!
Ready for the grips!
There are 3 items you will need now:
WD40 - To remove the grips... lift the edge of the grip, give it a good soaking inside and give it a wiggle. Most should come off easily enough.
Switch cleaner - Or any IPA-based solvent (No, not Indian Pale Ale... IsoPropylAlcohol!) After your grips are off, give the bars a thorough clean, dry and then do it again to be sure! No sticky bits!
We'll come back to that last can in a minute.
The heat pads go on easily enough, they have a sticky backing but I made sure by wrapping them in electrical tape to hold them in place.
You'll want to place them about 1/2" from any controls. The throttle is a little trickier, as you need to make sure the cable can move as you twist the throttle.
Here's one fitted:
They don't fit all the way round the bar, so I placed the gap where the palm of my hand would be.
We want heat on our fingertips at the front!
I placed it so the cable can travel with the throttle and also is well away from controls in that area.
Once it's stuck down it's ready to use that last can:
Hairspray??? - Yes, hairspray. I found this is the best way to get the grips back on again after. Once you've fitted the heat pads on, give them a liberal soaking of hairspray and the grips should just glide back on. Eventually, the hairspray will set solid, like glue. Sorted!
Now, we need to fit the switch and complete the wiring.
The switch can be mounted into a fairing or panel (requires a 19mm hole), or you can do what I've done here and just mounted it on my handlebars for easy access.
The bracket for mounting is included in the kit.
As you can see, the switch has a Hi and Lo setting.
Both of these need to run to each grip.
Also, from each grip there is an earth/ground which needs to run back to your battery
Here is a final wiring diagram:
The last thing to do is to tidy up all the wiring, cable ties are your friends here!
I also put heatshrink over all the connectors so they can't short circuit in the rain.
Job done, finished, put the kettle on.
(Oh yeah, I also bought Tucano Urbano Muffs and I now wear summer gloves all year round!)
Stay toasty,
Weave.