How Often Do You Change Your Cush Drives?
 

I'm curious as to how often people replace their cush drives.

I replace mine everytime I get a new rear tyre which last me about 2500 - 3000 miles. It really does make a big difference and they only cost �18.

only changed mine once when I was on about 16000 i think, me sprocket had a lot of movement so thought i'd better!!:sad5:

mine was about 16000 also though I think it should have been sooner maybe 7000 ish as now need replacing again 23000, they do appear to take a beating.

Good thread, I've been contemplating this very subject.

When I last had my wheel off (after my puncture) I noticed that it wouldn't have much more in it and when I took it into 'West London Cowboys' much later I flagged it as something that would need checking. They said that it's will need doing soon but it's got a bit more life in it (which probably means it was fcuked at least 4,000 miles ago!).

This is still the original one and I'm nearly 14,000 miles on the clock! What would the symptoms of a knackered one be? Will it pull to one side on hard throttle? Make a noise? Sprocket wobble? Odd rash? Cotton mouth? Blurred vision?

I would say excessive manual clock/anti wise rotation with your hand. Harsh power take up when pulling away is a sure sign also. Visually they will look miss shapen and shagged.

Worth replacing as it makes a world of difference, probably extends chain life also though this is just a hunch open to confirmation from those who know, Kev?

I have never replaced my rubbers, I shim them up everytime I renew my rear tyre. I use a solid rubber belt that I cut into strips to take up the free play.
Just me trying to mod everything on the cheap again, hey don't knock it until you have tried it. That's a 120 Pounds in my pocket not Yamaha's.

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great tip. I will give it a go

If you can't get your hands on a old conveyer belt, you could always try an old inner tube. Putting the strips on the outside of the rubbers.

I've got 7200 miles on the clock and I'm on my 3rd set of cush drives.

Here's a picture of some old ones.

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...X/DSC00082.jpg

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...X/DSC00081.jpg

They do burn up quick and start to crumble. I've tried spraying them in white grease to try and stop them drying out but it didn't make any difference. Plus, as I said earlier, for �18 it definately makes a smoother ride.

They don't look that bad mate :dontknow:

The loose bits you are seeing are just the small bits of rubber which connected the 2 halves of each set, nothing to worry about. I certainly wouldn't think about replacing these yet.

When you squeeze a new pair and compair them to an old pair you can tell the difference. As they burn up they loose their springyness and start to go to dust. The real test is to put your bike in gear with the engine swiched off and stand next to the bike and rock it back and forth. You can watch the wheel move and the sprocket doesn't and also see how much slack there is. With a new set in it's nice and spongy. With an old set it knocks and gives you the symptoms of a slack chain.

Hi Kev,

Would you please post a picture or 2 of the belt(padding) in place nect time you have the rear wheel off.

No point me experimenting when you have it down to an art.

Thanks

Paul

I wont be able to do it for a while as my current bike is been traded in 2 hours time & I pick up the new one.

Basicly add rubber strips between the rubber dampeners & the wheel hub, until the sprocket hub is nice & tight.

Just to add my 2 pennys worth, the cush drive manicmic pictured are very much what mine looked like but being a cheapo i just stuck some extra rubber in and it worked ok for me. Took all of about 10mins. The rubbers will need replaced sometime but i dont think every time you change a rear tyre is right maybe ever 12k miles or so.

It's all down to how smooth a ride you want. I change mine every 3000 - 3500 miles and considering how much time and money I've spent trying to get the smoothest ride possible I don't think another �18 is gonna break the bank to keep a smooth ride.

Keep in mind that a good set of cush drives will make all the other bits last longer. ie, rear tyre, gearbox, chain.

Also, I was advised by a bike mechanic to change them each time and believe me, he's right. It makes soooo much difference.

Why buy new, get an old inner tube from your dealer and fill the gaps with that. It's not just that you get a smoother drive it's just kinder to your gearbox and final drive which should ultimately save you money.

Just put new rubbers in when you sell the bike. My first rubbers where replaced under warranty after 900 miles, which was a totally silly milage. Have done 7000 miles in 9 months so work that one out.

Inner tube works great. Recommend using blackboard chalk ot talc as a dry lubricant to help assembly. WD40 works but its a bit messy.

It all depends on how much you appreciate your bike.

I don't do cheap bodge. I do proper.

I understand that �18 is not that much to pay for a set of crush drive rubbers, but when you add that on ever time you change a tyre, add it up and you are coming very near a sports tyre price which uses alot more rubber to be made.

Yamaha have designed them to be replaced because the quicker the wear out the more people will buy = more profit for them. Also because with a big single you need something that wears out more and gets replaced, crush drives compaired to chains, spockets etc are cheap.

My dads got a honda varadero 1000, and i looked at his crush drives after 15k miles and they look brand new. Yes his bike is a v twin but it makes a hell of alot of torque and it doesnt get an easy life, mostly sunny sunday blasts or fulled loaded up touring.

But everyone has there own opinion on what should be done

cush drive
 

Had tyre fitted when bike done just under 2000, cush drives all in bits. Yamaha done them under warranty without any question. (the guy in service agreed they are **** and should last longer)

It's fair enough to have an opinion on what should be done but it's fairer to tell people a fact rather than something that's made up.

I've had people on here doubt me before on this subject and then they have gone to see their own bike mechanic only to be told that their cush drives have had it. I'm just doing people a favour and passing on my experience as I was quite taken back with the improvement it makes.

I recently bought a new set of chain/spockets and I had in mind to buy new dumpers as I have never changed the original ones(35200km...)
All that till i found this post ang glad that today I couldn't buy the dumpers because my dealer was closhed(lucky me!!!)
Inner tube for me please(New dumpers= 30euros)

cush drive
 

well i use wellyboot wall rubber!!!!!! shock horror, let those who wana do a 'proper job' do it and those who wana use their noddle carry on defo no need for every 3000 though. happy new year

Well reading this has put my mind at rest.

I was getting a bit twitchy after only 2500miles and all that play.

I am normal.

Welly boot rubber eh, I like your thinking, wonder where the missus left hers.

Kev, do you pack the inner tube on the leading surface or the trailing surface? i.e if you look at the hub from the outside would the inner tube go towards the back or front.

So on drive is all the pressure on the inner tube?

Hope this makes sense ?