Is it all worth it ??
 

Can anyone - probably KEV - advise me here.

I was considering a DNA filter and this "cut off the snorkel and sell it for a fortune" thing has got me a bit bemused.

Whilst I appreciate that getting air into the engine at as high a pressure as possible is advantageous, does the shape of the snorkel assist in other ways, like keeping water out for example (it is called a snorkel after all) and is it worth doing away with or is it only any good for road use for that reason ?
Most automotive manufacturers put things on vehicles for good reason.

I am not considering buying one, as JMo says, a stanley knife will do the same job.

Also, aside from the obvious longevity of a DNA filter, is it worth spending 47 euros on. i.e. is there any perceivable gain in power ?

OGR

I wish I had a XTZ to look at, then I could advise you guys.

Ray,

One reason for a 'snorkel' is to attenuate the inlet noise, you can hear the intake noise above the exhaust in my wee vid'. There's no way the bike would get through noise reg's with a racket like that. Another reason is to protect the standard paper filter element from rain, a particular problem with the Triumph filter located near the rear wheel. Most fit a foam Unifilter or a K&N when they chop the airbox.

This subject has been argued to death on the triumphrat site, partly why I had to go to the bother of dynoing the results of what I did to my airbox. The velocity of the air through the carb/injector body is accelerated by the venturi effect in the body itself. For best power the idea is to reduce resistance to airflow before it gets there as much as possible, but unless you're up the top end all the time, it's of debatable value.

I do agree with your statement for a multi cylinder bike but not on a single cylinder like the XT, on a single big bore it is after volume & has been proven by the Raptor boys & myself with over a 100 dyno runs on my XT.

By reducing the intake at the air box on the XT, induces higher low end torque but does not give you more HP. By opening up the intake at the intake side of the air box you move the torque up in the RPM range & increase the amount HP. I can direct you to all the dyno results as these test are all posted on this forum.

Kev,

I think we're saying the same thing in a different way. The part of my text you've highlighted is supposed to mean 'remove any obstruction to getting air at the carb intake', not the airbox intake. Ideally this would mean no airbox at all in most cases. Fours with presssurised boxes would be the opposite, you'd lose power.

I've seen various airbox intakes for sale to replace the snorkel, they mimic the venturi effect which the carb itself has. But although it speeds the intake velocity at the airbox inlet, it reduces the volume of air getting in. I've spent a lot of time and money on the dyno myself proving this.

Thanks for that, I did miss read your post. We are both saying the same thing.
:3some:

Kev.

Do I read this right ? . By keeping it as it is, it is probably better for off road plodding as opposed to motocross style screaming ?

I do not want a screamer (else I would have bought KTM - sorry for swearing in public) I need a "get you there" kind of bike with power as a secondary consideration.

OGR

What I found on my XTX's by keeping in the snorkel you will have more torque low down around the 1750 to 2500rpm.

By opening up the air box you will gain more torque from 2500 all the way up, but would have less torque below 2500rpm then if you had the snorkel in.

These motors love air volume, I have proven this on the dyno, by removing all the filters on a XTX you get big mid to top end HP & torque gains so even with a stage 1 & 2 filter there are still restrictions. Tests have shown by adding a +2mm throttle body there are even more mid to top end torque gains, by adding + 1mm or +2mm valves with a ported head there are more gains in Torque & HP. The only problem with each stage you are taking away the bottom end & moving the gains higher up the rpm scale.

In the end it is all about where you want the Torque & HP, up top or low down. I built my XT/Raptor motor to have hard hitting mid to top range torque 2500 to 6000 rpm & was not chasing high HP readings, big HP does not mean the bike is great to ride in everyday conditions

Thanks,
 

Kev.

Thanks for that I think you have answered my question I will leave it as it is. I have just ordered an DNA filter which I will fit regardless.

As for the air box, I will (when I get back home after Christmas) open it up and take some photos and measurements so you can see what is in the Tenere.

Regards OGR

That would be great Ray, thanks.