Kev Mod just fitted
 

As well as fitting Kev Mod also done Air Box Mod and Removed Snorkel. Reduced Temperature setting initially by 5 from 13 to 8 but then as far as it would go down to 6. Also increased Co from the origional setting of 20 to 30 then up another 5 to 35. The bike sounds definately nicer ie louder but hopefully not too loud as I often go to work anywhere from 1.30 to 6.00am. The surging is improved as is the uptake of power. The good thing is now I can potter when necessary at 30-40 in 4th and pull away cleanly. I have to say the Mod is well worth the effort & relatively easy too. From ordering to being fitted 7 days.
Thanks Kev for sorting it! Hope you're feeling ok after your op.:icon_cheers:

Thanks for the feed back, it is nice to see someone enjoying their bike after a mod works out. You got to get a set of DNA filters they make such a difference & are well worth the money. Even if you only buy a stage 2 first, it is worth it.

My hand is more painful today being the second day since the operation, but that is to be expected.

I have added a few mods on Ebay for sale, if anyone is interested. I also still have one last cooler if any one wants one.

http://shop.ebay.com.au/merchant/7416kevinh

Low + Mid Range
 

Just been out again for another test run, cant believe how much better the low & mid range are, especially the ability to ride 20-30 in third and 30-40 in forth and even top well below fifty! So much smoother.:042:

Been out today for longish ride. After 15-20 Miles the dreaded surgings back. Its just when following slow traffic in 30 & 40mph areas. Also approaching tight bends where I've changed down and Roundabouts. I am still able to ride 22mph upwards in 3rd & say 30mph upwards in 4th. Have played around with Co settings which was 20 the origional setting to +20 ie 40. Also adjusted fuel mod setting by reducing by 5degC or as far as it will go which is reducing about 9degC. Have also tried adjusting Trottle position sensor which was set to 16, adjusted up to 20 and down to 12. Would it be an idea to go further with these settings and can it do damage. Any advice much appreciated.:100:

Can you check these items for me.

1/ Is your chain adjusted correctly, to loose causes the bike to surge.

2/ Check the free play in the rear sprocket hub, there should only be a few mm of free play. Grab the sprocket & push it back wards & forwards in the direction of the chain, bike must be in neutral. It there is allot of free play, remove the rear wheel & renew your sprocket dampening rubbers or add bits of inner tube to the rubbers to take up the free play.

Come back to me after you have checked these items.

Some info on ECU's below. What is you last 2 digits of your ECU 00 or 01?

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=8546

Ok here's some info-
 

The Chain I have tried tightening and slackening off. Following someones advice on the forum that it should be loose enough to almost touch the swinging arm with a little pressure. The chain always seems too loose to me but I have never had a bike of this type before.
The cush drive seems to have about 1 to 2mm of slack. The bike has only done 3500 mls and seems to of been looked after. It is just over 2 years old although it is probably an 05 or 06 model.
The ECU ends in 00 but I cant see any paint on the rear. There is a large white label on the back which is a little faded but I think says
No Motore M806E816322
Cod Motore 5VK-E900100
There are a couple of small white circular stamps on the front of the ECU.
Hope this gives you a few clues.:happy10:

For the chain to touch the swing arm that means the chain would be very slack in my mind. Ive read many posts about adjusting your chain but never read that.

Mainly if you adjust the chain go mid way between front and rear sprockets and you should be getting around 30mm movement, then turn the wheel a 1/4 try again, you will get different tight and loose stops and as long as the minimum movement is 30mm you should be ok. Also make sure when your tightening up the spindle that you push towards the front of the bike or the right hand side adjuster plate with become loose and mean your wheels out of alignment a bit.

Thanks Maxwell
 

To be honest that is exactly the looseness I would go for, but in owners handbook it says 40 - 55mm. I think at 55mm it might fall off. I will give it a try. The Chain is the origional and is in good nick, as its got a scotoiler fitted. You can bet my back wheel aint that shiney, but no rust! Cheers:sbike:

Chain
 

Ok decided to follow maxwells advice and tighten chain, slack is about 30mm which seems pretty normal to me. Went for quick 6 mile test ride and seems slightly better certainly not worse. I have a sneaking feeling its going to turn out to be to do with the ECU.
:icon_colors:

Sure sounds like the dreaded 04 00 ECU.

I got a brand new 00 with white paint dot from Holland for 66 Pounds late last year.

Ecu
 

Been looking at various websites for prices on ECU. Could do with knowing where you had the one for �66 from in holland, only in the rest of the world the price is a bit of a frightener :incon_aargh[1]:. Will probably be having a word with dealer who sold me the bike as well.
Also I take it I need to fit the 00 ECU with white paint on back, or is it possible to fit a 01 ECU or other even more recent one. & is it just a matter of swapping one for another or is there some setting up involved?:048:

If you have the money I would definetly recommend a 01 ECU, it will fit no problems, I changed my 04 XTX with 00 ECU to the 01 ECU back in 06.

Part Number for a 00 ECU with white paint dot is 90891-30032. Cost 66 pounds.
Part Number for a 01 ECU is 5VK-8591A-01

I will get the contact details for you on the 66 Pound ECU & post them later.

Thanks
 

Thanks Kev that will be very useful.:notworthy[1]:.

ECU's can be ordered through these guys. They did not have the one I wanted in stock so it was ordered from Holland for me.

http://www.alfenglandmotorcycles.co.uk/

Talked to Dealer
 

Thanks for the info Kev.
Now I have spoken to the dealer who sold me the bike. I have given them the info and parts Nos etc and told them what I've found out. They seemed very interested. They then spoke to Yamaha uk, who after checking my frame No. etc said my bike didn't have history of that problem! Well they should ride it then.:091:
Looks like Yamaha uk are in denial.:sleepy5: Anyway my dealer still wants me to go back to them so they can test ride it, to see what they make of it.
So watch this space. Could be in for a battle:viking:.
It will be next week before I can get back there.

Idle Speed
 

Today decided to check idle speed. So after a warm up session on way home from work I checked it. It was ticking over about 1350, so decided to up it a little to 1550/1600ish. Went for a few miles to test, seemed to be little less surging at first. Then checked idle again and found it had gone back down, so reset it again and went for another ride. Definately better not perfect but little bit more acceptable. Checked idle again this time it had stayed where I wanted it 1550/1600ish. :tongue7:
Wondering whether to try setting it higher and what the outcome would be.:HappyRoll_ANPIUI:

I sure helps setting the idle to the correct speed, now go & adjust the TPS to 16 as it should be out because of the idle adjustment being moved.

Morning Kev
 

I had reset to TPS back to 16 already, after I'd tried it up to 20 and down to 12. But I will check again Cheers. Do you think it would be worth setting idle even higher to say 1800/1900ish or would that cause other problems?:blob7:

If the idle is adjusted it will adjust the TPS reading as well. That's why every time the idle is adjusted the TPS must be reset.

1500rpm idle speed is fine, 1800rpm is to high & will cause run on when the throttle is closed.

Good Call
 

Good call Kev. Checked TPS before I went to work this morning and it had changed to 17, so reset it to 16. Checked it again this evening and its stayed at 16. Its ticking over now high 1500 and there is a bit of run on, but its ok and easier to ride at slower speeds. It Just shows a little adjustment here and there can make all the difference. :icon_king: I just need some time to take it for a good long run. Cheers Kev.:sbike:

T.F.F.T.!! :HappyRoll_ANPIUI:

Took me awhile
 

Took me awhile to work that out capt. Hope you're not getting bored. I just thought I would share my thoughts & actions. Though I am no expert I have had a go at sorting the problem out with help from Kev, Yourself & others which is Brill :applause:. Hopefully others who may have simular problems wont be too scared to have a go, because its all pretty easy to do.:hello:

Good news.:bounce016:

As I have said before every bike is slightly different & one needs to play with all the settings to find the best combination for their bike.

Hy,
I'm a member for a wile no and finaly bought the kev fuell fix and fork spacers. I have theme now for about 2 weeks and the difrentse are massive, much better to handele i was already looking for another bike but now i'm sure i stick with it!
I only want a new exhaust alwell.
If read alot of them but cant find the diffrent's of the over size't headers...
Can you tell me the difrents?
thanks alot
Rene From the Netherlands

Thanks for the feed back Rene, I am glad your bike is running / handling better & that you are happy with the Kev mods.

As for the over sized headers, that is one mod I have not tested with a before & after Dyno run to see the gains.

They say there are gains when fitting a over sized header, but I have not seen any Dyno sheet proving any extra HP gains.