Tyre changing questions ..
 

Next week i plan to change the tyres on my 660z . The tyres coming off are Dunlop Trailmax .
Are the beads hard to break on the Trailmax ?
Should i renew the rim tapes and tubes at the same time ?
Tyres being fitted are TKC 80's .

Tyre changing questions ..
 

Are they the TR91 Trailmax or the ordinary block pattern ones? The TR91s are a sod to break the bead on the rear. TKCs are one of the easiest tyres I've ever removed/fitted.

Trick with the rear is to lift the bead up slightly as roll it inwards over the lip in the rim into the well; best to use a sharp lipped spoon lever for this, but be wary of the tube. For some reason the Z has a tubeless type rim design on the back which doesn't make life easy. You can also use a clamp to break the bead if you want.

No need to replace the tape or tube if they are in good condition. It is worth sorting the Cush drive rubbers though while you have the wheels out.

They are the normal block patern Trailmax ... Good point about the Cush drive rubbers ..Where's the cheapest place for them ? Wemoto ?

Yeah, Wemoto cheapest for pattern rubbers and AJ Suttion are cheapest for genuine Yamaha. I have to say that there seems to be precious little difference between how long the genuine and pattern ones last - in fact they're probably the one and the same?!

You'll be fine changing the standard Trailmax, they're pretty flexible.:smilies0944:

I changed the tyres on my Gixxer like this....



http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd84dd804.jpg








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Might work on the XT too? :dontknow:

Good way of doing it . I'll keep that in mind . Thankyou,

There are indeed many ways to skin a cat! That looks like a good method Rich, using levers and chocks to do all the work for you. :023:

Not sure how well that method would work out on roadside though! ;)

On a more serious note, it is worth trying to practice and replicate a method at home that you could use when out on the road/trail; it could help you out of an awkward situation in the long run. Where possible try and use the tools that you would have available to hand on the bike.

You could even do it in the dark, maybe get the wife to spray you with a hose, or even kneel in some dog sh!t to make the tyre changing experience as realistic as possible! :076:

Yes i'd planned to use just the tools i carry on the bike and see how i get on . I'll use other methods if the bead is very hard to break ..

Had some spare time this afternoon so i've put the front Tkc on , the only trouble i had was getting the valve back through the wheel , quite tricky ..

When out on a trail how do folk support the front of the bike to take the wheel out ?

Not sure if all bikes as the same or if anyone else has had this problem, I did post it before. I had a rear puncture so took out the tube to repair. I was baffled why the inner side was punctured and not the outside. After a bit of investigation I found the spoke nipples had little raised knobs on them and they'd worn through the rim tape and tube. I used a dremel to grind them all off. I always wrap duck tape round the rim too (cut in half) then the rim tape on top. Size ten boot and 100kg rbj has always broken beads for me. Only done once on the side of the road so far. In the garage I have a beadbraker - used for mousses on my xc.