Mine ticks over at about 1500rpm.....I've still had about 5 or 6 cut outs when rolling to a halt at junctions/roundabouts,since I bought it....dead annoying

:)

moved my tickover up too about 1600. manual says 1400 - 1600, feels much better...no cutting out....yet.

Adjusted tickover - engine hunts around a lot, but its somewhere between 1450 & 1550 RPM. So far so good.... I also adjusted the chain to around 45mm slack - all seems much smoother now. No cutting out during a 40 mile spin, including urban traffic, a bit of motorway & some B road scratching.
BTW: I measured chain slack from top of chain link when pushed hard up towards swing arm, to bottom of chain link when pulled down. Is this correct, or should measurement be taken from centre of chain roller?? I know it would only make a few mm difference, but it could be critical if the chain is over-tightened.. All I know is that it felt about right when I was riding....

Each chain/sprocket has a tight spot, so be sure to do any measuirng when you're at the tight spot. Getting the adjusters absolutely spot on will reduce the tight spot, so worth spending time here. If it feels and sounds right when riding chances are it is or is at least close.

Really helpful thread, thanks.

Just recently when playing in a friends field, my 09 tenere cut out when throttling off twice. I was concern but it started imediately, so no worries. Just yesterday my bike cut out again coming up to a junction. Not ideal and this time I was a tad concerned. After a quick search on the forum my solution was identified. I really hadn't notice the slow demise of my tickover level. Before adjustment and when warmed thouroughly she ran at about 1200rpm, there was the issue. After adjustment back up to the correct level, all was fine.

Thanks to all contributers of this thread and yet again the forum has helped me.

Fuel Injection Cut Out
 

All,

You may well have sorted the issue of why the bike is cutting out but thought I'd share my recent experience.

Bike had been running fine until I was on my way back from France and stopped to get petrol outside Calais. Having paid, I got back on the bike and it simply wouldnt start. Engine turning over but no compression. There was a smell of lots of fuel though. Checked all the spark plug etc and all was fine. Long story short, was towed to the Dunkirk Yamaha dealership who took it apart and then informed me after 3 hours that I needed a new fuel injector (��� + 5 day wait). I ended up getting towed back to Yamaha dealership in the UK as it was still under warranty with them.

They fixed what they thought was the fault - not a fuel injector but a dodgy fuse box connector but then charged me �200 for cleaning the fuel injectors of dirt caused by the French team, that was preventing compression. Got the bike back and rode it again a week later. As I'm pulling round a roundabout in London, the bike cuts out. After a brief moment stopped it restarts again and I'm tentatively off until 1km later I'm taking a bend and the bike cuts out again.

After 3 hours trying all sorts with the RAC breakdown chap (himself a biker) it turns out that the main wiring loom had been rubbing aganist the frame and was therefore grounded when it touched the frame intermittently. Specifically, the wire that had rubbed through was for the fuel injector and therefore the injectors were staying open constantly. The bike cut off automatically because too much fuel was being pumped in. A bit of electrical tape on the wiring loom and the specific fuel injector wires and it was perfectly happy again.

Amazingly, RAC guy fixed in a few hours (and for free) what 2 Yamaha dealers couldn't, despite a total of 7 hours with the bike in the workshop, and both quoting a few hundred quid to sort the issue! :)

This is a fairly well documented fault on the Z. Which is why it still beggers belief that dealers (like yours) don't pick up on these loom-abrasion related issues early enough (or in most cases not all)!

Could someone describe where abouts I should check for this please.

Check the horn wire - I had a rub through on the horn wire - but that was against the plastic fairing so no ground issues.

The problem area is where the main wiring harness runs along the right hand top frame tube under the tank, particularly where it exits the back of the tank around the front of the airbox and inlet valve inspection cover. Have a look at this...

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=13186

Strange to read about this problem, simply because recently I had the same thing! On slower speeds and mostly while shifting gears, the engine would simply cut out. Restarting (while riding) was always easy so not a big of a concern.

It became worse and worse over a few weeks until it actually cut out when idling !

One of the (secondary) causes was a too low stationary RPM, but that wasn't the main issue. It all came down to an electrical problem! Mechanic found the " main electrical connector" to be loose ( Don't know the exact name for it). It's the main wiring coming from the battery. It is connected to the the circuitbreaker panel with a screw? Well that screw was apparently damaged ( factory issue) and after enough kilometers, it got loose. It was still "screwed in" but only gave intermittent problems at certain vibration frequencies. Hence the cutting off at a limited speed range and while shifting gears. Cleaning up the thread of the screw hole and putting in a new screw solved the issue.

From others hear in this thread I read about drops during turning of breaking at an intersection. Suprisingly the same. I rode my Tenere over 300km of high way with that issue without it stalling. But on the local slow roads it became a problem.

So, the intermittent connection loss causes obvious problems to your ignition if you only have one cylinder and one spark plug :) Maybe a "simple" place to start looking it the problem persist .. ?


Maybe this weekend I can take a picture of that particular screw....