And as you like a smooth throttle. ...do the 'free' throttle mod....there's a thread on the forum somewhere. It basically involves making a groove two or three mil deep and twenty ish mil long on the plastic the cable sits on . Just the 'pull' cable. The cable sits in this groove and it transforms the throttle action. Best way to make the groove is with a drill bit using it on its side and just gently does it! ! Bike looks great, glad you got the MOT. Steve

Thanks! Clutch cable is good, and the action is smooth with the new lever, a clean and some lube on the lever pivot.

Oooh - interesting. Will have a look see. Thanks very much for the tip.

Ah-ha - this is the throttle mod thread. Makes sense to me - creating a smaller circumference at small throttle openings to smooth things out - much like some of the grips with different cam profiles.

https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?p=154983

Fowlers very efficiently delivered me a new opening throttle cable the day after I ordered it. Time to fit it and see if the throttle action is improved. I decided to leave the closing cable as is, as it felt smooth and it doesn't carry much load anyway.

Firstly, give everything a good clean. Lots of dust, gunk and detritus in the throttle cable housing

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...12ee770a_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...45170965_c.jpg

I did the throttle tube mod thing while I was at it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...959252f6_c.jpg

New cable is located at the throttle body first

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...b929b944_c.jpg

And then the grip end can be put in place, with the grip loose on the bars it is possible to rotate it to slot the cable ends in place (this is the end of the closing cable as I'm sure you realised)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...6454ddd7_c.jpg

I usually keep all my nuts and bolts in a labelled bag for each major component I am taking apart. Easier for putting it all back together!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/...4ca33b19_c.jpg

Grip switchgear all back together after some dry teflon lube to keep everything slick and smooth.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...700699c0_c.jpg

And the result is EXCELLENT. A light, smooth throttle. Just what the doctor ordered.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...1c0fc945_o.gif

Next job - take the front end apart and see why the temp gauge flickers and I wanted to see what else was lurking under there, and figure out why the plastics were loose and wobbly.

Side pods and screen off

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...1cfc85e5_c.jpg

Remove the dash cover. Some suspicious gaffer tape in there.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...c9ceb98d_c.jpg

Lots and lots of glue holding broken fasteners on as I expected

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/...00477194_c.jpg

Various broken bits. Longer term I may figure out a revised front fairing that is less brittle.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/...9bd5afc2_c.jpg

No volts here at this accessory socket. Some wiring checking needed.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...4190d81c_c.jpg

This is why the temp gauge was unhappy. Thing is, when you are out and about on the trails you fix stuff whatever way you can.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...5a013b69_c.jpg

Next, I'll have to replace a bunch of bad connectors with good ones, hot glue a number of fasteners for the fairing, and generally check all the wiring.

The list goes on! ....but well worth doing a proper job. Steve

Back again after interruptions caused by having to earn a living.

Good news - my Certificate of Conformity has now arrived from Yamaha so I can get the bike registered. Excellent!

Yesterday's exercise was an air filter and spark plug change, and more bodywork repairs.

I have decided that the plastic bodywork that the front indicators plug in to is surplus to requirements. It doesn't seem to do much other than hold the indicators on, and only serves to break the fastening lugs on the screen mount when the bike falls over. Plus, due to the remodelled headlight & dash holding unit, some aluminium plates had to be used to hold them on. So I've decided to not refit those panels, and move the indicators to a new position.

Means it looks a bit "unfinished" but it's a bit less weight and less stuff to get broken. I also need to relocate the compressor switch and the accessory socket.

Before:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...159b81f4_c.jpg

After:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...f06180b7_c.jpg

Unnecessary junk

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/...5e75d58f_z.jpg

I might change my mind, or at least make the top sides of the tank look less "temporary".

Anyhow, then on to the air filter change. The bike has an oiled air filter which was well dosed with trail sand and dust from its TET adventures. Cleverly, Roman had stored a spare one where the snorkel usually goes, so I did a swap. Relatively easy job if a bit sticky and messy.

4 screws and the filter holder collar comes off, then pull out the filter and cage to end up with something like this:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/...55ea2de0_z.jpg

New one in place after a bit of squeezing

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4582/...dbba8410_z.jpg

Then on to the spark plug. I have a nice spark plug socket which fits on easily and is just about accessible

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4538/...fe24111b_c.jpg

The old plug looked pretty good actually. Not white or oily, so the bike seems to be running a decent mixture.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...5b23ee0a_z.jpg

I can hear the engine breathing a sigh of relief to have that filter changed.....!, one thing I would say is those placcy panels do a good job of protecting the tank etc.....I've dropped mine a few times and they have saved the day. I did relocate my indicators though. Steve

I thought the lower grey panels do the main job of crash protection. I'll have to look again at the help offered by the upper ones...

I've never seen these break, ever... and I've seen lots of these bikes take a tumble (mine included !)

They do a little more than provide a base for the indicators. The entire cockpit is mounted on a piece of 10mm (ish!) folded round bar, when you add anything to the cockpit area it puts a strain on this bar, they have been known to break. The side panels with the indicators are a part of the structural support for the cockpit.