Throttle Sensor Adjustment
 

DISCLAIMER: YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND MAY VOID THE MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY.

Throttle Sensor Adjustment:

To do this modification you need to put the bike in diag mode:

To access DIAG mode:

switch off Engine Run switch, switch OFF Key switch. Press both SELECT & RESET buttons and then switch ON Key switch. Keep SELECT & RESET buttons pressed for at least 8 seconds. Display then changes to "DIAG". Release SELECT & RESET buttons.
Select Diag mode by pressing again both SELECT & RESET buttons.
Select code below by pressing SELECT (up) or RESET (down).

On the digital display select 01 (throttle position) and make a note of the number on the screen. It should be between 16 - 18.

Now locate the throttle sensor, its on the right hand side of the bike behind the cylinder.

Slacken the two bolts indicated in the above photo. Using a T25 Torx.

If you rotate the sensor clockwise/ anti clockwise you will see the number of the digital display increase and decrease.

Set the value to between 15 & 18.

DISCLAIMER: YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND MAY VOID THE MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY.

I'm wondering why you schould change the throttle sensor??
Can anyone please tell me?!

When schould you do it?
Why schould you do it?
What does it do the bike?
Etc...

hello ,i hope this might be of some help.
The fuel injection uses the TPS to indicate throttle opening, so it can be adjusted to increase the amount of fuel without increasing the amount of air. The results are a richer mixture which should smooth any surging ,as the bike is run very lean for emission purposes and results in the surging some people are experiencing

TP - Throttle Position - This sensor provides input signals to the ECM as it reacts to throttle shaft rotation, telling the ECM where the throttle is, as well as if it's opening or closing, and how fast it's opening or closing. It is at the rear end of the throttle blade

Ahaaaa.... So thats why! Thanx a lot :sunny: Buck

So is it safe and must to increase the value to 26???The only mod i have is a K&N filter....

Do get richer mixture by adjusting the throttle position sensor?

Whats the gain about adjusting it?

Is it when your opening the throttle you will notice the difference?

By increasing the TPS to 26 does increase the fueling, but does not help with the cutting out when the throttle is closed. There is a small gain in power.

But it will make the bike surge more, as when the throttle is closed the air is shut off for an idle mixture, the extra fuel at this point will cause a run on effect & does cause a surge. I have done quite allot of playing with the TPS lately & found the best setting for my bike is 16, hardly any surge. There again I can adjust up my fuel mixture using my Fuel Mod to give me that extra power.

Hi everyone.

I was just wondering, if I had a Power Commander fitted, would I still need to adjust the TPS if using a DNA Stage 2 to make the fuel richer or would the Power Commander do this? I am tempted to buy a DNA Stage 2 filter but most advice I get is to fit a Power Commander if I do this, but they are quite expensive and I am not technical enough to do the Kev Mod. Therefore, would me adjusting the CO2 and the TPS be satisfactory as regards the fuel mixture with the DNA Stage 2?

Cheers,

Pingu.

I might be wrong in saying this, and maybe Kev can correct me if I am, but I was told that the need to adjust the TPS (throttle sensor position) is to correct an improper setting of the TPS itself (frequent cut-outs, etc.) or to rectify a bike which is too lean and when this is not helped by increasing the CO1 levels at the dash.

I installed the DNA stage 2 filter one week before I received the PC. I increased the CO from +8 to +50 (first tested the bike with +40) and the bike worked quite well. In fact, the stage 2 filter seemed to increase the power a lot at low and mid revs ( http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=661)
After installing the PC I noticed another equivalent power increase to the one obtained with the stage 2 filter but I could have also lived without the PC.
In my case, increasing the TPS value made the bike work really bad (tested it before installing the PC)
Just my 2 cents

The correct thing to do is to set the throttle position sensor up against your bike. It will be different from bike to bike....

Buck says it will smooth surging, an d Kev says that it wil surge more....
Confused....

I will bow to Kevs knowledge as my info is not based on personal experience,but from technical literature.:sad1:

Try it, set the TPS to 26 ride it for a few days, then set the TPS to 16 then ride it again.

With my fueling mod, setting my TPS to 16 did improve my surging as setting it to 26. Give Fridayman
a PM as he has already tried this experiment.

Hi,

I have done a bit of playing with the TPS but no luck. I had it changed two weeks ago and still surges. No change with it at 26. (CO=15). Back now at 17. (XTR - May 05)

I read in the Spanish forum that there are two types: A1 and A2. Mine is A1, it seems that A2 goes better. So I phoned Yam Spain today and they said they wouldn't know...

Can anyone confirm about the A2 TPS? Many thanks in advance.

Cheers,

FH

How can somebody identify what version of TPS has on his bike ???

A1 or A2 ???

It's easily done, unscrew the 2 star shaped screws (gold colour) on either side of the TPS. remove the TPS from the throttle body, give it a wipe and you will be able to read either A1 or A2 on the inside by the plug.

Remove your TPS & you will see the stamp.

I have read several posts about people succeding in getting Yamaha to replace their TPS for a A2 type. None of them lived in Spain but they were from different parts of the world. You might need to remind them that in case your bike stalls and you have an accident because of it they will be responsible as you had asked for the TPS to get replaced.

With the TPS set to 25 the bike will surge more then if it is set to 15, standard setting is 17. The bike will produce more power at 25 then set at 15.

The new A2 TPS will not stop surging. One thing Yamaha has done with our bikes running lean is to update the engine ECU from a 00 to a 01 which does help a lot with slow running conditions. I would also recommend a fuelling device which would increase fuelling & improve on the surging. There are a few to choose from, read under Fuel Devices. http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=630

The A2 TPS is the recalled replacement TPS & if your Yamaha dealer has fitted a A1 TPS, this is old stock & is now super ceded to the A2. The A2 TPS are been change for cutting out & not surging.

Thanks for the explanation. I'll contact the local dealer again and try to get the A2 TPS. I'll you posted.

Cheers,

FH

13 ?
 

I've just fitted stage 1 and 2 filters and a kev mod.

Checked the tps angle via the diagnostics and it's set at 13. is this not a bit low?

Not going to ****** about with it until later but what are other peoples thoughts on this...

I did experiment wth the tps too, i have bought before 10 days dna stage 1 & stage 2 with standar exhausts and no fuel mod,when i fitted them i adjusted co2 from 6 to 25,bike was feeling quite stange(lots of surge and at low rev awful),i tried then to adjust tps,i tried from 17 to 25 and the bike was handling more awful then before!then i decided to adjust the tps to 20 and co2 to 40,now the bike is very smouth with minimum surging with more power at low and mid revs!the conclusion is that you have to experiment a lot with the settings to find the perfect one:happy2:

T25 torx driver
 

:50: Hi tried to loosen throttle sensor with T25 torx bit, but noticed my driver was going to need a bit with a hole in the centre. The idea of these is to make tamper proof. :angry4: Brilliant! more like someone wants to make some money selling you an extra tool. Could not get one at halfords. Tried google which linked me to ebay and a seller called " sandingbelts ". Cost �1.40 postage though �2.10, still its only �3.50 in total not too bad.:icon_sunny:

i just knocked off the little pin in the center of the screw. Move it left -right- left a couple of time and it comes off.

Now you can use your standard Torx bit.

Ok thanks for that little tip I shall go and try it!:coolsmiley:

The base setting for the TPS is around 16 to 18.

The higher the number above 18, lets say set to 23 the more HP the motor produces but with more surging, TPS set to 13 will have reduce HP but with a smother running motor. You would need to play with the CO1 as well to find the best result once you have moved the TPS.

I have done these tests on a Dyno & can show anyone the dyno sheets if they would like to see.

Talked to my local dealer some days ago about this and he contacted the Swedish Yamaha service crew. And the answer he got from them where that you should unplugg the wire and set the TPS angle between 0.63-0.70 Ohms by mesureing on the contact pins. Preferly as close to 0.70 Ohms as possible.

I�v never read anything about this by researching the net, has anyone else?

The TPS has got 3 pins and i�v tried to measure it but my multimeter only shows one decimal and I couldnt get any readings on any pins at all.

Also, is there any recall on the TPS that referes to specific TPS number rather then the chassinumber on the bike? My 07 XTX has got the A1 TPS but when my dealer searched there database no recalls came up regarding my bike.

I�v removed the snorkel, plugged the AIS, set the Co to 23 and the TPS to 14 and my bike surges at about 30km/h in 1 and 2 gear and at 40km/h in 3 gear. Im waiting for a O2 controller from Kev.

Hi guys,

Having an aprilia pegaso with the same engine and the same problems, i was wondering in what way turning the TPS produces accurate readings of the actual opening angle.

I had a bit too low idle rpms, so I increased them by turning the idle screw. I believe my TPS reported around 16 degrees before adjusting the idle rpm. So I assume the idle rpm screw just limits the minimum opening angle. This way, it seems a bit unlogical to me how the turning of the TPS sensor wouldn't alter the mixture resulting also in a different idle rpm. So I don't know how to adjust both parameters (idle rpm and tps sensor) in a way to resolve surging and, more importantly, cutting out.

I fixed jerking and cutting of with TPS adjusting.
The TPS value was too low. It was only 14-15 at approx 1500 rpm. I put it to 16. And also increased CO2 from -4 to 10. Now I can believe that my bike can work so smooth.

Well I've tried to do this but the initial proceedure only changes my clock setting. The diag doesn't come up. My bike is an 09 XTZ. What's the go ?

read the first post. page 1

I have several times. Please tell me what I have missed.

You cannot enter diagnostic mode in the dash of the Z model. To perform diagnostic checks/test etc. on the Z you need to get a plug in diagnostic tool. TBH it's well worth investing in one. Cheapest place to buy one is here.

Thanks. I had a feeling, by my research last night, I would need something "plug in" to access the "diagnostics"

All good now
 

My 02 eliminator turned up today, so did the plug & play deal. Went for a 15k ride, then dropped into my local Yamaha dealer, a quiet lunchtime. A young mechanic, who used to board with one of my sons dug out the genuine little tool, so we hooked it up. Bumped up the reading from 10 to 15. The TPS was @ 16, so left it where it was for the moment.
Went for another test ride, 40 odd k's. Bikes running how it should now :003:

:023: Good stuff - It's not what you know, but who you know!

Default
 

Hi All


Can someone please give me the DEFAULT / factory values for TPS and CO?


I am sure it is buried somewhere on the site... :-)


Thanks

Which XT660 & what year?

Default co and tps settings
 

Ooops.. my apologies..

XT660R 2009

Thanks in advance..

Marc