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-   -   Engine Management Light and dead Tenere ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=17038)

damomac 08-08-11 20:23

I finally measured my battery yesterday, getting 12.9V with engine off and 13.8V with the engine running. These seem ok.

However while driving in the rain yesterday for a few hours, my code 46 & engine management light came back on for a while. This was 10 mins after I tried to switch on my Oxford Hotgrips but they wouldn't come on. The lights on the Oxford switch unit did flash a few times. I know these have a safety feature in that they will not power on if the voltage drops below 10.5V.

After shutting off the engine and starting it up again, it did turn over ever so slowly prior to firing up so it looks like by battery is on the way out. I've a 2008 bike and it has the original battery. It's kept outside all year round and I've never had to charge it.

damomac 15-08-11 10:42

I purchased a new battery on saturday and for the following 20 mins I really enjoyed the drive thinking that all the problems were in the past when all of a sudden, my friendly engine management light came back on so it appears that my bike is unable to charge the battery.

All electrics died 2 mins after this light and the engine will then cut out and fail to start. Pretty much the same symptoms when my rectifier packed in. We tried to push start the bike but failed so ended up swapping batteries with my mates CBR-600F. His bike is able to charge both of my batteries and my bike will last 20-30 mins before the light comes back on followed by no electrics and engine cut out.

Anyway, it's in with the local mechanic. He questioned the generator but will check it all out.

JMo 15-08-11 11:12

I doubt it is the reg/rec unit itself that is the problem, either the new one or your original to be honest...

The problem [based on what you're saying, and has happened to other people] is the bad connection between the loom and the reg/rec...

If you imagine the AC power from the generator comes up the loom, through the connector block and into the reg/rec, where it is converted to DC and sent out again (through the same connector block) to the loom and the battery, where the DC power is stored.

If there is a bad connection on any or all of the terminals on the connector block to the reg/rec, then either enough AC is not getting through to the reg/rec, or not enough DC is not getting out from the reg/rec through the loom to the battery - which is why your battery is not charging, and ultimately draining when the bike is being ridden.

I very much doubt it is a faulty generator or reg/rec, or indeed the battery - but the connector itself.

The battery however my be shot, as if it has been discharged a lot/been running on a low voltage/not enough charge from the reg/rec. it can be weakened so it doesn't hold a charge properly... While it might show a healthy voltage connected and with the engine running, try starting the bike with a meter connected and see how much the voltage drops.

If the engine does start ok, then immediately shut off the engine, then check your voltage on the battery terminals again - starting an engine (especially a big 660cc single) uses a lot of cranking amps, and you may find that once the battery has started the engine, their is a lot less juice in it - I had a similar problem with a little-used battery on another bike. Put it on the trickle charger, and it showed just under 14v 'charged'. As soon as I tried to start the bike, the reading dropped to under 10V and the starter wouldn't even fire. A new battery and everything worked just fine (the reason my old battery was shot was it had been left connected but not on a trickle charger for over 18 months - I'll remember to disconnect the battery if the bike is laid up in future!)

But do make sure the connecter to the reg/rec is sorted, otherwise you'll just kill a new battery too...

Jx

damomac 15-08-11 11:39

Thank you Jenny for your detailed explanation of the electrics. I see there's 2 other reports of this problem on here and it does indeed look like the connector is causing the problem.

I can't test or measure anything as the bike is with the dealer but I will certainly pass this info onto him.

Cheers.

JMo 15-08-11 12:22

No problem - hope you get it sorted!

Motorcycle electrics are a black art, which I am slowly learning myself, but hopefully that explanation will help anyone else trying to work out the whys and wherefores...

Jx

damomac 18-08-11 11:46

I have the bike back. The mechanic said he just moved the loom close to the regulator and the bike started charging and hasn't stopped since. The connector to the regulator was dry so he put some of that electrical grease in there.

All else seems grand so I'm back on the road again. I do think it will take me a little while to build the confidence back up again.

Anyway, if it happens again, I'm gonna wiggle the cables !!!:happy7:

tacomodo 18-08-11 13:59

For us non-native English speakers, what exactly is "loom"?
I gather its not this:
http://images.google.com/search?tbm=...29l355l1.2l3l0

JMo 18-08-11 14:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacomodo (Post 160664)
For us non-native English speakers, what exactly is "loom"?
I gather its not this:
http://images.google.com/search?tbm=...29l355l1.2l3l0

Hee hee - it does look a bit like that inside the plastic sleeving though!

Yes, the 'Loom', or more accurately 'wiring loom' that Damomac is referring to is the collection of wires that are wrapped together and link the different electrical items on the bike (or any vehicle).

Jx

JMo 18-08-11 14:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by damomac (Post 160655)
I have the bike back. The mechanic said he just moved the loom close to the regulator and the bike started charging and hasn't stopped since. The connector to the regulator was dry so he put some of that electrical grease in there.

All else seems grand so I'm back on the road again. I do think it will take me a little while to build the confidence back up again.

Anyway, if it happens again, I'm gonna wiggle the cables !!!:happy7:

Glad to hear it's working... As long as the pins/plates inside each side of the connector block are correctly positioned within the plastic, and not dirty or bent, then when you fit the connector block to the top of the reg/rec, you should hear an audible 'click' as it snaps home, making a good connection.

Some use grease, which will help keep any moisture out, likewise a rubber boot over the connector (a length of bicycle inner tube and a couple of zip-ties does the trick)...

However, if the pins are not making a good connection initially, then it's not moisture that is really the problem, rather then current arcing across the contacts and leaving a carbon deposit, which in time brakes the connection completely - hence no charging...

Keep an eye on it like you say, but if in any doubt, clean out the pins and plates on each side of the connector, and use a pin (or other small poiking object) to make sure the pins and connector plates are seated correctly and not loose in the plastic housing, then click everything back together, and you should have no further trouble...

Jx

damomac 18-08-11 14:46

I had only put an old bicycle tube over the connector last week but will dig out another one.

Thanks Jenny !


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