Chain/Sprocket advice
 

I've been quoted approx �180 for genuine yamy chain/sprocket and those rubber bushing things in the rear hub, including fitting. Sounds good???

Also, has anyone used one of these...?

http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/index.html

All in that is good if you are going the original route. If you want to get much better quality then go to B & C Express, look at the recent threads in the drive section and you will see a recommendation by the Capt which is easily the best quality and price you will find. Then the only descision you have is do you or a garage fit them. You will need a special tool to dismantle (or grinder) then link back up (rivet tool �40 to �50) unless you already have them.

Kev suggests shimming the cush drive, Manic Mic buy a new one every tyre change. Up to you really, personally I would try the shimming and see how you get on with it first.

On my previous (sports,sports/tourer) bikes I have always fitted a Scottoiler and have had long chain/sprocket life. For my BLUEY I have bought the Loobman on the basis that I do not need a regular measured oiling but one that can be regulated by hand (and experience) to give the amount of oil required for that particular ride - i.e. a combination of how much you squeeze into the delivery tube and how much 'pinch' you apply to the tube to regulate. I figure some rides may want a good splash when its short and dusty and others a parsimonious dribble when doing the long rides to a meet on that tarmac stuff.

Whatever you do - a golden rule for any moving metal/metal contact is keep it lubed and change at half/two-thirds recommended intervals oil and filter where appropriate. Almost guaranteed long and trouble free engine and power train life providing all tolerances maintained properly.

My dads got a scottoiler on his bike which is very good but can be annoying as it takes time to set up and also the cost at the start can be a bit of an off put. But i would say if you ride alot or ride all year round you would probably like this one.

My brothers varadero 125 has the loobman on it and for �18 or so pounds it will oil your chain you jus have to take time to mess around with it and find different oils that will cling to your chain more than oe engine oil will. As long as you take time to mess with it it will work but takes alot more time than with a scottoiler. I have heard alot of people replace the plastic duel feed with a piece of metal pipe like the scottoiler becasue the plastic can wear out very quickly.

Depending on how many miles you ride and what you use your bike for depends on what route you take. The loobman is handy because if you dont use it no oil goes onto the chain, whereas if the scottoiler is wetting your chain too much you have to mess around trying to set it for your correct type of riding (town, country, motorways, fast, slow riding).

The OEM chain has only 7,000 Tensile LBS. You could get a better aftermarket chain with 8,500 Tensile Lbs for the same price.

I personally do not like the OEM chain & think Yamaha have fitted a weak chain for the torque of our XT"s. With chains reported to break from 4000kms, mine only made 18000 kms & it was stuffed.

Go & buy a good Xring chain.

http://xt660.com/showpost.php?p=28949&postcount=19

When my chain wears out I'll be fitting a D.I.D. chain. I've been informed that they are one of the strongest and longest lasting chains. The specs look good.
http://www.didchain.com/specs.htm

DID, RK they are all good as long as they are Xring & have a tensile strength of over 8000 Lbs.

Kev, have you tried that tool on ebay, is it quality?

I read a fair bit on chains, just not sure on Yamaha prices. Not too keen on it TBH will probably get my sister to send over the one Capt has recommended!

When my chain snapped my friend & I used the hammer & brute force method.

One thing that I read somewhere confused me was that the wheel should be pulled all the way back and then the new chain be measured up to see how many links be removed. Shouldnt the wheel be puched all the way forward?

Which Ebay tool? Please post a link. The wheel should be pushed all the way forward.

I use a gen Suzuki chain splitter tool kit, but that cost me an arm & a leg. Then again as a bike tec I used to use it every other day to fit chains.

Thought so.

Sorry, forgot to provide a link. The link is your post #6 from this thread...

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=3477

Here's the link itself...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Delux-H-Duty-...QQcmdZViewItem

But you've already answered

Yes that's the one you need & at a very good price. I paid 3 times that price for mine from Suzuki.

Thanks for the advice about drive sets Kev.
Have bought Tsubaki 520 Sigma X ring endless chain plus steel sprockets coming tomorrow. The retailer reckons this is comparable with DID ZVM in tensile strength.
http://tsubaki-rider.com/?type=tech_specs

Hi Kev,

What brand/type do you recommend for the front and rear sprockets (and are easily available in Oz)?

Did you need to change the front sprocket when you put the new chain on at 18,000 Kms ? ... did you replace the rear ?

Thanks

Paul

All the answers here.

http://xt660.com/showpost.php?p=26346&postcount=6

http://www.mickhone.com.au/Acessories/rkchains.htm

I used JT sprockets. Order them at your local bike shop.

http://www.mickhone.com.au/Acessories/jtsprockets.htm

tyres / cush drive
 

Evening All.
Just got myself a set of the Avon Distanzias. Nobody has probably heard of them, very rare tyre, no talk of them on this forum !!!!!!!!!! lol. . . . Now ,how right you all are. Dam Amazing !! Mega grip, (even in the wet), excellent cornering. Hope they last as well as reported. But whilst having them fitted at a mates garage, he pointed out the rear cush drive. Perrished, broken up, looked like it had done 50k. (not 1900 !!!!!) Called the yam dealer bought the bike from who said it will becovered under warranty. He seemed of no surprise at all. (obviously commen prob ????) Do anybody know if there is a heavyier duty cush drive available ? How many and how long are yamaha going to keep replacing for ???
All comment appreciated. Cheers
2007 xtx

I guess they will only replace you that one set for free as everything you get under warranty goes into their records with your chassis/frame number, but they are only cheap and yes they do wear out a lot, Kev has deviced some hard rubber wedges to put in between the exisitng rubber blocks to stop them having so much play, have a word with Kev, he might tell you how they work and how to make your own.

Was messing around on the bike yesterday after cleanin all the gunk around the front sprokect and started on the rear when i checked the chain i noticed there was alot of play on the rear sprocket. I didnt take it off or apart (hadnt time) but i take it is the cush drives that are causing this? I cant understand why they designed them so they need replacing so much or wear down so much. I might when i get round to buying a padack stand take the rear wheel off and look at how bad they are. Cause at the moment there is a good enough bit of play with them.

By chance how much are they off the top of someones head??

I thought that that kind of play in the chain means it needs replacing?

Bought one from Yammy the other day for �21 but I'm sure you can get 'em cheaper. Might pay to bulk buy them :eusa_whistle:

Am sure my dealer quoted me �16 for a set.
Got my first set on warranty but looking at the wear I'd be claiming every 800 miles.

Fitted them last time with a smear of vaseline but they where wearing just as fast. So I took the new set out and refitted the old set but packed them out with old inner tube. Will just do this till I sell the bike when I'll fit the new set.

The inner tube works fine and stops the very loose sprocket carrier giving a snatchy transmission.

I'm just about to have some more cush drives fitted when I have my new rear tyre fitted. I'll be on my 4th set in 8000 miles. It's quite common to chew up cush drives with a torqey single engine. Mine cost �18.19.

I've tried lubricating the cush drives with white grease but found out it made no difference to the life of them. I've also had a chat with Yamaha and they confirmed that the XT does chew em up quick.

I think this if one of those big dealers things where they make a good bike but design certain parts that get comsumed very easy like crush drives. If they no about why dont they design a new cush system or something like that? cost too much and they are getting money from people buying the cush drives at around �20 a pop. What i am going to do about it? Probably just go the same route as deafblind and use some sort of rubber to pack the worn crush drive out with.

Dont no wheather any of you's have heard of this idea or wheather it is real or not but should they not make the cush drive out of 2 sets of rubbers, 1 set that are tough and take up most of the room then another slimmer set that are more spongey that give, therefore meaning you get a better ride and the cheaper slimmer cush drives are the only ones you should have to replace!!! If you understand what i mean.

I'm gonna start shimming mine with tubes. 5000 miles and haven't changed yet. Feeling sloppy though.