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Tobers' Tenere Strip & Rebuild
Hi all - just joined after buying a rather well known Tenere that has just completed a massive TET journey and has previously enjoyed numerous enduros.
The bike has about 28k miles on it, and needless to say it requires some care & attention after such a long offroad trip. With previous owner Ian after he completed his TET ride. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/...ea492528_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/...53b64f59_c.jpg It has been extensively modified with a WR450 front end, 18" rear wheel, extended dash, Akra exhaust, uprated rear suspension, onboard air compressor etc etc etc etc. Just what I was looking for, and easier than spending big ���s on a newer bike and then having to add all the mods. It's going to be my go-anywhere bike as I have got a bit of wanderlust and want to get off tarmac (my other bike is a 2015 Ducati Multistrada - daren't fiddle with it or do anything remotely challenging off road). I also want a hobby bike to fiddle with. I need to register it as a UK bike before I can ride it, so first thing is a strip and rebuild to service it and get it through its first MoT test. I'll document things in this thread as I go along. The bike was involved in an accident when another rider hit the back of it, and the extended sidestand foot punctured the swingarm, so the first job is to strip the rear end and get that fixed. But first, a clean so I could figure out what is under the caked on dirt. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/...b70b6249_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/...6e9793d3_c.jpg Some time later... https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/...aca874d7_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...b454f842_c.jpg Not looking too shabby. |
Next job, now I can actually find the nuts & bolts, is to remove the rear swingarm and get it repaired.
There's an excellent guide for rear swingarm and suspension removal here. Wheel off https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...9b276373_c.jpg Inner-tube cush drive mod in place https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/...3bd670d2_c.jpg Big bar for the swingarm removal after undoing the dogbones. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/...2e35cf24_c.jpg Super condition underneath it all. Shows the value of good prep. No corrosion, everything well greased. Nothing seized. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...e46ba8db_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/...0f11cfb8_c.jpg Swingarm off in about 30 minutes. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/...9f1ef502_c.jpg The damage that needs cutting out and welding. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4490/...2618edf5_c.jpg Cleaned https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/...719e7e28_c.jpg The swingarm is now with a metalworks firm nearby who will do the repair for about �200. A new swingarm is �830. Next up is the rear brake for a clean & service, and then the rear shock and linkage assembly to be removed, cleaned, serviced and replaced. |
As well as the swingarm being damaged in the accident, the rear plastics were shot and a jerry-rigged repair had been done so the journey could continue. I wanted to strip the rear plastics to see the extent of the repairs required.
Still full of dust https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4455/...ca64751d_c.jpg Not too bad really https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...d49df782_c.jpg It's just the rear number plate holder that is smashed. It's in the bin now. I'll just screw the new plate to the remaining mountings and figure out how to rig a number plate light. Still need to check the rear light mounting. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4503/...96ba28da_c.jpg |
Firstly welcome to the forum. I'd seen the post on the TET Facebook page, glad to see you made it over to the forum.
Good luck with the strip, clean and repair and hopefully won't be long until you can get out and enjoy the tenere in its natural habitat. You certainly will have a great bike by the looks of all the toys and mods on it. |
Welcome to the forum! Great looking bike! ...by the way how are you posting your photos. ...? Steve
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Thanks!
I'm uploading my pics to Flickr and linking from there. Can anyone recommend a tail tidy? Seems I'll need to replace the rear plastics so might as well do a proper job as currently there is no number plate light (= MoT fail). EDIT > looks like you don't need a rear number plate light to pass the MoT. Will have another look at the broken bits to see what can be salvaged. |
You can get some neat stainless number plate bolts that have an led light in the bolt...it's a neat solution I've used on my Tenere. Steve
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F362127697439 Might get me some of those boyos |
Further progress as I stripped off the rear suspension linkage and shock while the swingarm is away being repaired. Something nasty lurks therein.
To start with, the rear linkage looked like this: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/...7d78bc23_c.jpg Now removed from the bike https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/...93152a86_c.jpg Cleaned up. Note the grease nipples added by the previous owner. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/...77da3d05_c.jpg Some wear evident on the arm. Oil seal fell off on disassembly - note that the bearing is either not pressed in properly or has worked its way out. Grease was rather washed out and horrible on this pivot. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...35cee4b9_c.jpg Needle rollers rather pitted (from the same pivot as above) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...e3015151_c.jpg Rather more nasty wear on the arm https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/...a80e6bdc_c.jpg And a lot worse here - maybe 1mm of material has been ground off at the connection with the rear shock bracket. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/...3c699abf_c.jpg So, new bearings and seals are on their way. I'm not sure what to do about the wear on the arm. They are quite pricey to replace. I may just shim it for the time being as the idea isn't to spend a lot of money on the bike - just get it MoTd so I can register it. I can sort these bits out later. |
Next up - removing the shock. To do this, the exhaust needs to be taken off to get at the top shock bolt - no other way to do it. Thankfully, with most of the back of the bike in bits it's not that hard to remove.
After removing the rear clamp, the plastic panel and metal shroud come off next https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/...1e6212cb_c.jpg Undo this hidden bolt that holds the exhaust to the frame https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4469/...ce78f543_c.jpg Some WD50 on the front clamps and a bit of wiggling and off she came https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...b4d5ea66_c.jpg Shock top bolt was rather tight. WD40 and a big bar sorted it out. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/...6798ac76_c.jpg Here it is - looks like the OEM Sachs unit with a replacement spring https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/...3a82a559_c.jpg Cleaned up. I always like to get everything clean as soon as I take it off so I can work out what I'm dealing with. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4490/...6b71552d_c.jpg This is the bit that has ground out the alloy of the linkage arm in the previous post https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...6dbcf2e0_c.jpg See... https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4455/...0a407261_c.jpg This is the play resulting from the wear on the arm. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/...883b96ab_o.gif So, what to do with the arm. Replacement is obvious, but I might just make a shim to take up the play to get the bike through it's MoT. There don't seem to be any used arms around anywhere (part number 11D-F217A-00 - let me know if you have a spare!!). I'll ponder it while I wait for the swingarm to come back. |
Amazingly, my swingarm is already fixed. I went over to Leedsheath in Guildford to pick it up and leave them with �200 of my hard earned pounds.
Before: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4490/...2618edf5_c.jpg Here it is - they cut out the hole and welded in a new piece, then ground it into shape. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/...f8511597_c.jpg Close up - the edges are a bit "sharp" and the grinder marks need buffing out, and the heat bubbles from the welding need smoothing. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...9fd53634_c.jpg After some wet & dry sanding to smooth things over and make it match the original. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/...91a98862_c.jpg Filling some of the small hollows left from the repair. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...f1cb910e_c.jpg Primer and satin black https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...e0a03da8_c.jpg After some shabby-chic "distressing" to avoid it looking repaired. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...0fb4ec69_c.jpg Most excellent. Just waiting for my new bearings and seals to arrive and I can reassemble the rear end of the bike and start working on the oily bit in the middle. |
Great work, good to see such a detailed rebuid! keep it on! :popcorn2: :)
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Nice going there. Looking forward to the end result.
It looks like you're enjoying it as much as us following it :icon_wink: |
Today's update is relatively brief, but incredibly successful.
You remember the wear in the elbow joint pivot in the linkage. The price of a new elbow is about �145. Stuff that for a game of soldiers. I ventured out to the amazing Margnor, a small shop on a housing estate near Guildford that only sells nuts and bolts. It is amazing. You can wander in there with any random rusty fastener from some old bike or car, show it to a chap, who will pop into the back and bring out a brand new one that is identical. Like I said, amazing. So I wandered in this morning with my suspension linkage, and a couple of measurements later I had a metal washer that was EXACTLY the right size to replace the work area on the linkage, and for the spindle to fit through. I mean EXACTLY, so the fork of the shock mounting now fits snugly, but with fluid movement when tight and no free play. The pivot spindle sticks out just far enough to ensure the elbow doesn't bind with the shock fork. How spooky. So rather than spending �145, I spent �0.08 and I now have a play-free linkage again. Just waiting for bearings and seals now and I can then put it all back together at the back. I'm sure the washer will wear out at some point, when I'll then replace the whole elbow joint. But for now the task is to get it MoT'd and then registered so I can actually ride the bloody thing. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/...1e553b98_c.jpg Look!!! Exact fit!!! I am very excited by this. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/...b4284e6e_c.jpg Installed https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/...3d638fbb_c.jpg Next...rear rack removal (I keep banging my head on it when under the back of the bike), bearing & seal fitting, and reassembly. |
Today I've mainly been smashing the Barkbuster handguards back into shape with a mallet. This does not make for good pictures as I don't have spare hands when doing the smashing. Blimey they are robust. More smashing still to do while I wait for my bearings & seals.
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Great results. ...looking good! . Did you add the grease nipple. ...or was it there. ..? Steve
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Next is the challenge to convert a pile of broken pieces of plastic and bent metal into a viable tail piece. The bike was hit from behind my another bike, smashing the tail end, so that needed sorting out before any MoT could be done. I had a random pile of bits after I threw away everything that was too smashed up.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...d87c7b98_z.jpg The light and indicator still worked so I elected to construct a "Tobers Tail Tidy" from the pieces. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/...fee4d487_c.jpg Some Dremelling required https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/...f0a02cea_c.jpg This piece weighs loads. I really wanted to get rid of it. It's some sort of welded and cast pig iron as far as I can see - really unnecessary. Unfortunately I had to use it. I may substitute it for a proper tail tidy in the future, but the whole approach here is to minimise spend. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4503/...1bbc5157_c.jpg A hot glue gun and some cunningly positioned bolts got me this far https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...dca3d0bc_c.jpg I needed somewhere for the indicators to go, so fashioned an indicator bracket from some ally strip I had lying around. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...3b329b3a_c.jpg A bit of jiggery-pokery later, and we have this, which looks rather smart. Note the swingarm and rear end is all back on too - more of that shortly. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...e75295de_c.jpg I removed everything that is unnecessary from the back end for the time being, including the other plastics, grab rails, cowlings, rear footpegs, and Roman's customised pannier racks. This saves considerable weight, and also looks quite slick I think. Just needs a number plate now... https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/...6ea9cc33_c.jpg |
Now some details on the rear suspension/linkage rebuild. I finally received a little bag of bearings and bits from Woking Yamaha, so I could get to work. Having cleaned out the linkage elbow joint already, it was all set to get the new bearings and seals in.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/...1556481a_c.jpg Thankfully it wasn't overly tricky https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...063acbdb_c.jpg And was all ready to reassemble along with the repaired swingarm. Everything greased up, using grease that didn't stink unlike the stuff that was in there which was the most foul smelling grease I've ever encountered - it stank the whole house out. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...17fdc96f_z.jpg Just for the record, a Snap-on electric torque wrench is a wonderful thing. I don't have many Snap-on tools, but the ones I have are lovely. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/...95a0096b_c.jpg Swingarm back on - remembered to put the left side through the chain when reassembling! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/...aeab5776_c.jpg Reconnecting the custom-made Akrapovic exhaust. Note to self - don't install the wheel then try and install the exhaust! Do it the other way around! At least I've had some wheel changing practice. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/...646010e0_c.jpg All back together and torqued up. I took the opportunity to service the rear brake as well - not much needed doing bar a quick clean. The pads are good, fluid looks fine. Happy days. Then it wouldn't start. It cranked, but didn't fire. Crank crank crank crank. Nothing doing. WFT? Had I inadvertantly unplugged something? Unlikely but possible. I checked all connections and fuses - all looked OK. I put the battery on to charge while I checked some other stuff. Tried again - crank crank crank crank, but it still wouldn't fire. I was about to pull the plug out and check for a spark when I remembered that my old XT1200Z Super Tenere would do this from time to time, after being left static for a bit. The solution was to fully open the throttle and crank it until it fired ("WOT" or "wide open throttle" starting). I did this and it coughed into life and was then perfect again as though nothing had happened. I had a quick ride up and down my road to bounce the suspension and check everything was ship shape, which it was. Now the back of the bike is back together, next job is an oil, filter and spark plug change, before moving onto the front and then an MoT. I have new brake and clutch levers coming as well (the existing ones are now "shorties" after crashing and snapping). I suspect I'll need new throttle and clutch cables too as the existing ones are rather grungy. |
Great job....it's been really interesting following the re-build. Be good to see it back on the road! Steve
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Starting
What a brill rebuild, great photos, mine has the same starting issues if left a while, any thoughts on possible cure, it's defo fuel related as I've a good spark. Cheers steve
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My new brake and clutch levers arrived today. Very good quality and cheap as chips at �38 for the pair. They are folding, extendable levers. You can get them on
eBay here.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/...8b960e1b_z.jpg Fitting the clutch side is dead easy. Just loosen off the clutch adjustment nuts down by the clutch housing to get some free play at the lever, loosen the bolts clamping the lever to the handlebar to get some space to work, then undo the 10mm nut and bolt. The old lever is easily released from the cable, and the new one put on and fitted. A quick fettling of the adjustment nuts again and it's sorted. 10 minutes tops. Much smoother now. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/...1605d2e7_c.jpg The brake side was a bit of a different kettle of fish. I'd forgotten that the master cylinder had been updated from the Tenere stock one to a (probably) YZ250 to match the single disk setup on the upsidedown forks. So my shiny new lever doesn't fit. This is sad as they are lovely. I have asked them if they do one to match the master cylinder as nothing is showing on their web site. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4475/...b37b6a90_c.jpg MoT day is on Thursday!!! How exciting and scary. Who knows what it will turn up. At least I get to ride the bike to the MoT centre, which will be my first ride on it. |
Best of luck with the Mot. ...should be fine after all that hard work! Let me know if you want to celebrate with a ride down to Goodwood or up to Box Hill. Steve
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More news today.
I spent a small amount of time changing the screen screws back to the black plastic ones from the various assorted mixed metal bolts, and replacing some of the rubber-grommet nuts that go behind the screen that had come off. Plastic screws snap off in the event of a prang, saving the screen from breaking. I have a bunch of spare screws in case this happens - annoyingly you have to buy them individually. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/...edcc0e08_c.jpg With the MoT teat (government road-worthiness test) booked for this morning, I spent some time going over the bike, and found some play at the front end when bouncing the front suspension. Fearing the steering head bearings being worn out, I was a bit concerned (definite MoT failure). Some fiddling revealed the top yolk nut that holds the forks to the frame was loose. Not just untorqued a bit, but actually loose and about a turn or two unscrewed! Eeek! A quick bit of spannering got that all tightened up again and the play had gone. Next, the dreaded MoT. I was very nervous about this as I just did not know how the bike would do after its rather arduous recent history. Guildford Tyre Centre are my go-to place. Top blokes in there, very approachable, and they know their stuff. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...98d356b3_c.jpg The tester had a good look over the bike and seemed most impressed. I gave him some of the history and told him about the TET, then retreated upstairs to watch nervously on the monitor as he did numerous things and wrote a lot on a clipboard. A long to-do list of fixes was surely coming my way. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...2c7dd0bf_c.jpg But no!!! It passed first time. Amazing!!!!! You could have knocked me down with a feather. Seems that all the fettling had been worthwhile after all. I can now submit the registration docs and get the bike taxed, registered and get a number plate. Due to a law that allows you to drive/ride an untaxed/unregistered vehicle to/from an MoT station for a pre-booked MoT, I took advantage on my return home to do a quick bit of off-road green laning. This little ride out and back was my first proper ride on the bike and it took a bit of getting used to. It's rather different from my Ducati Multistrada. It's actually lovely to ride more slowly and pootle along. It handled the off-road bit very nicely as you'd expect. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4503/...29f30c6d_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/...d76c9996_c.jpg Next on the list - throttle cable and linkage which is very stiff, oil and filter change, air filter change, spark plug change, general look over the engine, before moving on to the front end. |
i think you'll the 'rule' to be within reasonable travel to and from the mot station and home address...at least thats what i was told when i was leaving the mot station recently on a planned 34 mile detour...
Good news tho on the pass.You going down the DNA filter route?.stage1,2 or 3?.. |
It's already been de-snorkelled and has some after market sort of air filter that I'm about to replace - I'll figure out what it is when I get it out. That will do for the time being - other stuff needs sorting first.
Which brings me on to the throttle cable. The throttle is really stiff. I like a light throttle, and there's nothing more annoying and tiring than fighting a recalcitrant grip when trying to get delicate control of the bike. So, time to replace the throttle cable. First, get the tank loose so I could move it about and fiddle underneath it. Grey side plastics off, long bolts under the sides of the tank removed, stirrup at the back of the tank removed. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/...39508301_c.jpg Undo the two screws underneath the switch gear https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...2b21fedb_c.jpg Eeeuuuw it's all full of crap https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/...4f220ce9_c.jpg I suspect this broken bit, plus wear and tear of the curved plastic surround, is what is causing the friction in the cable run. This is on the throttle opening cable. The Tenere has a two cable setup, one to open, one to make sure it closes if the return spring on the throttle body fails. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4509/...cf9381b2_c.jpg Remove another screw that is revealed once the bottom cover comes off, and you can then take the switch gear housing apart, remove the grip and expose the top end of the cables for removal. More crap in here is going to cause more friction so this will be thoroughly cleaned and lubed with dry teflon lube in a bit. Don't want to use grease/oil as it'll attract more dust & bits of crap. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/...4593a703_c.jpg Loosen the nut holding the cable into the housing at the throttle body end. I'm just replacing the opening cable at this stage, as that's where the graunchiness is coming from, and I don't want to spend money if I can avoid it. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/...f5c49ac4_c.jpg Close-up of the broken bit. New cable ordered from Fowlers for �27. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...8e6377b4_c.jpg |
Very nice write up about the whole job on a bike. Nice that you are taking time for documenting it. Those things are not done in a minute.
Very happy you made it through the MOT. Uff must have been mental to wait for aproval, considering all the upgrades... not to mention 18" rear, AKRA exhaust or complete front end swap... ufff. Congrats! Great job! Just an info: clutch cable was changed this year and is practicaly new. So I would say you can save money for that. |
i recently stripped my throttle housing down and found that the actual tube part of the grip that actually rotates was fouling on a build up of rust and crud from the handlebars..
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And as you like a smooth throttle. ...do the 'free' throttle mod....there's a thread on the forum somewhere. It basically involves making a groove two or three mil deep and twenty ish mil long on the plastic the cable sits on . Just the 'pull' cable. The cable sits in this groove and it transforms the throttle action. Best way to make the groove is with a drill bit using it on its side and just gently does it! ! Bike looks great, glad you got the MOT. Steve
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Ah-ha - this is the throttle mod thread. Makes sense to me - creating a smaller circumference at small throttle openings to smooth things out - much like some of the grips with different cam profiles.
https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?p=154983 |
Fowlers very efficiently delivered me a new opening throttle cable the day after I ordered it. Time to fit it and see if the throttle action is improved. I decided to leave the closing cable as is, as it felt smooth and it doesn't carry much load anyway.
Firstly, give everything a good clean. Lots of dust, gunk and detritus in the throttle cable housing https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...12ee770a_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...45170965_c.jpg I did the throttle tube mod thing while I was at it. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...959252f6_c.jpg New cable is located at the throttle body first https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...b929b944_c.jpg And then the grip end can be put in place, with the grip loose on the bars it is possible to rotate it to slot the cable ends in place (this is the end of the closing cable as I'm sure you realised) https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...6454ddd7_c.jpg I usually keep all my nuts and bolts in a labelled bag for each major component I am taking apart. Easier for putting it all back together! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/...4ca33b19_c.jpg Grip switchgear all back together after some dry teflon lube to keep everything slick and smooth. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...700699c0_c.jpg And the result is EXCELLENT. A light, smooth throttle. Just what the doctor ordered. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...1c0fc945_o.gif |
Next job - take the front end apart and see why the temp gauge flickers and I wanted to see what else was lurking under there, and figure out why the plastics were loose and wobbly.
Side pods and screen off https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...1cfc85e5_c.jpg Remove the dash cover. Some suspicious gaffer tape in there. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...c9ceb98d_c.jpg Lots and lots of glue holding broken fasteners on as I expected https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/...00477194_c.jpg Various broken bits. Longer term I may figure out a revised front fairing that is less brittle. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/...9bd5afc2_c.jpg No volts here at this accessory socket. Some wiring checking needed. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...4190d81c_c.jpg This is why the temp gauge was unhappy. Thing is, when you are out and about on the trails you fix stuff whatever way you can. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...5a013b69_c.jpg Next, I'll have to replace a bunch of bad connectors with good ones, hot glue a number of fasteners for the fairing, and generally check all the wiring. |
The list goes on! ....but well worth doing a proper job. Steve
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Back again after interruptions caused by having to earn a living.
Good news - my Certificate of Conformity has now arrived from Yamaha so I can get the bike registered. Excellent! Yesterday's exercise was an air filter and spark plug change, and more bodywork repairs. I have decided that the plastic bodywork that the front indicators plug in to is surplus to requirements. It doesn't seem to do much other than hold the indicators on, and only serves to break the fastening lugs on the screen mount when the bike falls over. Plus, due to the remodelled headlight & dash holding unit, some aluminium plates had to be used to hold them on. So I've decided to not refit those panels, and move the indicators to a new position. Means it looks a bit "unfinished" but it's a bit less weight and less stuff to get broken. I also need to relocate the compressor switch and the accessory socket. Before: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...159b81f4_c.jpg After: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...f06180b7_c.jpg Unnecessary junk https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/...5e75d58f_z.jpg I might change my mind, or at least make the top sides of the tank look less "temporary". Anyhow, then on to the air filter change. The bike has an oiled air filter which was well dosed with trail sand and dust from its TET adventures. Cleverly, Roman had stored a spare one where the snorkel usually goes, so I did a swap. Relatively easy job if a bit sticky and messy. 4 screws and the filter holder collar comes off, then pull out the filter and cage to end up with something like this: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/...55ea2de0_z.jpg New one in place after a bit of squeezing https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4582/...dbba8410_z.jpg Then on to the spark plug. I have a nice spark plug socket which fits on easily and is just about accessible https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4538/...fe24111b_c.jpg The old plug looked pretty good actually. Not white or oily, so the bike seems to be running a decent mixture. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...5b23ee0a_z.jpg |
I can hear the engine breathing a sigh of relief to have that filter changed.....!, one thing I would say is those placcy panels do a good job of protecting the tank etc.....I've dropped mine a few times and they have saved the day. I did relocate my indicators though. Steve
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I thought the lower grey panels do the main job of crash protection. I'll have to look again at the help offered by the upper ones...
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They do a little more than provide a base for the indicators. The entire cockpit is mounted on a piece of 10mm (ish!) folded round bar, when you add anything to the cockpit area it puts a strain on this bar, they have been known to break. The side panels with the indicators are a part of the structural support for the cockpit. |
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