MT-03: Unable to put rear wheel back
 

Dear Yamaha-ers

I know this is mainly a forum for the XT-models, but I have a problem with my MT-03. I took the rear wheel off to replace the brake pads and noticed the cush drive rubbers were worn out. (The XT models use the same kind off rubbers).I replaced them, but I cant get my rear wheel back.
There is not enough space between the swingarm: I lack about 1 centimeter.I have tried prying, pushing, wriggling... but I have given up for now.
I always begin at the brake disc side, sliding it between the brake pads and fit the small spacer. But when I do that there is not enough space on the sprocket side for the bigger spacer.

Is there something I'm missing? there is a gap between the rear sprocket assembly and the new rubbers, should there be no gap at all? I tried pushing the sprocket assembly as far as I could, but even without the rubbers in the wheel, it can only go so far.
Or do you have to pry the swingarm apart with a special tool or something?


I'm a total *** at this so go easy on me :p

Kind regards

.
have a look at the below schematic diagram (check it's your model too) and make sure your spacers are on the correct sides and that your brake calliper is seated correctly on the rail that is situated on the inside of the swinging arm. Also make sure you wheel is absolutely vertical when you present it back to the rear arm. Any deviation from 'perpendicular' will create an issue as you describe.

You mustn't attempt to bend out your swinging arm. It'll fracture and there is no need. There will be a simple solution buddy. We've all had hassles with rear wheel fits. Another hint is to use a chock of wood under the rear wheel so the weight is taken for you and things may well line-up so it's easier to push the spindle back through

Good luck..

https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/genuinepa...ar-wheel?uID=0

With the new rubbers fitted it will be harder to get sprocket/hub back in, there should not be any of the rubbers showing if it is pushed in properly.

Al.

I used washing up liquid as a lube to get the sprocket carrier in after I packed it with inner tube.

I struggled for hours on my own trying to hold the wheel and fit the spacers etc..with the help of my mate it took less than 5 minutes.

I have an MT03 and the rear wheel usually goes back easy, try the advice given above, happy to send you pitures of my rear wheel if you are not sure it is assembled correctly, the sprocket hub should be flush with the hub body, are you sure you have not over packed the cush drive with rubber?

Thank you all for your quick responses.

I'm going to try again tomorrow. The spacers should all be in order, I took pictures of the rear wheel assembly before I took it apart.

Still, I think it might have to do something with the rubbers/ the sprocket assembly. It (the sprocket assembly) rests upon the "center" of the wheel (the hole where the axle is supposed to come through) rather than 'sinking' in? I've been looking at videos on youtube for the past hours and on all cush drive replacement videos, they can stomp it in / let it sink in with ease but I cant do that on my bike. Maybe that is something specific for the MT-03?

I think you mentioned you tried a refit without the cush drives and still had no success, maybe I misread something.......that'll be my sneaky bottle of red, Torre de Ferro..

How about comparing new v old cush drive rubber depths. If your new ones are deeper then that could well be the issue, keeping your sprocket carrier too far out of the hub. I'd check part numbers are the same (new v old) using the web link I gave you earlier.

Yep that is what I meant. Going to try again this evening. I have stacked some bricks and boards under the wheel so it's almost perfectly aligned with the swingarm holes. Now if I only could put those spacers in...

One trick that I use is to use zip ties from the sprocket to the spokes to strap the two tightly together as they can get seperated as you put the wheel back in. Also prize the disc pads apart to allow more space to get the disc inbetween them.
You must put both spacers into their respective positions before you offer the wheel in to it's correct place.
When in don't forget to pump rear brake pedal to get disc pads tight up to the disc.

Hope this helps.

Steve

Please keep us updated. We're all still learning.and a definitive answer would be great..Cheers.

It might not help with the original problem but I use a piece of dowel, that is just under the width of the hub and spacers, to hold those pesky spacers in place, it knocks back out when you put the axle back in. The wheel also goes in easier if you roll it in from the rear on a plank of the right height. As said make sure the calliper mount is seated properly and the chain is out of the way, but still the right side of the sprocket.

Still could not do it. I'm going to wait for my uncle to come by this week, he is a car mechanic but also used to own a MT-03 which he rebuilded as a hobby.

On the following video you can see from a 660 tenere (same sort of rubbers) that the person is able to stomp it tight, but can't do that on my MT-03. It still leaves a gap. I have tried giving it CPR massages, hitting it with a rubber mallet,...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ro8ldj4gQV4

This is the farthest I can get my rear sprocket assembly in:
https://imgur.com/a/jG5OElR

what year is your MT 03?

A 2016 MTO3 set of rear rubbers is Yamaha part number 1WD-F5364-00, earlier MT03's had the same below part number as a Tenere and so many other Yamahas which have the same rear rubbers such as models including things like the 250 V-twin Virago and even the old XT500 (from memory )which is part number 5Y1-25364-00

Where did you get your new cush drive rubbers from and are they confirmed the correct part number?

Brappedout, your picture of the sprocket hub fitted to the wheel hub shows the problem, the sprocket hub should be flush or just under the edge of the wheel hub, I'd suggest you have the wrong cush drive rubbers, they are too fat, put the old ones back in. Don't try and make that fit and ride the bike the chain will come off the sprocket and do much damage, no ones wants that to happen. have you checked the sprocket hub bearing, is it seated correctly?

The old rubbers are the same as the new ones. I put the old ones back ones back in and it was the same result.. something must be wrong with the bearings I guess.. How could I identify a bad bearing?

https://imgur.com/a/FAUgMuh can someone "spot" a bad bearing on this? I know its a crude way but I dont know anything about bearings...

The bearing looks seated correctly. Put a smear of Vaseline, or general purpose grease, or even olive oil on all faces of the rubbers and using the; lube-your-rubbers-for-a-nice-slip-in, principle your sprocket carrier should push straight back in to place. Rubbers are sometimes 'dry' and we all know how that hurts...

hummm....suggest you take the rubbers out and drop the sprockett hub back in, I am assuming it will fit properly. Are you putting the cush drive rubbers in correctly and all the same way. Take a picture of the sprockett hub, the drive lugs side and the wheel hub and one with the cush drive rubber fitted and post them up

ITS FIXED!

My uncle came over and inspected the wheel. He saw that a bearing came out too far, we used some penetrating oil and popped it back in. After that, the wheel was back under the bik in under 5 minutes....

I'd like to thank you all for the replies and help!

FOR FUTURE MT-03 OWNERS STRUGGLING WITH THE SAME PROBLEM:

If you want to put your wheel back after taking it off/changed the cush drive rubbers but cant because of a lack of space, check this bearing:

https://imgur.com/a/lTRWCy2

It should be all the way down. If not, use some penetrating oil and lightly tap it with a mallet,... it will make a 'cling' sound when it is.

Im assuming the bearing was seated correctly when you originally took it apart...so how the fcuk did that happen??

Great news buddy, but I'm with nikroc on the question of how a tolerance fitted bearing became too far out by just removing the sprocket carrier and yet still required penetrating oil to get it back in. I'd be looking at changing that bearing if it isn't a proper tight fit. Never the less, a great result ! Thanks for the update.