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Quote:

Originally Posted by warnabrother (Post 128251)

No you can't do that.. that wire has no power going to it when you switch to highbeam..

Sorry about that, your right, I mixed up Tuscan's mod and your mod in my head.

Quote:

Originally Posted by warnabrother (Post 128251)

No you can't do that.. that wire has no power going to it when you switch to highbeam..

in Australia we have very large animals on our roads at night that will most certainly kill you if you hit them.. every bit of light helps..

In that case I would fit auxiliary lights :emoticons:

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMo (Post 121440)

I saw the Vision-X Solstice lamps on the Adventure-Spec stand at a show recently, and was very impressed with the build (they are aluminium) and brightness - they are LED, and only consume 10w - so you could run them off the side-light/indicator circuit if you wanted!

http://www.adventure-spec.com/shop/v.../prod_207.html

Seriously, check them out, you'll be impressed...

Jen xx

Just a quick note on these to let you know how ive been running them on my own bike (not a tenere, but the principle should be the same).
I have a 'wide' beam lamp(sharp cut-off on the beam top) and a spot. I wire the wide beam into the feed for the TAIL light, this way it always stays on whether im on high or low beam. I then wire the spot into the high beam.
I now have an extra low beam and an extra high at the flick of the standard switch. Happy Days!

Ive been riding with these for a while now. I really like the combination of light temperatures from my standard 55w H4 headlight(warm yellow light) and the Vision X's (cold white light). I find standard headlights tend to have inconsistent light patterns and dark spots. This is what makes seeing hard. The LED lamps white beam is very even and really picks out detail. The wide beam doesnt appear very bright against the standard light, but when you turn it off you lose an enormous amount of clarity and i find myself straining to see. With the high beam flicke i have three sources, my standard high beam, the wide Vis X and the Spot. Straining to see at night is a thing off the past, i just get on with concentrating on my riding at pretty much the same speed i would do during the day.

Next step is to wire a helmet light into my high beam as well for serious night trail riding fun, without having to worry about batteries going flat.

I quickly flicked through this thread and there seems to be a lot of chat on how to get both beams running at the same time. I imagine you could use the tail light feed to trigger a relay for an always on low standard lamp as well.

We have made a bracket for the VisX lights on the Tenere

http://wonky.smugmug.com/Other/Visio...28_MyciX-L.jpg

http://wonky.smugmug.com/Other/Visio...02_Z8iDW-L.jpg

Glad I've found this thread . . . .

Whilst riding my bike up from Birmingham and getting north of Perth in the darker hours, I found, as others have, that the light gap left when main beam is on, especially when cornering, leaves much to be desired. I used the pass switch to help fill the gap, but when you've got another 140 miles of Highland roads to cover, thats a lot of switch pushing. Running into dense fog with rain and having to ride at 20 mph with my visor up for 20 miles didn't help the night pass quickly either though!

I'll be trying one or tuther of the wiring mods to get dip to stay on when main beams selected and let you know how I get on.

Thanks to all that have put the effort into writing about there efforts onto this thread.

Steve T

:cool:

I like the idea of both lights on, however;

does anyone know why the dip is designed to go out when the main is selected?

Is there enough power to supply both?

Is there enough cable/fuse to support both?

All I know is I ran 100w bulbs in both high and low beams for over 10,000 miles without any meltdown... I'd say it should be fine, I think a number of people have already wired both (stock) bulbs to come on together?

Jx

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuscan (Post 124122)

The mod involves bridging the high / low switch (#49) by connecting wires LW and LG as discussed earlier in ths thread. It still maintains the feature where the lights are not activiated while starting (which is not achieved if you wire the low beam via an accessory power supply - the accessory power supply is activated prior to starting and so you are trying to start the bike with the low beam on - some bikes do this normally, but it's not a good look if you have a low battery and are desperately trying to start the bike).

Best of all apart from the time to do it, the mod costs about 10cents and is reversible.

Didn't take any photos, but the mod is very simple...

-Become a supporter of this site ($10) and download the workshop manual
-Remove the seat and fuel tank. Be careful removing the tank - particularly the fuel line connector to the fuel pump on the base of the tank. Don't put any strain on the fuel line as the white plastic outlet from the tank doesn't look like it will take much abuse (You have been warned!!!)
-Locate the wiring loom bundle coming from the headlight switch on the handlebars.
-Follow this bundle to its first connector / plug under the tank. It is cable tied to the frame and covered in a flexible rubber boot just behind the top of the radiator on the right hand side.
-Snip the cable tie, and pull back the rubber boot to expose the connector.
-Undo the connector (not essential, but helps identify the wiring).
-Refer to the workshop manual wiring diagram on page 8-15.
-Identify the wires in both sides of the connector blocks... (note the wiring diagram is a little confusing but simple nonetheless). On the wiring diagram, #51 (the connector block) the wires leading to the connector are labelled Br, RL, LW, BrW, G, Ch, Lg, Y and P. This relates to the collours of the wires on the female side (engine side) of the connector block. The corresponding colours of the wires on the male side (handlebar side) of the connecting block are Br, RW, LB, BrW, Dg, Ch, G, Y and P.
-Identify the LB (Light Blue) and G (Green) wires coming out of the male side of the connector block and gently adjust the lay of the wires so that they can run side by side about 2cm from the connector block.
-Use a "Scotchlock" type connector to connect the two wires together side by side about 2cm from the male side of the connector.
-Reconnect the the connector block, recover with the rubber boot and relocate and cable tie the loom back in position to the frame.
-Replace the fuel tank and connections (two electrical plugs, the fuel feed line, and the filler overflow pipe)
-Replace seat, test ride and enjoy the light!!!

The reversal of the modifcation is simply the removal of the Scotchlock connector and taping over the small breaks in each wires' insulation with electrical tape and you are all back to factory.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, the lighting relay (#44) now carries the full current for both high and low beam together (when high beam activated) and thus the current for both 55W bulbs are going through. As Jenny mentioned she ran a single 100W bulb for many miles in the US and the relay coped well. I would advise however not to do this mod and use 100W bulbs as well - then the current is significantly increased and the relay may have a hard day.

So far with this mod and standard bulbs all is well and a decent improvement achieved. After this I would recommend going to accessory lights.

Now go ride and enjoy...
tony

:HeyHey_GOO2MN:

FYI on Australian Delivered Teneres, the two wires to connect are the Blue with Black stripe, and the Light Green wire. They are a bit thicker than the others in the loom, so are easy to spot. Works a treat!

Anyone riding a Tenere at night deserves a medal. If I'm going to be out after dark I use my other bike (also a Yamaha, so if they can get that right, why not the Tenere?). I want to see the road more than 10 yards ahead, not the top of the hedge.

You know about the headlight adjustment knob?

If that doesn't help: put HID's in low and main beam + do the double headlight mod. You will have plenty of light; drills a hole in the night. Gives me enough confidence to do 100+ km/hr on a back road in the dark.

HJ