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Front rack for touring
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Somebody emailed me a couple of days ago asking about the rack on the front of my bike...rather frustratingly I deleted the email thinking it would be a PM here but it wasn't :cussing: ...so if you're reading this and were asking about the rack, here goes!
The rack is a home made job using aluminium angle bar (you know, with a cross section in the shape of an 'L'). It was more than strong enough to carry the tent which is quite heavy but it was mighty tricky to knock up my MK1 version. The upside was that I got a bit of weight forward and the gear on the front protects you from the elements a bit. The downside is that the (very) low speed handling is effected eg, when you're manouvering in a car park or sometimes pulling away around a corner. The handling may actually have been caused by the weight I had on the back of the bike and have nothing to do with the weight on the front at all! For my MK2 version I'm going to raise the lower fixing points (at the moment the uprights knock against the plastic side pannels at full lock). I might even investigate a steering damper to improve the handling. If you want to know more email me again |
I didn't email u but thanks for that. Could you get some proper close up shots though?
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Do you find that the extra weight has any other adverse effects on the bike at all? That chain looks unnervingly like mine did after my recent trip (although I'm quite big boned... oh, ok, I'm a little chubby). :naka:
Does anyone know what the max weight Yam recomend with regards to luggage etc. for the XT's? :dontknow: |
That chain looks like it's about to jump off. :eek2:
Yamaha recommend 1.5 - 2 inches of slack taken from inline with your wheel rim. That bike has about double that or more. If your's was like that MC when it snapped then I can see why. Worst case scenario would be it'll throw ya off. |
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I am very conscious of this being close to that weight with my leathers (they are very very heavy - it's not me - honest):050: |
Eeeek...the chain really was dangling at that point wasn't it! I did about 3500 miles in 3 weeks up and down mountains so it got some serious abuse. Also, coming from shaft drive bikes I didn't give it the proper attention it deserved :retard: .
Just fitting a new chain and sprockets and Scottoiler before dissapearing off to France. Denny, when I return I'll post some better close up shots of the rack. I have a few piccies in the Gallery here but I'm not sure if they include the rack. Off now to hang my head in loose-chain shame... :iamwithstupid: |
...forgot to add...
All that luggage really didn't effect the handling and gave me a great backrest! Total weight of luggage about 50 - 60kg absolute max so only like having a pillion. My trip into France is going to be a little less loaded but for 3 weeks of comfortable camping around Scandinavia the XT acted as a bloomin' wonderful workhorse. :campfire: |
I thought you rode with the mrs on the back, or did she go on another bike?
Looking forward to the close up shots mate, as I'm gonna be (hopefully) going on a 3 week stint around Turkey and might make something like that myself :nod: |
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Just managed to get a new chain and sprockets on today and have fitted a Scottoiler...I will look after this chain, especially after seeing the shocking state of my chain/sprockets after returning from Scandinavia :086: Piccies when I return... |
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Greencat, we need MORE pictures of your travels!!! :campfire: |
Look's like your carrying a hell of a lot of kit.
I used to be the same but to be honest half of the kit I used to take was never used. Just a thought ,did you add pre load onto the rear shock? if not this can cause the chain to stratch more. I just returned from a 4000 mile trip and the chain did not need any adjustment. I have 2 alloy panniers,one carries all my camping kit and spares,the other clothes with some room to spare. My tent is straped on the rear rack and that's all i need to take. If It does not fit in the 2 panniers I don't take it. Traveling light is more fun and there is less chance of things getting nicked off your bike when you pop into a cafe or a shop. Ride safe and have fun |
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Good point.:eusa_doh: |
What's a pre load and is it essential? Hopefully gonna be going on a 3 week trek soon with the mrs, should I do this pre load business?
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pre load spanner is in your tool kit under the seat.
There is also a extender so you can get the leverage on it. Put the bike on the center stand,or make sure the back wheel is off the ground,the C spanner will fit without moving any of the air box.access to the pre load on the rear shock is from the throttle side of the bike. I have my pre load set 2 notches up from the low setting, this is when I'm riding with panniers full and a tent on the back. If I have a pillion on The back aswell then I go up one more notch on that setting. I have also made a set of 20mm spacers to sit onto of the front fork spring's that has made a great difference,when the bike is fully loaded,and stop's the front end diving to much under breaking. If you ever intend to go off road at all,fit a sump guard.I will post a photo of my TT sump guard and when you see the damaged to that,you will see that if I had not had the sump guard on it would have holed the engine :sad2: |
That must be the big old hook like thing right? I'll get my mechanic to show me what to do before I destroy anything!
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Just found this post and yes i am the guy that PM'ed you or emailed you about the rack. Just wanting to know how you got it fitted on, and some more detailed pictures if possible please. As me and my brother are looking to so africa some weight over the front wheel will help the rear tyre life, the chain and the suspension a bit more.
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Maxwell...here you go...
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The rack is made of aluminium; strong, light weight and very easy to work with.
I used three types of aluminium bar, all available from B&Q. For the top surface I used 20mm angle bar, thats the one with a cross section like an 'L' For the uprights I used 10mm U or C section...that the one with a cross section that looks like a square with one side missing. For the braces I used 10mm flat bar. I've fixed the frame to the bike in 4 places. The two fixings at the top use U-bolts which go around the handlebar cross brace. I drilled and filed two slots into the top surface angle bar to slot over the handle bar cross brace. You can also see that on the left hand side I had to drill and file an extra slot to accomodate the clutch cable (I think thats what is in the way!). I also had to file two sections out of the top surface to make room for the screen (see top down view 2). The two fixings at the bottom use the screws that holds the plastic fork protectors in place (on the XTR at least). Here is one place I will be changing my design. fixing the uprights to this position means that they hit on the plastic side pannels just above the radiator with the steering at full lock which will cause a bit of scratching. I'm going to use the same fixing points but look at adapting the bracket to miss the body work. You'll see from the pictures that I used several bits of 10mm bar to brace the top and the front (in front of the headlamp). This might not be necessary but I thought I'd make it as rock solid as possible. I travelled around some pretty demanding roads (and a few tracks) with a two man tent strapped to the front for 3 weeks and thought this worked really well. With a big pack strapped to the front it also offers you a little protection from the elements although I'd hate to think what it does to your aerodynamics. That said, I really didn't see a huge drop off in mpg even with all the panniers, top box, tent and kit bags. The umbrella probably helped. And before anyone mocks me for it...the brolly was one of the best bits of kit I took (for sun and rain) and it travels with me on all my adventures now... :aska[1]: |
thanks for that green cat, will have to see about some mounting points when i go to look at an xtr660 tomorrow. sounds like a very good build and i think i could even have a stab at making it. I think though if i where to make it i would use steel as it can take a bit more of abuse and would be stronger. Only down side really is it would rust and be slightly heaviers.
Any way keep us up dated on the Mk 2 version of your rack, i hope to here more about you fixing the attachment to the fork legs. |
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