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Ok! Then i understand:023:
I thought you were leading in air from the first chamber into the second....without passing the filter.:BangHead: |
Hi Kev ,nice genius thinking you are doing for us all.Q- how much do i have to increase the CO nr because of such air intake mod.
All the best Krister |
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If you are running a STD bike besides this mode, I would expect the CO would be between 30 & 40 in the CO1 screen. |
Hi again Kev! I have been searching in the forum for all kind of mods to do to my bike .I have XTX 06 model with stock exhaust and my intentions are to do such mods ,can you confirm that i`m in the right direction. What is nessesary and what is meaninglesss ? 1. throttle adjustment to 22 ? 2. Co to 30-40 ? 3. remove snorkel and add 2x50 mm holes to airbox. 4. variable resistors to both air and coolant . 5. engine breather +L hose between the swingarm. 6. 30 mm hose mod. At the moment i dont want to adjust Powercommander and aftermarket exhaust but need some free for charge extra boost.
Thanks forward for your time. Greets K P.S I`m sure that many members are very thankful for your advise. |
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How wrong i was. I now have a even smoother engine than before specially when you turn off the throttle. Before it was like turning a switch of but now its more soft. And i dont know why? But it feels right anaway . |
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Let me get this right, 06 model with STD exhausts & no power commander. No need to adjust throttle sensor on a 06 model. 1. I would carry out the Engine Breather Mod L pipe. ( Purer Air ) Don't for get to block the airbox. 2. I would remove the intake snorkel & cut the intake bigger, drill the 2x holes. ( better breathing ) I would also fit a K&N or DNA filter. You can also remove the silver gaused plate on the STD air filter this will let the STD filter breath better. It is a flame retardant screen. I ran mine off for a few months before I got a K&N filter. 3. Increase the CO to between 30 to 40. ( To richen up the bottom end ) 4. If the bike feels lean, I'm sure it will. I would carry out the Kev Mod with the variable resisters. Set both resisters to 5 DegC below the actual reading after motor is at running temp. Remember all these mods don't give much more in HP, but a smother running bike with quicker acceleration with more mid range punch. Hope that answers your questions |
Muchos,muchos grazias amigo.The Estonian XTX fans are now in action.When done i give feedback.
Thanks a lot K. |
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With the engine breather connected to the airbox & the engine running at speed, the crank case pressure can be high. When the throttle is closed, pressure from the forced crank case & Atmospheric pressure is read by the pressure sensor. This pressure will be higher, then with the engine breather disconnected. With the engine breather disconnected & the throttle suddenly closed the pressure build up does not occur only Atmospheric pressure present. The ECU will run in a different map position. That's why it feels different when the throttle is closed. |
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Now i understand. But i didnt think that a thing like that would affect that sensor. What do you think of the fueling mix now? Will it go richer now because of the lower pressure or is it the opposite way? |
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Last point about this modification. Don't you think that puting a filter instead of a L hose at the breather engin hose end would be a safer solution to keep the particles from getting into the crancase chamber? L66 |
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All I know it does make a marginal difference. |
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Make sure it is at least 12mm ID, as not to restrict the engine breather. There is already a flutter valve in the oil trap of the XT's, so not to worried at the moment. Haven't done mine yet, not found a filter of that size. Will fit one once I find one. |
kev,
I talked to a friend about that modification. He own an old XT500 and knows a bit on mecanics. He said that the engine breather is connected to the air filter in order to spread some oily steem coming from the engin pipe. This will avoid the filter to dry up that can cause even more problem to the engin after around 2000miles. What do you think of that? Putting a T pipe from the engine breather connected to the air box for one branch and down to ambient pressure for the otherone would might fix it up. L66 |
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The STD air filter on the XT660 is a paper element, I'm sure you would not want any oil or oily vapor to contaminate the paper, once the filter is full of oil/vapor the air would not be able to pass through the paper element. If the XT660 was designed for the engine breather to lube the air filter, I'm sure they would have fitted a foam type filter. To my knowledge Euro 2 Emission Control states engine vapor is to be rebreathed & not vented to the atmosphere. I would not vent the Airbox down steam of the filter, because it would suck in dirty unfilted air. Kev |
How about removing the airbox completely and replacing it with a small conical gauze type one.all the air you need and no need to re-route pipes.
http://www.mandp.co.uk/list.aspx?tie...rs&tier3=S%26B |
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I agree but what about Filters like the K&N filter.That's what I have fited. It's got oil inside and removing oil/vapor in the air box might dry it up and damage it. I'll check with K&N compagny if that can cause problems. L66 |
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I don't see any problem using the K&N filter with the engine breather disconnected, as it fits in the exact same position as the STD one. The STD one does not get any oily/vapor on it with the breather fitted to the airbox. If you are getting excess oil on the filter the engine has blow by & there is a problem with the engine. The air flows through the air filter & the breather is down stream, can't really see how it would get to the filter in the XT660 design unless there is a engine problem. I have owned 2, XT500's, first one in 1981. That motor used to blow allot of oily vapor into the airbox, it had a round oil trap which did not work to well & had a flat type foam air filter. If you wheelied it to far, it would dump about 300ML of oil from the engine breather straight in to the airbox & smoke as if it was on fire. In those days I modified the engine breather to the top of the frame into a thin plastic bottle with another pipe out of the bottle back down below the motor. I would empty the bottle ever so often, manly because of wheelies. |
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The only thing with fuel injection you have a few things to consider. You would need to fit the Air Temp sender & Pressure sender into the design, may be a short tube between Throttle body & Filter. You would have to calculate the swept volume of the cylinder in cubes, stroke/bore X 8000rpm. To work out what size air filter would be needed. This is normally worked out on a flow test bench. For us a bit of trial & error. For the latest info on the Fuel mod, check this thread http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=356 |
[QUOTE=Kev]Hi Stoppstadd
I left the motorcycle trade as a mechanic after 12 years & now have work for Volkswagen for the past 14 years. As a workshop foreman. I have been playing with fuel injection systems for a few years now. So the Xt was pretty easy to sort out. I used 2x. Adjustable resistors from 0 Oms to 1k Oms, rated voltage 50VDC & 0.8 watts. You can get them from you local electronics shop. I cut the Coolant temp wire green/red in half, just below the fuel tank. Ran two wires from the variable resistor to each end of the cut wires & joined them. IE, the resistor between the cut wires. I did the same for the Air temp sender. IE, the resistor between the cut wires. I then went in to the dash into zone 5 & 6, then adjusted the Air & Coolant temp sender deg C & found after may hours playing. The best variable for my bike, being 5 degs C below the actual reading. I can turn the resistors to 0 Oms & the bike is back to STD for work, good fuel consumption. Then can adjust the resistors up, in turn lowers the temp deg C, for the weekend mountain racing. I have marked the resistors 5 & 10 degs settings, for quick adjustment. Just remember that the coolant temp sender is for the fuel injection & the cooling fan. So don't set the temp sender for the coolant sender to any setting below 5 deg C mark, then you will be safe. You can adjust the air temp to any setting. I had already adjusted the CO up some time before I carried out this mod. |
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Also where can I find a "map" of the diagnostic menu's, info and adjustments? |
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http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=53 |
Right then. After some pointers from Mick and Marcus yesterday, I got stuck in adjusting the CO1 setting.
My original setting was +21, and Mick pushed it up to +30. This helped a bit, but it was still a bit lumpy. So, I set it back to +21, then went up in +5 increments until it felt better. I have currently got it set to +46 and that feels loads better than before. I'm not on and off the clutch all the time in traffic, I can now just use the throttle and the engine's torque. I was going to push it up to +50, but that would be quite a big jump from my original setting, so I'll leave it there and keep my eye on the plug colour as Mick suggested. John |
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Adjust C1, what about C2?
Should C1 and C2 be adjusted at same value????
What is C2? |
dear friend, we have covered this issue before in the CO1 setting thread..... but you have probably missed it. Never mind here is a simple explanation again:
since there is no second cylinder on our engine then CO2 is obviously idle. You might ask why does it come with a CO2 setting? because our bikes dash computer setup is the same as the Yamaha TDM which is a twin cylinder bike. Although a few of us have tried to alter the CO2 to extreme settings in both directions + or - it makes no change. |
Thank you for very quick answer! That explains all....A salesman at my Yamaha dealer said that you would have to adjust both, I thought that was weird....Hmm...From now on I`m only going to ask people on this forum ....never that guy at the Yamaha dealer again. Thank you for a very quick answer
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You are very welcome,
we please to aim :063: |
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I have this problem of cutting out also. I changed the TPS sensor but the problem persists. How exactly you changed the CO so that cutting out is stoped? Or you just have to play with the numbers...? |
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hello
i can t undrstand how i do this i see the breather on my xtx how i can set the mod thanks |
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mt03 injector
hello, this is my first post,thanks for a great forum.reading comments on mt03 injector,i have owned one of these from new(may 06)it now has 2500 mls on the clock.I took out the demonstator and it cut out with me twice,my new bike did the same at crossings and road ends so i had a word with the mechanic and he richened the mixture a tad,it is not possible to do this on the speedo on the mt03 it has to be plugged into a hand held computer.this did help but the bike does not fuel properly when in town,it seems to surge slightly when on a small throttle.it looks like yamaha still havnt got it right, I will do the mod on the engine breather as this has got to help. many thanks again for an excellent forum....Eck....
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Hello Eck,. welcome to our forum
Try that, see if it works otherwise see if Kev can sort you out with one of his mods, what the 'eck :D its got to be worth a try. :wav: :wav: |
Engine Noise - valve like
My XT660R makes sometimes a noise at start that comes from inside the engine, feels like the noise of a valve hitting something, it makes it only once and then stops, some times does it when in iddle position and suddenly give it some acceleration. the noise is la la clank, feel like fuel was cut for a milisecond.
Any ideas |
Not being very mechanically astute, I think what you describe is called pinking, resulting from low octane fuelling or being too lean.
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Update, test results
9 Attachment(s)
Saturday I had some mates around to my house to run their XTX's on the Dyno. The results after 19 runs, good to know mates that own their own Dyno Jet Dyno.
Kev's bike 2004. Kev Fuel & airbox Mod, DNA stage 1 & 2 & a set of Carbon Cans. Snorkel removed 45 HP STD to 50.4 HP = 5.4HP gain 12% over STD. 43.2 to 47.5 ft-lbs of torque = 4.3 ft-lbs gain 10.5% over STD Kens Bike brand new bike 2006, 62kms on the clock. Being brand new I would expect 1 to 1.5 HP more from the motor once run in. Kev Fuel & Airbox mod & DNA stage 1 & 2 filters. Snorkel removed. 44.8HP to 48.1HP = 3.3HP gain 7.3% over STD 43.1 to 46.9 ft-lbs torque = 3.8 ft-lbs gain 9% over STD Dan's race bike 2005. Total price of mods AUD$ 60.00 Kev's Fuel & Airbox mod, STD filter paper cut out to leave gauze only, three extra holes in side box cover. STD pipe mod, removed end plates on STD pipes, knocked a 20mm hole through the Cat & refitted the end plates. 45HP to 51.4HP = 6.4HP gain 14.2% over STD 43.0 to 48.1 ft-lbs of torque = 5.1 ft-lbs gain 12% over STD 45.0HP STD 47.1HP snorkel removed & STD pipe mod. 51.4HP Kev mod, filter mod, STD pipe mod.3 extra holes in side cover. We are planing more dyno runs in 2 week time & will play with Dan's bike as he wants more power. I still think we can get more power from that airbox, this motor realy wants more air & fuel. It's very hard to compare bike HP's on paper, done at different sea levels with different ambient temp & altitudes with correction factors. The only true way to know for sure if there is any gain is a before & after Dyno run. Will keep you posted. Kev |
I want to move to Australia!!!, look at those lucky sods in their shorts and t-shirts and then look outside your London flat's window, do I make sense? :aska[1]:
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More results
7 Attachment(s)
An update, I have put together the Kev mod results tested on the same bike.
(Graphs 1 & 2)
1> Lower line, is the Standard 2006 XT660X, with no Mods. 2>Middle line, is the Kev Fuel & Airbox Mod 3>Top Line, is Kev Fuel & Airbox Mod + DNA stage 1 & 2 Filters Next I tested Carbon Cans with baffles in & out. (Graph 3). 1> 53.1 HP Out. DB reading, bike stationary in neutral at 3000RPM, 1.5m distance from exhaust 102DB 2> 52.5 In. DB reading, bike stationary in neutral at 3000RPM, 1.5m distance from exhaust 94DB Next test, TPS set at 19 & then set to 25. I have found if the TPS is set to 25 the bike will surge more then set to 19. (Graph 4) 1> Top line, Blue & Purple TPS set to 25 2> Bottom line, Green & Red, TPS set to 19 Lastly, a before & after for Dans bike. We started with 45HP on dans bike 2 weeks ago. .(Graph 5) 1> Red line, Kev Fuel & Airbox mod, Air filter mod, side Airbox Lid mod, Standard exhaust mod. 2> Blue line, Kev Fuel & Airbox mod, Air filter mod, side Airbox Lid mod, Carbon cans baffles out, TPS set to 25 |
So after my reply from CCC to not adjust my CO setting from 6 after fitting their pipes, what setting do I go too please, as on 14 it ran like a Kangaroo unless given a big handfull.
Note no other mods as yet, on there way, standard air filter dirty though! From reading this section it looks like I need to go a lot higher even before modding the airbox and changing filters. HELP PLEASE and I'll pay up to the supporters bit! strat. |
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