Who blocked their AIS? Do you have oil coming out of yours?
 

How did you do it, i opened up my airbox, saw the little hole and placed a bolt in there and started the engine...saw no difference in popping and backfiring so decided that i might not be blocking it properly.

Will some silicone do it?

Why is their an oily residue around it?

Are you very sure you have the AIS pipe as it should be bone dry no oil at all??????? :angry3:

Sounds to me you have the engine breather pipe.

The pipe is on the outside of the air box on the left side of the bike it is the top hose.

The hose is to be removed & blocked on the out side of your air box, using a plug. I used a bolt & ground the head round & inserted it into the pipe, that way there is no chance that it will be sucked into the motor & distroy it.

Does anyone have any pictures of its location?

This subject has been discussed in lenght in the ASK KEV supporters forum, blocking off your AIS pipe on your XTX & XTR will reduce the popping back in the exhaust system, on the later ECU's the popping is reduced by 98%, it also stops that annoying noise from the air box at around 3000rpm when you are on the cruise or just opening the throttle.

Quote from the ASK KEV section

If you want to get rid of the poping back from the exhausts, you need to block the AIS pipe at the air box end. This will reduce the poping back by 98% on 07 to present XT's & by 50% on 04 to 06 models. I use a bolt & ground the head round & left a small bit of the shaft so you can get it out of the pipe easily. You then refit the pipe back onto the airbox, otherwise it will suck dirt into the motor.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...evxtx/1-11.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/DSCF2286.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/DSCF2288.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/DSCF2287.jpg

I must get round to paying for my membership.

Thanks

I cover all subjects in full with detailed photos, you missing out.:incon_aargh[1]:

Hey guys, Did you notice a difference in removing the AIS? I did the same mod on my WR450 and it made a huge difference. I also done the Air box mods as well, the only problem i had with this was sand. I used to ride 3-400km in the deserts of oman and if i had a technical laydown the air box could and would get a lot of sand in it. This same problem also caused a mate of mine to end up having his WR engine rebuilt. I would like to get some more grunt out of the TEN and will be doing the Filter box mods and change the filter as i dont have too much of a sand issue now being back in blighty, As for the AIS how will it affect the bike when it come to emissions testing later ?

Does this mod give any more power or make the bike run better?? As i quite like the popping and backfires

The AIS mod has no effect on performance at all, it is a emission control device that inject air after the exhaust valve into the exhaust port. This extra air is like taking a hair dryer to a fire, it is used to make sure we burn as much of the unburnt fuel NOX gasses exiting the exhaust port to be more greener.

When the AIS is not blocked off & after market cans have been fitted will cause the bike to pop & back fire. Blocking the AIS on 04 to 06 models reduces the popping by 50%, 07 to 09 models it will reduce the popping by 95%.

Also blocking the AIS reduces air box noise when the snorkel is removed & or a DNA stage 2 filter fitted.

im so excited about blocking the ais, especially I have otr exhaust mounted with no db-killer :P

by the way, what is the other pipe right below the AIS pipe?

Cold idle up valve intake pipe.

:toothy10: that was a great mod and it only took 2 minutes. i rate it as the cheapest with such a huge effect.
I almost have no popping now, it really did reduce it to 95%.
just to be sure, are there any side-effects?

No side effects at all to the bike, but don't tell the greenies.

I'd say there is a side effect. You loose the smile on your face that all those lovely explosions produce hehe

cant believe the effect this as had on my 2-1 system brill,nice one Kev http://www.xt660.com/images/icons/icon7.gif http://www.xt660.com/images/icons/icon14.gif

checked, my bike still turns on the car alarms when i pass them :) so off with the popping, it still sounds great :)

The AIS injects air into the both exhaust ports after the exhaust valve.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/XT660AIS.jpg

Something really weird happened right after I blocked the AIS.
The bike does not start well anymore, when cold. It happened exactly right after i blocked the pipe. First i thought it was some weird anomaly, thats why i didnt mention it right away. I have to press the starter button sometimes for 20 seconds or even more. Almost emptying the battery and when the engine starts, its around 200rpm at first, then slowly gets to normal idle rpm.

Now I dont know where is the catch, at the same day I also washed my bike, maybe some electric connection got wet, and I tanked some fresh gasoline, maybe it was crappy gasoline? I havent put any new gasoline yet, and i didnt unblock the AIS yet, just asking if it is even remotely possible, that the AIS has something to do with it :(:(

Just checking you did block off the AIS pipe? not the cold start idle up valve pipe by mistake. If you block the wrong pipe you will have cold starting & cutting out problems when the bike is cold.

The AIS would not effect hard starting, it is an emission control device that does not effect A/F ratio at all.

Yes it was the AIS. I tested this by pinching the tube and the popping went right away. Then i blocked the tube for real.
I also cannot believe the cold start fault was the AIS.

Anyway, i dont know what it was, this morning it started with a push of a button. It rained all night and the bike was outside, so it couldnt be any damp issue... maybe.. I will, to be sure, unplug all the connectors and use CASTROL DWF on them.

i just blocked my AIS.... i have to say its no different in popping... infact it didnt pop much anyway but, it rides smoother... doesnt feel like its trying to pop and cut out and seems to have stopped alot of the surging.

Are you sure you blocked the correct pipe, as a 07/08 model it should take most all of the poping.

yes... its the one on the top left (if sitting on the bike) same as the one in your picture

That's the one.

it has made a difference in the smoothing it all out... and popping is less, but what i meant was it didnt pop that much anyway so the reduction isnt really that much... worth doing this tho.

No worries. If you are using standard Can's the poping is hardly there, if you are using after market Can's you will know what I mean by popping.

i done this today , and its better on riding very smoth :D

many thanks

i have an 2005 xt660x with stage 1 and leovince exaust

Good stuff.:brushteeth:

yeah :003:

i must do this mod,i,m running a mm 2\1 with the db in, i,m sure it was the popping that caused the silencer to go bang. Scorpion rebuilt it for free, but the worst thing was the exh. gases were blowing straight onto my rear caliper while riding home from germany,without me realising when i went to brake ,the pedal went straight down,oops. Must have boiled the fluid.

Just did this mod (finally after having the bike for 2 years) and the popping has all but totally disappeared. Mine is an 06/07 with GYT-R pipes with baffle tubes removed.

Drilled the airbox straight after, and jerky running is a hell of a lot better also, but will get the parts for the KEV mod this week to give that a try.

It hasn't bothered me that much over the time I have had the bike, just got bored on a rainy sunday...

Hello!

I read everything related to this issue of annulment of AIS and I have a question that is:

* Aborting the AIS, the CO is in the same value found at the time of the cancellation, or CO can re-register, or cancel will obey after the insulation?

Other:

* This complements the AIS and the CO or each system functions independently, if I touch one harms the other or not?

I ask this because the 2 deal with exhaust gases, in my opinion, something will complement ......

Opninones welcome and in this way we learn and improve all .-



My compliments .-

AIS stands for Air Intake System, AIS injects air after the exhaust valve & has no effect on the running of the motor, it is an emission control device that burns off the hydrocarbons after the exhaust valve.

Co adjustment through the dash does effect A/F ratio & the running of the motor but only up to a TPS angle of 18, after a throttle angle of (18 TPS) the motor runs on a 3D fuel map & the Co adjustment does not effect the A/F ratio.

Thanks for your quick response!

According to his response, I understand that annulling the AIS would not change the CO recorded on the board.
My bike has the CO in vivo 17 and 50 meters above sea level, you think of this as well?
Conclusion: I was advised to cancel the AIS and modify the CO?

My compliments .-

Blocking the AIS will stop the popping in the exhaust. What year XT do you have?

My XT660R is November 2007, moreover, is fully factory and without any change .-

I blocked my AIS off yesterday and it worked a treat with the Leo's fitted, stoped scaring the old lady down the street. :laughing11:

I would not set your Co any higher than it is now, as you have a 10 ECU & they tend to start stalling if the A/F ratio is made any richer than 15.

Why do you want to increase the CO?

Exactly, I do not want to increase the CO, I'm just looking for a value of CO that suits you the engine and my bike 2 weeks ago that I have and not what his value set at the factory. I tell him I'm from Argentina and this bike is assembled in Manaus, Brazil.
From what I've read say that the CO works until 2500 or 3000 RPM and then the same 3D mapping is responsible for carrying over these RPM or 18 TPS as well you say, however, if the board works CO values ​​from -128 to 128 I think the value 0 would make sense, but it is not, dropping to -0 is going to jerk the bike with little gasoline, but does not stop at idle, which if it happens by increasing CO +17 +15 values, in order ... a dilemma ...

The Co adjustment will only work at around 2 to 5% throttle opening, after that it runs on the map. the CO can be adjusted from -10 to + 20.