no more engine bars
 

:director: Yamaha have withdrawn the engine/water pump bars, so you can't get them any more :pottytrain5:

actually they already did in November last year here in jolly old Belgium. No news yet on when a redesigned replacement model will be available...

Ahhhh...

an appriciating item now then ??

Just rang Wonky to find out how the bash plate is coming on..........guess what it is finished and will be on sale from the end of the week and it has a engine bar with it :eusa_clap::eusa_clap::eusa_clap:

Have they stopped making them because they keep cracking? I've only just put mine on...! :eusa_eh:

Something must be wrong with them, may be they are getting to many of them returned :tongue9:

I like the look of that, very purposefull.

Me too. Where will they be on sale? and for how much? Thanks.

They will be for sale on their web site/ or phone................�200.00 plus p+p is what Chris told me over the phone

Do you know what testing has been done with it ? The mountings look the same as the Yam one, and if Yamaha have pulled the previous design then this sounds like the problem might be more related to the effects of the bike rather than problems with the manufacturing ??

The Yamaha bars form a rigid frame between the front engine mounts and rear centre stand mounts (as does this one), so it's going to be subjected to the same forces that resulted in the Yamaha bars breaking.

Given that the Yamaha bar/alloy bash plate combo is the best part of �200+ and TT sell thier offering for �200+ I fear the price may be nearer this end of the scale than the �120 for the OTR offering, of course the OTR offering is rally tested......

.... and OTR are 20 miles from me .... hmmmm.

Can you get the web site or pm to me their tel number please as I really like that and want one. I have taken off the MM bash plate as the mountings were not that good and IO have had a Yam engine guard on order for an age.

Cheers SteveD

Here you go Steve, tell them I sent you :tongue1:

Nothing showing mate.............and I've looked at my pm's, no mails either!
:director:Can you try again please.

Cheers

Sorry Steve, I am a **** I forgot to post the link, I was just popping in from the garage were I was fitting my Army Specials and was rushing, try this


http://www.adventure-spec.com/shop/i...iewDoc&docId=2


:BaseballHat_LNY2EG:

I have been in touch with Chris and Dave at Adventure spec and thet (Dave) have told me that they will have some by the end of this week and some more by the end of next week. I have left my tel number with them and am awaiting their call. I will keep posting on this thread of any further instalments. and pics when it comes. I will also have a look at the small LED spot lights that they have as they are quite local.:024:

Have a look at page 1 for someone elses' pics of the plate and wrap around engine guard.

Engine guard and bash plate picked up today. Very good quality and superb finish. This is a very sturdy product and from an Engineering point of view substantially better than the MM one I have taken off.

Too late to put on this evening, will post pics as soon as I can but sailing tomorrow!:031:

So here we are, a few pics of the Guard and some of my observations. The alloy is 4mm TIG welded and Anodised. The steel tube is 25mm diameter MIG welded. The front steel bracket is 4mm MIG welded. The spacer tubes are anodised Alloy. Bolts are Stainless steel.
I might add that in my discussions with Dave at Adventure spec I did ask his permission to put pics on this web site.
I hope to put the plate and bar on tomorrow morning so will add further pics as I go along.
If anyone wants any more particular pics could you please add a comment to this thread. Cheers.
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0213.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0200.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0201.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0202.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0203.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0204.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0205.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0207.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0208.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0209.jpg
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0210.jpg

Looks like a very nice and well-made piece of kit!

Personally I don't like the engine bars as I don't consider them necessary, but their design is very nicely integrated.

Bet it weighs a bit though!

Anyway, congrats to Adventure Spec, and for those who want something more svelte...

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/IMG_6684.jpg

A gratuitous opportunity to post another photo of my bike!

J xx

I JUST DO NOT BELIEVE IT!!!!!!!!!

Jenny have you actually polished that bash plate????????????:Gangsta2_9BI664:


...and I was concerned that the nut on top of the yokes is chromed!

Aye... tis bling bling... awiiiiight!

J xx

they really look nice and sturday and I must say I like 'em... but:

- the cut/slot for the RR on the RHS front mount point of the engine bars is the weakness of the OEM bars... although this one looks thicker. Time will tell.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...00129-1302.jpg
- the bashplate rear mount points are welded... and were the 1ts edition OEM bashplate weakness. The 2nd edition bashplate has thicker mount points:

clic to enlarge:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...91010-1710.jpg

no rubber/silent block anywhere on the mounting points ?

Few more pics of the bars now mounted.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0214.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0215.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0216.jpg
That's copper grease by the way.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0217.jpg
Yeah I know I need to paint the front downtube.

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0218.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0219.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0220.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0221.jpg

http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSCF0222.jpg

Adventure-spec did not have an assembly sheet drawn up when I got the bar, but they do intend to do one. I did not have a problem mounting the assembly but I did have to remove the reg / rectifier to gain access to the nut at the end of the engine mounting bolt. Putting the reg back was a right pain as access to the inboard nut behind the reg was a pig, I intend to do a bit of re engineering there as if the nut siezes it will be a 'mare to get it off again. The parts are very accurate and fitted perfectly, the whole assembly looks very neat and maintains the profile of the underneath of the bike. How sturdy in practice remains to be seen as I'm away working for a while and trailing is off the radar for a while.
I spoke to Chris at Adventure-spec the other day and he said that their first batch had all sold but they have another batch coming at the end of this week.

Zou, I don't think that rubber bungs are necessary as the OE plastc guard has them on as the unit is so close to the engine and I suspect it would also be good if you wanted to use the plate as support if on a bike lift, only my opinion though.

I have had a ride around with the plate on and I do not hear any ringing or vibration coming from it..

I do know Chris at Adventure-spec but do not have any vested interest in promoting this product.

I found the same about the RR with the OEM bars, it's easier to unbolt it and move it around.

The OEM bashplate also has rubber bung inside, don't ask me why, I was just noting it :p

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...91010-1710.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...91010-1710.jpg

It looks great anyway, and definitely wants me to paint my bars black:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5173003_n.jpg

(these are my original bars welded back where they cracked.

The nuts on my Rectifier are welded to the rear bracket (sort of a 'u' shaped affair) ........ maybe someone had some issues previously and replaced with a normal nut ? Not that I'm suggesting you've used a dealer that might not have shown you any care in the past...:083:

Always good practice to use some copper grease whenever you take a nut or bolt out.

You'll have to run that one again for me big boy! If you have a look at the pics I've just posted the RR is behind the mounting plate. The screws go through the mounting plate,m through the RR and then nuts are on the back.
I tried to put the assembly back together with the nuts on the front but the slotted holes in the RR would not control the screw sufficiently to guide it into position. I'm intrigued to know where your 'captive' nut are in this situation as both of our bikes are the 'original' generation.

Show us a pic please sir!:Gangsta2_9BI664:

Yep,

the bolts go front to back, the nut is on the back (if you consider the front is the headlight end and the back is the, well back!)

There should be bracket on the rear of the regulator assembly (Part no. 11D-F1287-00), item labled '2' in the picture, that holds the regulator assembly in place - it (the regulator) shouldn't be bolted directly!

It is on the bracket that the captive nut should be fixed.

Sounds to me as if you are missing a bracket......

http://www.smokingtailpipes.com/Gall...-Rectifier.jpg



...and best

You are just soooooooooooooooooooooooo right! the barstewards have not put back item no 2, and just put two nuts instead. I think I'll be having words.

Cheers matey.:luuurve:

Hi GULG

I understand the need for grease, but why specifically copper grease ?

I normally only use the copper stuff on brake parts. Am I missing something fundamentally important ?

Ray

One of those father to son things..... My old man (Old! he two years from retiring..) is a fitter, starting his training on the Blue Streak Rocket (to those old enough to remember) and working his way around the world building mainly Cranes. Anyway, it's one of them things he has always drummed into me. It was called anti-sieze compound once over.

I'm not sure how relavant it is to the motorcycle, but grease has differing levels of tolerance with regard to presure, so puting it on a nut'bolt would put it under more preasure than running in a lever pin for instance. Depending on the type of grease, some can be washed away under normal use by salty water (for this reason Marine grease is a specific grade).

I don't fully understand the whys and wherefores, but I do trust my dad when he says anything that can sieze - will, so use copper grease, for bearings and the like use a better grade grease than specified (This area is a minefiled too, so as I don't appriciate how to determin which is beter I stick to whats specified), If it needs locking, use thread-lock.

I can't see any reason why normal grease won't do the job, but sometimes you just have to trust to experience.

You'll find that any good Motorcycle spanner man leaves tell tail signs of copper grease all over the bike after a service.



Nylock nuts are another one of his bug bears, never re-use them. Always use a new one. Apparently it's a condition of some regulation with anything that is safety related on lifting equipment....

Although you should never use copper grease with aluminium as the two will react. Far better to use a moly grease, or an anti galling compound. The same is true if you are using stainless bolts into ally, as in engine casings.

Oh and edit to add, NEVER use copper grease on your brake pistons when rebuilding the caliper. Use the correct red rubber grease. Copper grease should only go on the back of the pads to help prevent squealing, and pads seizing to the pistons.

Thats what I use it for, I understood it was for extreme high temperatures.
I use a general purpose lithium based grease for most other parts.
Better do some studying.....

Adventure Spec's sump/engine bars have gone up, they are �225.00 not sure if P+P is free or you have to pay

Adventure Spec's crashbars and bashplate have now been put back at the correct price which should have �199.75...not sure what happened there!

Sorry about that.

Also to answer various other questions and points regarding the similarity between the Yamaha crashbars and the Adventure Spec crashbars check out HERE. They may look the same, but thats where the similarity ends!

As for value, check out what our BMW F800GS customers have to say about our BMW parts HERE.

Ride Safe!!!