Aye... tis bling bling... awiiiiight!

J xx

they really look nice and sturday and I must say I like 'em... but:

- the cut/slot for the RR on the RHS front mount point of the engine bars is the weakness of the OEM bars... although this one looks thicker. Time will tell.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...00129-1302.jpg
- the bashplate rear mount points are welded... and were the 1ts edition OEM bashplate weakness. The 2nd edition bashplate has thicker mount points:

clic to enlarge:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...91010-1710.jpg

no rubber/silent block anywhere on the mounting points ?

Few more pics of the bars now mounted.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0214.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0215.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0216.jpg
That's copper grease by the way.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0217.jpg
Yeah I know I need to paint the front downtube.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0218.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0219.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0220.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0221.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0222.jpg

Adventure-spec did not have an assembly sheet drawn up when I got the bar, but they do intend to do one. I did not have a problem mounting the assembly but I did have to remove the reg / rectifier to gain access to the nut at the end of the engine mounting bolt. Putting the reg back was a right pain as access to the inboard nut behind the reg was a pig, I intend to do a bit of re engineering there as if the nut siezes it will be a 'mare to get it off again. The parts are very accurate and fitted perfectly, the whole assembly looks very neat and maintains the profile of the underneath of the bike. How sturdy in practice remains to be seen as I'm away working for a while and trailing is off the radar for a while.
I spoke to Chris at Adventure-spec the other day and he said that their first batch had all sold but they have another batch coming at the end of this week.

Zou, I don't think that rubber bungs are necessary as the OE plastc guard has them on as the unit is so close to the engine and I suspect it would also be good if you wanted to use the plate as support if on a bike lift, only my opinion though.

I have had a ride around with the plate on and I do not hear any ringing or vibration coming from it..

I do know Chris at Adventure-spec but do not have any vested interest in promoting this product.

I found the same about the RR with the OEM bars, it's easier to unbolt it and move it around.

The OEM bashplate also has rubber bung inside, don't ask me why, I was just noting it :p

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...91010-1710.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...91010-1710.jpg

It looks great anyway, and definitely wants me to paint my bars black:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5173003_n.jpg

(these are my original bars welded back where they cracked.

The nuts on my Rectifier are welded to the rear bracket (sort of a 'u' shaped affair) ........ maybe someone had some issues previously and replaced with a normal nut ? Not that I'm suggesting you've used a dealer that might not have shown you any care in the past...:083:

Always good practice to use some copper grease whenever you take a nut or bolt out.

You'll have to run that one again for me big boy! If you have a look at the pics I've just posted the RR is behind the mounting plate. The screws go through the mounting plate,m through the RR and then nuts are on the back.
I tried to put the assembly back together with the nuts on the front but the slotted holes in the RR would not control the screw sufficiently to guide it into position. I'm intrigued to know where your 'captive' nut are in this situation as both of our bikes are the 'original' generation.

Show us a pic please sir!:Gangsta2_9BI664:

Yep,

the bolts go front to back, the nut is on the back (if you consider the front is the headlight end and the back is the, well back!)

There should be bracket on the rear of the regulator assembly (Part no. 11D-F1287-00), item labled '2' in the picture, that holds the regulator assembly in place - it (the regulator) shouldn't be bolted directly!

It is on the bracket that the captive nut should be fixed.

Sounds to me as if you are missing a bracket......

http://www.smokingtailpipes.com/Gall...-Rectifier.jpg



...and best

You are just soooooooooooooooooooooooo right! the barstewards have not put back item no 2, and just put two nuts instead. I think I'll be having words.

Cheers matey.:luuurve:

Hi GULG

I understand the need for grease, but why specifically copper grease ?

I normally only use the copper stuff on brake parts. Am I missing something fundamentally important ?

Ray

One of those father to son things..... My old man (Old! he two years from retiring..) is a fitter, starting his training on the Blue Streak Rocket (to those old enough to remember) and working his way around the world building mainly Cranes. Anyway, it's one of them things he has always drummed into me. It was called anti-sieze compound once over.

I'm not sure how relavant it is to the motorcycle, but grease has differing levels of tolerance with regard to presure, so puting it on a nut'bolt would put it under more preasure than running in a lever pin for instance. Depending on the type of grease, some can be washed away under normal use by salty water (for this reason Marine grease is a specific grade).

I don't fully understand the whys and wherefores, but I do trust my dad when he says anything that can sieze - will, so use copper grease, for bearings and the like use a better grade grease than specified (This area is a minefiled too, so as I don't appriciate how to determin which is beter I stick to whats specified), If it needs locking, use thread-lock.

I can't see any reason why normal grease won't do the job, but sometimes you just have to trust to experience.

You'll find that any good Motorcycle spanner man leaves tell tail signs of copper grease all over the bike after a service.



Nylock nuts are another one of his bug bears, never re-use them. Always use a new one. Apparently it's a condition of some regulation with anything that is safety related on lifting equipment....