Tenere Headlight
 

Hi - new to all this so excuse if I have this in the wrong area.

After much research (mainly from this forum) I have managed to successfully modify my 2009 Tenere to have the low beam on at the same time as the high beam. This gives a better spread of light on high beam (with the low as well) especially when cornering.

The mod involves bridging the high / low switch (#49) by connecting wires LW and LG as discussed earlier in ths thread. It still maintains the feature where the lights are not activiated while starting (which is not achieved if you wire the low beam via an accessory power supply - the accessory power supply is activated prior to starting and so you are trying to start the bike with the low beam on - some bikes do this normally, but it's not a good look if you have a low battery and are desperately trying to start the bike).

Best of all apart from the time to do it, the mod costs about 10cents and is reversible.

Didn't take any photos, but the mod is very simple...

-Become a supporter of this site ($10) and download the workshop manual
-Remove the seat and fuel tank. Be careful removing the tank - particularly the fuel line connector to the fuel pump on the base of the tank. Don't put any strain on the fuel line as the white plastic outlet from the tank doesn't look like it will take much abuse (You have been warned!!!)
-Locate the wiring loom bundle coming from the headlight switch on the handlebars.
-Follow this bundle to its first connector / plug under the tank. It is cable tied to the frame and covered in a flexible rubber boot just behind the top of the radiator on the right hand side.
-Snip the cable tie, and pull back the rubber boot to expose the connector.
-Undo the connector (not essential, but helps identify the wiring).
-Refer to the workshop manual wiring diagram on page 8-15.
-Identify the wires in both sides of the connector blocks... (note the wiring diagram is a little confusing but simple nonetheless). On the wiring diagram, #51 (the connector block) the wires leading to the connector are labelled Br, RL, LW, BrW, G, Ch, Lg, Y and P. This relates to the collours of the wires on the female side (engine side) of the connector block. The corresponding colours of the wires on the male side (handlebar side) of the connecting block are Br, RW, LB, BrW, Dg, Ch, G, Y and P.
-Identify the LB (Light Blue) and G (Green) wires coming out of the male side of the connector block and gently adjust the lay of the wires so that they can run side by side about 2cm from the connector block.
-Use a "Scotchlock" type connector to connect the two wires together side by side about 2cm from the male side of the connector.
-Reconnect the the connector block, recover with the rubber boot and relocate and cable tie the loom back in position to the frame.
-Replace the fuel tank and connections (two electrical plugs, the fuel feed line, and the filler overflow pipe)
-Replace seat, test ride and enjoy the light!!!

The reversal of the modifcation is simply the removal of the Scotchlock connector and taping over the small breaks in each wires' insulation with electrical tape and you are all back to factory.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, the lighting relay (#44) now carries the full current for both high and low beam together (when high beam activated) and thus the current for both 55W bulbs are going through. As Jenny mentioned she ran a single 100W bulb for many miles in the US and the relay coped well. I would advise however not to do this mod and use 100W bulbs as well - then the current is significantly increased and the relay may have a hard day.

So far with this mod and standard bulbs all is well and a decent improvement achieved. After this I would recommend going to accessory lights.

Now go ride and enjoy...
tony

:HeyHey_GOO2MN:

very nice indeed !

Thanks Tony - that's very well explained, and using a scotchlock connector on the loom under the tank is a great idea - simple!

J xx

My pleasure - now I can see the possums before I run over them.

tony

I took a somewhat different route as I wanted to wire in a seperate relay for the low beam light which will provide the full battery power to the headlight..

This is what I did...

OK, so I sent the night in the garage nutting this lowbeam/highbeam thing out..


1. Remove tank - beware of the main fuel hose leading into the tank as mentioned above.. the plastic bit that is part of the pump seems a little fragile..

2. On the right hand side (brake side) of the bike near the top of the radiator is a bunch of connectors covered with a black plastic cover thingo and attached to the radiator brace with a cable tie.. cut the cable tie and pull back the cover to expose the connectors..

3. Find the connector that leads up to the hedlight switch block..

4. Pull the connector apart..

5. On the male connector (the one on the headlight side) is a blue with black stripe wire - this is the wire that provides power to the headlight switch block when the engine is running

6. take a look at the diagram below and wire accordingly.. you will need to cut the positive wire running to the globe and attach the wire from the relay PIN 87 .. I folded the wire coming from the switchblock back over onto itself, cable tied it and then covered with heatshrink

7. read these instructions backwards to reassemble everything - and you're done.. a low beam that stays on with highbeam (why oh why didn't Yamaha do this)..

A few tips to make your job easier and neater... I bought from Jaycar (an electronics shop in Oz) a relay holder that is prewired with tails.. I prefer these to the spade lugs as I know the relay is properly wired - spade lugs sometimes have a knack of falling off

I chose to put the realy in the panel behind the indicator.. there is enough room in there and it saves having to try secure it under the seat which as we know is already lacking in storage space..

There you go chaps.. have fun http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/lol8.gif

http://web.aanet.com.au/%7Elandyman/.../headlight.JPG

Nice job.

Just looking at the wiring I realised that you dont need to use the wire under the tank, just use the wire you cut off the low beam, saves pulling off the tank. That's put the bulb end of the cut wire onto pin 87 and the other end onto pin 86.

Must say I got some 100w bulbs from Jmo and they work a treat you almost never need to use full beam as the spread on dipped beam is so good now.

I still fancy fitting some low spots from the forks so that I get light on turn in. I have some mountain bike spots and may rig these up they work from a battery pack and mean I am not using up any of the bikes electrics.

I fitted a similar system to my TTR worked great until I hit a tree :)

Don't supose you have the details on the 100w bulbs do you........I've gotta do something non-technical to improve the lights, they are the worst I've ever had on any bike I've ever owned.......and I've had far more than I could really afford :119:

cheers!

If I want the low beam and the high beam on at the same time I just use the flash button for the amount time that I need them on, which is not long usually in the lanes/ back roads. Simples :017:

No you can't do that.. that wire has no power going to it when you switch to highbeam..

in Australia we have very large animals on our roads at night that will most certainly kill you if you hit them.. every bit of light helps..