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Chain/Sprocket advice
I've been quoted approx �180 for genuine yamy chain/sprocket and those rubber bushing things in the rear hub, including fitting. Sounds good???
Also, has anyone used one of these...? http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/index.html |
All in that is good if you are going the original route. If you want to get much better quality then go to B & C Express, look at the recent threads in the drive section and you will see a recommendation by the Capt which is easily the best quality and price you will find. Then the only descision you have is do you or a garage fit them. You will need a special tool to dismantle (or grinder) then link back up (rivet tool �40 to �50) unless you already have them.
Kev suggests shimming the cush drive, Manic Mic buy a new one every tyre change. Up to you really, personally I would try the shimming and see how you get on with it first. |
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Whatever you do - a golden rule for any moving metal/metal contact is keep it lubed and change at half/two-thirds recommended intervals oil and filter where appropriate. Almost guaranteed long and trouble free engine and power train life providing all tolerances maintained properly. |
My dads got a scottoiler on his bike which is very good but can be annoying as it takes time to set up and also the cost at the start can be a bit of an off put. But i would say if you ride alot or ride all year round you would probably like this one.
My brothers varadero 125 has the loobman on it and for �18 or so pounds it will oil your chain you jus have to take time to mess around with it and find different oils that will cling to your chain more than oe engine oil will. As long as you take time to mess with it it will work but takes alot more time than with a scottoiler. I have heard alot of people replace the plastic duel feed with a piece of metal pipe like the scottoiler becasue the plastic can wear out very quickly. Depending on how many miles you ride and what you use your bike for depends on what route you take. The loobman is handy because if you dont use it no oil goes onto the chain, whereas if the scottoiler is wetting your chain too much you have to mess around trying to set it for your correct type of riding (town, country, motorways, fast, slow riding). |
The OEM chain has only 7,000 Tensile LBS. You could get a better aftermarket chain with 8,500 Tensile Lbs for the same price.
I personally do not like the OEM chain & think Yamaha have fitted a weak chain for the torque of our XT"s. With chains reported to break from 4000kms, mine only made 18000 kms & it was stuffed. Go & buy a good Xring chain. http://xt660.com/showpost.php?p=28949&postcount=19 |
When my chain wears out I'll be fitting a D.I.D. chain. I've been informed that they are one of the strongest and longest lasting chains. The specs look good.
http://www.didchain.com/specs.htm |
DID, RK they are all good as long as they are Xring & have a tensile strength of over 8000 Lbs.
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I read a fair bit on chains, just not sure on Yamaha prices. Not too keen on it TBH will probably get my sister to send over the one Capt has recommended! When my chain snapped my friend & I used the hammer & brute force method. One thing that I read somewhere confused me was that the wheel should be pulled all the way back and then the new chain be measured up to see how many links be removed. Shouldnt the wheel be puched all the way forward? |
Which Ebay tool? Please post a link. The wheel should be pushed all the way forward.
I use a gen Suzuki chain splitter tool kit, but that cost me an arm & a leg. Then again as a bike tec I used to use it every other day to fit chains. |
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Sorry, forgot to provide a link. The link is your post #6 from this thread... http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=3477 Here's the link itself... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Delux-H-Duty-...QQcmdZViewItem But you've already answered |
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