front or rear sprocket change..R...
 

I have changed the front sprocket to a RENTHAL 14T one with the aim of bit more get up and go and tbh Im more than a little disappointed..

So would a change to a 48 t rear sprocket make any noticable difference?

AND would the original chain then be long enough?..

It doesnt really matter where you change the ratio but it makes a bigger difference with the front sprocket.

I changed the front sprocket from 15 to 13 on mine and got around 15% more torque wich put me spot on my goal to rise the front wheel with ease on third gear.

To aquire the same result with the back sprocket i'd have to go from 45 to 53.

Skickat fr�n min ONEPLUS A5010 via Tapatalk

with a 13t front sprocket, you might want to check if the chain isn't eating your swingarm...

check this out to get an idea of shifts in torque etc.

remember...going up more than a couple of teeth on the rear will likely need a longer driver chain. Also your speedo goes woefully out the more you move away from the standard ratio.

I'm running a 15/46 and that works great for me but the speedo shows 100 Kph and the sat nav states I'm doing 90. At 50 kph I'm doing 43.

http://sprocketcalculator.com/

I have been running with 13t quite some time now, there is a higher wear on the rubber protection but the chain hasn't touched the swingarm yet.

Skickat fr�n min ONEPLUS A5010 via Tapatalk

What is standard front and rear?
I'm due for a set, will replace chain as well
Seems x-ring the better chain option

15 / 45 with 110 links at 520 width

Best supplier for this Chalk Two? I'm due a set too.

you could buy each part separately on ebay to try and save a bit or go to https://www.wemoto.com/

Hi, wemoto do DID, have seen talk here of the Renthal kits being good. 6 of one , half dozen of the other? or is there mileage in buying a Renthal kit over DID?
Also what tool do I need for the chain, is it what is known as a breaker?

Appreciate your opinion

I'm with Chalk Two on the ratios...15/46 works well for me. After doing the other mods...DNA /Kev mod and throttle mod the change to 46 rear was a nice fine tune to throttle response. All of the above is wasted though if your chain is dry/loose or badly adjusted.....makes a huge difference on the Tenere! For my money Renthal for sprockets and the best chain you can afford! Steve

Reynolds / DID / Renthal are all very good. I know you know but ensure you get an O or X ring chain as plain chains do wear out a lot quicker and are not the correct chain for the XT's engine.

As for mileage, all of them will last as long as your love does. Keep them clean, tensioned and lubed correctly you'll see anything from 12 - 20 thou miles out of a set. (side bar note - regular aggressive riding / wheelying / dirt riding could equal 50% less life)

Chain breaker?

Well in reality it's not a chain breaker. It's a tool to re rivet the new chain together. If you try and use it to split a chain, you'll split the tool's pins.

To remove an endless chain you either remove the swingarm or cut the chain off with an angle grinder. (unless it has a split link).....or grind the rivet heads of one link flat and push that link out with the errrrrr chain tool.


Split link;-

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1883/...1c20c3eb_n.jpg chkmc-unilink by Chalk Two, on Flickr



Chain tool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bike-Moto...QAAOSwOMtbbIFc



https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1900/...19a0ffa4_n.jpg by Chalk Two, on Flickr


have a look on you tube for chain removal tools.......and ignore any nonsense about not needing to grind a rivet head on chains less than 530 width. Follow that advice and you're highly likely going to bend the tool's pin. To that end, if you're using a grinder to flatten a rivet head you may as well just cut straight through the old chain and be done with it with said grinder.

Many thanks for that comprehensive reply Chalk two.

Iordered a renthal chain kit comprising renthal back and front with tsukabi xring chain from C&B.
I'll order that chain tool you mentioned as well, guessing I'll need it for the complete changeover when I do both sprockets and chain in one go.
Incidentally, I've only done about11k and about 8k the chain started being noisy (I use castrol racing (lube) wax on it) and don't wheelie or go off too harshly either.
Maybe my cleaning regime could have been better. :(

When you get to the bit about undoing the front sprocket nut......here's a thing I came across and it works better than anything else for the home garage guy.

https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24240&page=2

Thanks yet again chalk two the bolt idea is simple and I can see 100% effective.

Re the tab, would you know if routinely are supplied with chain kits? I'm guessing not

The front sprocket tab washer is a separate bit of kit.

Check out the link. But it can be found cheaper.

https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/product/y...smission?uid=0

I used to know Sutton's back in the eighties (in whitton, twickenham), had no idea they were the place to go to for parts.
My memory of Gus is one that disn't suffer fools gladly, maybe there's a lot of them in the motorcycle game.
Thanks for the info chalk two, yet again.

Arghh, I should've looked at the chain packet before commencing work.
The chain comes open with a link and the O Rings to join the two ends, in my naivety I assumed there'd be a link to clip on to join the chain like on a cycle.
Clearly, that won't do for a motorcycle.
How do I join the two ends?

use a soft link...basically an open link that you close with a tool or hammer..I would have thought it came with the chain kit tbh

Thanks Nikroc, after doing a little investigation online it would appear the important part is the riveter.
The chain came with a link and the four O rings and link plate to join it up again so I'll buy the "whale" brand that seems universally to be the only one that doesn't bend on use.
But do I need to buy the splitter/riveter version, or is it easy once a chain's links are ground off to remove the chain?
In this instance, as I'm changing the sprockets, I don't need to cut off the chain, itll come off in one piece, but for future if it's easier to grind off the chain than splitting it, I'll do that.
Also, they recommend packing the link with grease, what one should I use?

As Nikroc says, you need a chain link peening tool, but all is not lost. You can buy separately a clip type link ( as you mentioned ) . They're probably 5 quid on ebay and are so much easier to use. Some people have reservations about clip links but, for me, that's absolutely correct when dealing with powerful bikes but a 45 bhp single, regardless of single engine pulses, a clip link would be ok. I've used one on the Tenere before now. Just remember to place the clip's open ends away from the direction of chain rotation, and make sure your clip link matches your chain ...i.e. 520 width or 525 width and is an o-ring link as they are definitely different to none o/x ring and come with their own little O/X rings.

Your chain will not come off in 1 piece unless you remove the swinging arm. It is far easier to use an angle grinder and 12 seconds later the chain is on the floor. Don't bother grinding rivet heads flat and pushing pins out. Just teach it a lesson and cut it off, straight through the link plates.

As for link grease, they normally come with their own grease.

Thanks Nikroc, and latterly Chalk Two, the chain that came with the driveset is a Tsubaki RSN520 ALPHA XRG 110 links.
So I'm assuming the following:

There are exactly the correct amount of links and I don't need to remove any to shorten the chain for my XT ?(it was bought as a driveset specifically for the XT660X).
The link that came in a separate bag that has the four O rings in it does not have annular grooves, so I'm forced to peen it?
This above link in the separate bag is really greasy but they haven't added a sachet of grease separately, so just go with it as is?
I'm sorry, being a bit dense, I didn't understand that last bit: "...i.e. 520 width or 525 width and is an o-ring link as they are definitely different to none o/x ring and come with their own little O/X rings"
I'm guessing that doesn't count as I appear to be forced to peen.
Once again, many many thanks and patience for my questions.

Your XT should have a chain length of 110 links. Its width is 520 standard ( some people upgrade to 525 thinking a wider chain + sprocket will lasy longer / less stress).

I think your new chain is an X ring spec, again slightly better, so long as you look after it.

The link + greasy sachet is really all you need. Additional grease would be belt and braces.

It also sounds like you will have to peen over the rivet heads. Don't over do this or the link will be too tight. Check out youtube.

Side bar ;- O rings are like a wedding ring or any other round rubber washer. X rings are also circular but if cut through and looked at internally have an X profile. The logic being an X places two contact surfaces on the chain plates where the feet of the X shape touch compared to the one of the O ring. Two contact points, allegedly, keep more grit out / grease in, inside the roller pins. Mmmm? all very gimmicky in sterile laboratory conditions. In the real world of salty UK roads plus questionable chain hygiene, it's all a load of......

Changed chain and sprockets today
Think it was time

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4858/...96d53cff_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4833/...6a4f5b31_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4881/...c7c79c9c_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4806/...7bc7f08a_b.jpg

You got thousands of miles left in them...:unibrow:

Took the old sprockets and chain and made something to use them a bit longer
Created a lamp out of them

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4888/...eca56a35_b.jpg