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.: XT660.com - The #1 XT660 Resource :. ( https://www.xt660.com/index.php)
-   Electrics & Lighting ( https://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=199)
-   -   heated grips ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=21644)

rs steve 13-11-13 21:41
Done all the wiring tonight and they all work! All I have to do now is the fitting of the grips, take the tank off and run the wires from the bars to the multi plug under the seat but I think I will leave that for Sat morning as I want to use it for work to rack the running in miles up!

WeaveMcQuilt 14-11-13 00:34
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs steve (Post 194096)
...take the tank off and run the wires from the bars to the multi plug under the seat ...

I found you don't need to do this.
The wiring comes down the forward loom alongside the clutch cable, then a short leap alongside the carb to the frame near the air filter.

I pushed it through from under the seat forwards, cable tying it where I could.

Ok, it'd be a lot neater with the tank off, but seems like a lot of effort for just that...

Might as well do your valve clearances while you've got it off :D

rs steve 14-11-13 13:54
valve clearances!!!! its only done 157 miles. lol

Pleiades 14-11-13 20:44
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs steve (Post 194121)
valve clearances!!!! its only done 157 miles. lol
:smilies0966:

Take the tank off Steve. If nothing else it'll give you a bit of practice for when you might need to do it in a hurry. Also, many of the fasteners that hold it (and the grey plastics) on corrode and seize - it would be a good opportunity to Copper Slip the threads early on in the bike's life.

Particularly problematic are the ones that hold the lower plastics covering the coolant reservoir and headers. The serrated (not very) captive nuts in the inner plastic tends to strip out and need supergluing back if the fastener gets even the slightest bit stuck/sticky.

In fact it'd be a damn good idea to do treat as many threads as you can get to all over your new bike before the worst of the winter - a stitch in time saves nine and all that...

hebbo 01-12-13 15:43
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeaveMcQuilt (Post 194039)
My post from another forum:

So I bought some heated grips (well, tis the season) from www.windingroads.co.uk

Thought I'd let you know how I got on with fitting them.

This is what comes in the packag
Hi WeaveMcQuilt,

quite liked your setup and got my Symtec heated pads yesterday on the post.
I am about to do the shopping for the bits needed for the installation and have a few questions:

- The 3A fuse goes between the positive battery terminal and the relay?
- I could only find a 30A 4 Pin relay on Halfords. I guess they will do the job fine?
- I guess 5A crimps terminals (bullet and ring) will do the job?
- When you snip the tail light cable, how did you join the cable (or what you recommend to do it) that goes to the "switch live"? --> just saw in the pic that you hook the tail light and switch cable together in the bullet crimp :)

Thanks and sorry for the silly/basic questions! :003:

hebbo 11-12-13 21:02
Quote:
Originally Posted by hebbo (Post 194605)
Hi WeaveMcQuilt,

quite liked your setup and got my Symtec heated pads yesterday on the post.
I am about to do the shopping for the bits needed for the installation and have a few questions:

- The 3A fuse goes between the positive battery terminal and the relay?
- I could only find a 30A 4 Pin relay on Halfords. I guess they will do the job fine?
- I guess 5A crimps terminals (bullet and ring) will do the job?
- When you snip the tail light cable, how did you join the cable (or what you recommend to do it) that goes to the "switch live"? --> just saw in the pic that you hook the tail light and switch cable together in the bullet crimp :)

Thanks and sorry for the silly/basic questions! :003:
HI there,

I just installed the symtec heat pads. Following indications found on the forum, I ended up with a nice setup, fitting the switch button by drilling a hole in the plastic just under the dashboard. Looks great!

I have one question. I only test run the heated grips for 10 minutes, but I noticed that the clutch side provided less heat than the throttle side. Does it happens because the pad on the clutch side sits on the metal of the handlebar? Maybe I should have put the heatshrink tube that comes with the Symtec kit?

Cheers

Pleiades 11-12-13 21:32
Quote:
Originally Posted by hebbo (Post 194924)
I have one question. I only test run the heated grips for 10 minutes, but I noticed that the clutch side provided less heat than the throttle side. Does it happens because the pad on the clutch side sits on the metal of the handlebar? Maybe I should have put the heatshrink tube that comes with the Symtec kit?
Usually the reasons for the throttle side being hotter the clutch side (particularly with cheapo kits) are two-fold: Firstly the rubber is thinner on the throttle side because it has to accommodate the throttle tube. Secondly the metal of the handlebar does indeed act as a heat-sink on the clutch side.

Symtec pads though should give even heat both sides anyway, as the throttle and clutch sides are different outputs to account for the above problems. Daft question probably, but did you fit them the right way round?

And yes, with hindsight, you should have fitted the Mylar tape that you got with your kit? ;)

Of all the grips I�ve tried over the years the Symtec pads were definitely the best and most reliable, giving a good even heat.

hebbo 11-12-13 21:44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 194925)
Usually the reasons for the throttle side being hotter the clutch side (particularly with cheapo kits) are two-fold: Firstly the rubber is thinner on the throttle side because it has to accommodate the throttle tube. Secondly the metal of the handlebar does indeed act as a heat-sink on the clutch side.

Symtec pads though should give even heat both sides anyway, as the throttle and clutch sides are different outputs to account for the above problems. Daft question probably, but did you fit them the right way round?

And yes, with hindsight, you should have fitted the Mylar tape that you got with your kit? ;)

Of all the grips I�ve tried over the years the Symtec pads were definitely the best and most reliable, giving a good even heat.
Thanks Pleiades. I would say I fitted the each pad on the right side, but I will check again with the multiimeter. As you said, the resistance on each pad is different.
If the position is right, I will then have to remove the pad on the clutch and fit the heatshrink underneath the pad. The question is, will I damage the heat-pad if I take the grip off using WD40?

hebbo 12-12-13 21:05
Re-fitted today the clutch side pads, this time with the heatshrink between the handlebar and the actual heat pad. Both sides now warm up evenly.
After taking out the heatpad, it wasnt as sticky as before, but some electrical tape did the trick :)

Couple of pictures of the switch under the dashboard. Hopefully it will be a bit more protected and will last a bit longer :)

http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/51/x844.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/19/hbvf.jpg


Thanks for your help.

hebbo 29-12-13 20:05
HI guys,

Happy New Year to everyone.
This is a call for an electrician in the room :)

Today I went for the first ride after fitting the heated grips. After riding for 10 minutes the grips stopped working.
I have checked the fuse and it was gone and a bit burnt in the middle:

http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/856/y7nc.jpg

I was wondering whether the 3A fuse is too small for the Symtec heated grips (power connected directly to the battery through a fused relay) ?

All connectors and cables look OK.

Did this happen to anyone with the Symtec heated pads?
Cheers!


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