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- - Lights !! ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=21448)

Cheers Pleiades
Having both dip and high on at the same time just makes sence
Phil

I've considered going with an H7 LED as main beam and then a 35W or 50W XENON as high beam. With the mod to high/low control it does'nt matter that it will tale a second to light up the xenon. With a 12W led and a 35W xenon the load would not even be higher than standard.

LED:
http://www.arrow.rs/cene/katalog6.pdf
http://everlight.dk/led-autopaerer/l...lys-5500k.html
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-51...2F271218708145
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tchlink:top:en

With above kits for two H7 leds - Maybe one could just rewire the switch to switch between high and low on the same control circuit

Xenon:
http://www.hid50.co.uk/ultra50.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhilinFrance (Post 192444)

Having both dip and high on at the same time just makes sence

The only other thing to consider if doing the linked high/low mod is that the light blue wire (the main incoming 12V supply from the relay) will carry twice the current that it did before when main beam is on (9A instead of 4.5A). I would not advice running bulbs over 55W in either main or dip. 100W bulbs with this arrangement would be stretching the wiring, relay and charging system to the limit � a pair of 100W bulbs will draw 16A.

I never have understood why the headlight fuse is 20A on the Z because the cross-sectional area of the cable used in the circuit is 1mm squared, which has a maximum capacity of 16.5A? You would have thought a 15A fuse would have been more appropriate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 192443)

Both the green and light blue wires terminals in the switch need to be connected together. That's what Singleminded has done.

If you don�t fancy breaking into the switch and soldering, you can achieve the same effect, by bridging the light blue and green wires on the switch side of the lighting loom�s connector under the tank with a Scotchlok. The connector is by the top of the radiator on the right hand side under a rubber boot. However, you do have to take the tank off! Do whichever is easier for you.

Just to let you know, you can do the Scotchlok method with out removing the tank, you can access the loom and plug from underneath the front cowl, just have the steering over to the left. Done in 5 minutes :003:

Cheers mate , i like easy :thumbsup:

http://www.bikevis.com/

^ A good range of little lights for yer bikes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 192446)

:iamwithstupid:

I had two 35W Xenon HID lights, so less current then the original double 55W lights. But I know that people have used this mod with the original lighting without any trouble. Notice that you don't often ride with high beam for a long period of time.

HJ

Thanks, singleminded for this quick and simple fix.

I undid two screws to get into the headlight switch box.
Unsoldered the blue wire, stripped it back a centimetre.
Resoldered it to the green wire and its original contact.

Put it all back together in under 5 minutes.

MASSIVE FLOOD OF LIGHT!

Saved me a hundred quid, thanks!

This is a great idea but i've just put two "night breaker" bulbs in !!! will this cook anything joining the two wires !!!

Sorry i'm just a rag arse brickie and now nawt about electrics !!

Phil

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhilinFrance (Post 192944)

This is a great idea but i've just put two "night breaker" bulbs in !!! will this cook anything joining the two wires !!!

You'll be fine if they're 55W bulbs.