The loose bits you are seeing are just the small bits of rubber which connected the 2 halves of each set, nothing to worry about. I certainly wouldn't think about replacing these yet.

When you squeeze a new pair and compair them to an old pair you can tell the difference. As they burn up they loose their springyness and start to go to dust. The real test is to put your bike in gear with the engine swiched off and stand next to the bike and rock it back and forth. You can watch the wheel move and the sprocket doesn't and also see how much slack there is. With a new set in it's nice and spongy. With an old set it knocks and gives you the symptoms of a slack chain.

Hi Kev,

Would you please post a picture or 2 of the belt(padding) in place nect time you have the rear wheel off.

No point me experimenting when you have it down to an art.

Thanks

Paul

I wont be able to do it for a while as my current bike is been traded in 2 hours time & I pick up the new one.

Basicly add rubber strips between the rubber dampeners & the wheel hub, until the sprocket hub is nice & tight.

Just to add my 2 pennys worth, the cush drive manicmic pictured are very much what mine looked like but being a cheapo i just stuck some extra rubber in and it worked ok for me. Took all of about 10mins. The rubbers will need replaced sometime but i dont think every time you change a rear tyre is right maybe ever 12k miles or so.

It's all down to how smooth a ride you want. I change mine every 3000 - 3500 miles and considering how much time and money I've spent trying to get the smoothest ride possible I don't think another �18 is gonna break the bank to keep a smooth ride.

Keep in mind that a good set of cush drives will make all the other bits last longer. ie, rear tyre, gearbox, chain.

Also, I was advised by a bike mechanic to change them each time and believe me, he's right. It makes soooo much difference.

Why buy new, get an old inner tube from your dealer and fill the gaps with that. It's not just that you get a smoother drive it's just kinder to your gearbox and final drive which should ultimately save you money.

Just put new rubbers in when you sell the bike. My first rubbers where replaced under warranty after 900 miles, which was a totally silly milage. Have done 7000 miles in 9 months so work that one out.

Inner tube works great. Recommend using blackboard chalk ot talc as a dry lubricant to help assembly. WD40 works but its a bit messy.

It all depends on how much you appreciate your bike.

I don't do cheap bodge. I do proper.

I understand that �18 is not that much to pay for a set of crush drive rubbers, but when you add that on ever time you change a tyre, add it up and you are coming very near a sports tyre price which uses alot more rubber to be made.

Yamaha have designed them to be replaced because the quicker the wear out the more people will buy = more profit for them. Also because with a big single you need something that wears out more and gets replaced, crush drives compaired to chains, spockets etc are cheap.

My dads got a honda varadero 1000, and i looked at his crush drives after 15k miles and they look brand new. Yes his bike is a v twin but it makes a hell of alot of torque and it doesnt get an easy life, mostly sunny sunday blasts or fulled loaded up touring.

But everyone has there own opinion on what should be done

cush drive
 

Had tyre fitted when bike done just under 2000, cush drives all in bits. Yamaha done them under warranty without any question. (the guy in service agreed they are **** and should last longer)