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-   -   Time For A New Chain & Sprocket Kit ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=3477)

CaptMoto 25-07-07 11:12

Steve, I've just learnt this recently from AJT660, apparently modern chains don't have a split pin anymore, meaning not one you can open and close frequently. Rather they come open with pin that once fitted in place with the tool mentioned above, they can't be opened anymore, so that means when replacing modern chains, these need to be cut, with an angle grinder or other chopping device. (this according to AJT660 Alan)

Cheers

midlife crisis 25-07-07 11:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptMoto
Steve, I've just learnt this recently from AJT660, apparently modern chains don't have a split pin anymore, meaning not one you can open and close frequently. Rather they come open with pin that once fitted in place with the tool mentioned above, they can't be opened anymore, so that means when replacing modern chains, these need to be cut, with an angle grinder or other chopping device. (this according to AJT660 Alan)

Cheers

Ah! So what's the solution? Do I need a whole new chain already? This one (although I never had much faith in it's quality � it was a quick solution to a suprise problem on my recent trip) has only been on there for under 2k miles.... I'd be loathed to have to fork out for new chain already. :eusa_boohoo:

I'd like to know more about chains in general though, it looks such a simple concept that I'm sure I should have a better grasp on it than merely lubing them regularly.

CaptMoto 25-07-07 11:23

try this test.
Adjust the chjain to the correct slack and then see if you can pull it away from the rear sprocket, if you can, then the chain is worn, also does it flow freely around or does it form little V's meaning the links stick and not extend freely? that is another sign of badness cause I would expect it does that since it jumped off your sprockets on the stella alpina trip.

midlife crisis 25-07-07 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptMoto
try this test.
Adjust the chjain to the correct slack and then see if you can pull it away from the rear sprocket, if you can, then the chain is worn, also does it flow freely around or does it form little V's meaning the links stick and not extend freely? that is another sign of badness cause I would expect it does that since it jumped off your sprockets on the stella alpina trip.

I have adjusted it to the maximum adjustness. It is uncomfortably close to pulling free from the rear sprocket (but not quite there) and there is no 'V's forming although it does look like it's hanging when I'm not sat on it. It didn't jump off the sprocket on my Stella Trip � it snapped, this chain is the replacement I managed to source en-route.

If I were to cut a link and make it shorter, would I have to cut two and then source a new joining pin?

CaptMoto 25-07-07 11:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by midlife crisis
I have adjusted it to the maximum adjustness. It is uncomfortably close to pulling free from the rear sprocket (but not quite there) and there is no 'V's forming although it does look like it's hanging when I'm not sat on it. It didn't jump off the sprocket on my Stella Trip � it snapped, this chain is the replacement I managed to source en-route.

If I were to cut a link and make it shorter, would I have to cut two and then source a new joining pin?

Not sure Kev might know that detail.

motonacio 25-07-07 11:54

It is possible to drill two pins out from consecutive links if you have a drill stand and vice. You would then need to get a new pin and 'rivet' it to rejoin. Remember the 'rivetting' is not to expand the pin inside the link connection as with normal rivets but to 'round' the end to form a burr over which the link side cannot pass. That is why a special tool is used and a special pin with 'hard' length and 'soft' ends to be peened.

If you are not comfortable with this some engineering shops will do it.

Kev 25-07-07 12:09

You would be a lucky man if you could drill a chain link.

If you want to make your chain shorter, find the rivet link on the chain & grind off the heads. Remove as many links as you need & make sure the wheel is all the way forward in adjustment. Renew the rivet link.

One thing I have learned in life, buy the strongest chain you can & no 2 chains are the same, you get what you pay for. I replaced my chain & sprockets the other day & used a RK Chain 520 GXW Gold (XW Ring) chain cost over 100 Pounds

ManicMic 25-07-07 12:14

If you can pull the chain away from the sprocket and only done 2000 miles with it then I would say you have the wrong chain on the bike.

I'm no expert though but as you live in Surrey you could try my mechanical friend Kev in Woking who has his own bike garage. Try calling him. 01483 751828 Best time today would be this afternoon as he's out at the moment re-stocking. He might even do it for ya. Can't see him charging too much as I've watched him change a chain in a couple of minutes.

I'm booked in for this Saturday as he's giving my bike a service. If he could book you in then we could meet up and also oggle at the 700 Raptor he's getting in.

He'll put you straight for sure. Don't forget to say Mike sent ya.

Kev 25-07-07 12:25

Somethings to read up on chains. As I said not all chains are the same.

http://www.rk-excel.co.jp/english/te...pec_200406.gif

http://www.rk-excel.co.jp/english/tech1.htm

http://www.rk-excel.co.jp/english/tech6.htm

http://www.rk-excel.co.jp/english/tech5.htm

Tony660x 25-07-07 13:34

Guys I am glad we started this thread. For such a basic or you would think basic item like a bike chain I have certainly learned loads of info on this. As Kev says I think I am gonna get the best chain I can afford just like the Capt as well, if these things fail then you are stranded and seriously p****ed off! Let alone any resultant off you may have from the potential lock up...


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