Is your filter actually a K&N or is it the OEM, cause if it is, you can't clean or regrease that one, you or your mechaninc will change the OEM every 6000 miles service. The oil residues in the air box are a normal thing, you will notice that there is a drip pipe for that at the bottom (under it to be precise) of the air box for this purpose.

No Capt, I have the OEM filter on my X, but I have a K&N on my car and have the cleaning/oiling agents for it, that's why I asked. Is the filter below OEM or aftermarket? I've got a worrying feeling that mine has been put in the wrong way around? That is the side that metal mesh grill is facing on mine....

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...k-DSCF0166.jpg

Wow, normally, due to the triangular shape of the slot there should be no way to fit this filter the wrong way around, unless someone forced it in that way. The metal grill should face inwards. Right, as I said before if your filter is the OEM then you can't do anything about it, as it is a disposable paper based one and if you treat it with grease you might only damage it. Best thing you can do with it for the time being is tap it and try to clean it with an air compressor, not too close to the paper, but I do suggest you get a proper K&N or DNA from our friends at CCC (who will sell you stage 1 and 2 at a discounted price).

Have a look at this thread Denny

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=165

Just to eradicte my paranoia, this is the right way around aint it?

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/856/pict3840rs4.jpg

What does the CCC stage 1 or 2 consist of Capt? My next mod was probably getting a Pipercross filter locally and ordering a DNA racing air box cover from OTR :toothy6:

*edit* looks like CCC are revamping their website

Stage 1 filter will only fit in one way.

Stage 1 & 2 filters. http://www.dnafilters.com/newsdetails.asp?newsid=30

Sorry to drag this one on and go slightly off topic, I'm about to order a Pipercross filter locally a DNA racing air box cover from OTR.

However it seems the DNA site recommends getting a power commander to notice any change in those said mods. Is this the case, I already have CCC cans & the snorkel out, will I not benefit with the filter & DNA cover?

fanks guys :la:

The filters & air box mod will produce the most power gain of all the mods. I would also recommend a Power Commander or other type of fuelling device with all your mods.

Have a read here.

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=630

Advanced mods, for the more technical minded.

8/ Fuel devices.

I've been pondering whether I should do the air box mod you've detailed, but one thing that worries me is water being sucked into the engine through the holes resulting in hydrolock. I know the filter is there to prevent that but there is only so much that it can hold back, even with the snorkel removed I'm concerned as there has always been water around that area when washing the bike?

I have a K&N cold air intake on my 306gti which sits very low to the floor, and I've heard some horror tales of hydrolock. IIRC the cone filter needs to be fully submersed up to %30 for water to seep in.

Or am I just being overly pedantic?!

All I can say is the air box is made up in 3 stages & the bottom stage is designed to store water & to stop it splashing up on the main filter.

If you are using a K&N or DNA stage 1 filter they are oil based filters & will not let in water through, unless they are completly submerged in water.

I have sold over 40 fuel air box mods & have never had any problem, I have run with this set up for nearly 2 years & have not had a problem. Water does enter the air box when I wash my bike, but it runs out the drain. I have ridden in heavy rain & have found once removing my seat that there is no water on top of the air box.

In the end it's up to you.