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Peak helmet / Tenere buffeting solution photos
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I've owned my Z for 30,000 miles and never suffered from turbulence until I bought.....a Caberg Tourmax modular, peaked lid. . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/2...ac38a2fb_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/801/4...db62fa33_b.jpg Anything over 60 mph caused the well documented blurred vision unless I held the peak. I have Arai, Shoei, standard, full face lids and a Bell open face ( with a peak ) and also an HJC MX peaked helmet. I've never had problems before. Standing on the footrests at 70 mph stopped the buzz on the Caberg. I think the Caberg's peak is too flimsy since it does not connect to the shell in the upper middle of the helmet and is merely bridged from left to right side hinges. I will re-inforce its peak but I thought I'd kill a couple of hours closing the fork tunnel draught that so many have found to be the culprit of turbulence under a peaked helmet. Personally, I think turbulence and buffeting are two separate things. I've been 'buffeted' on a naked bike on the Continent at big speeds which could be cured by a fairing and I've experienced turbulence caused by varying screen heights and widths. My FJR1300 and STX 1300 both could create turbulence and 'vacuums' by electronically adjusting the screen height too much on the move but once set at the correct height it was like riding behind double glazing. I decided to block the upper rear fork tunnel area with this pile of Blue Peter trinkets.. Cardboard templates, foam sponge and super glue. . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/813/2...39058fea_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/810/4...74e43fab_b.jpg I used 30mm foam and vinyl, the same stuff used for seat covers. This stuff superglues super fast . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/4...4767e3b7_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/800/4...ecb8dddf_b.jpg Once my vinyl foam pasty was made up I used self adhesive velcro around its edges. . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/885/2...b16082d3_b.jpg Then placed the opposite part of the velcro to the pasty pad . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/4...46580172_b.jpg Then squeezed the pasty pad into the fork tunnel just above the dip stick and removed the backing off the velcro which leaves this..... . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/4...9132cae4_b.jpg I then made sure the velcro was nicely flat on the tank and replace the pad. This is the final look when both are done. . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/4...1d20b1ed_b.jpg Because the pads are foam filled they do not hinder steering movement and they return to their original form when the bars are straight. The pads are just behind the fork legs in the straight position too. Here's a pic of full lock. . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/4...0e1612a3_b.jpg So...Part 2 came along because I had time and thought it would be a bit of man-cave time. I decided to seal off the front part of the fork tunnel too. (I've seen this as a factory fit on some big trailies). Time for cardboard again. The shape of this cut-out was determined (by trial an error) so that the front edges cleared the inside of the tank on lock-2-lock and the rear edges didn't hit the radiator. The tow hitch has to be inverted too. . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/3...b4a68e8c_b.jpg Rough shape . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/876/3...23f0033b_b.jpg by Actual sizes ....(so far - may need some trimming later)........ . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/4...e5597395_b.jpg Sketch transposed on to masking tape which is stuck on perspex sheet. . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/3...d2e53716_b.jpg The holes for the tow eye fasteners are 8mm. I then used a Dremel and its cutting wheel and cut through the masking tape, then removed the tape and perspex protective film to get this... . https://farm1.staticflickr.com/870/3...b5d9888a_b.jpg The entire fork tube tunnel is now closed and the buffeting has massively reduced. There is no 'vacuum' effect either. Other info: I'm 6 foot tall and the bike is fitted with a standard height screen and standard seat. I'm going to remake the perspex sheet out of 4mm thick stuff as this 'prototype' is only 2mm and is a bit flimsy and may - will crack around the fixing holes. I'm also going to allow better spacing for my brake lines. I appreciate some guys have a high fender and also original brake fittings but I'm sure a cardboard template, based on the above, could be morphed in to what is needed. The advantage for me is that it's all removable in seconds. It remains to be seen how durable it all is. As for the Tourmax........well it's very comfortable except for the flimsy peak which comes off to make a 'normal' helmet. Also its chin strap is a bit gimmicky plus the internals of the chin bar are really close to your face. |
I like these mods. I've changed to a taller screen but the helmet buffeting is still there. I'm 6ft 3 also on a standard seat,and agree about preferring to have the my head in some clean air, so much so I have another spare tall screen I'm considering cutting down less than standard to try and sort the problem, but your solutions could help.
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Nice job....I shall give it a go!. That's a good way of getting round the 'squashing ' of the wind stopper when the forks are on lock. Steve ps I stiffened up the peak on my Arai tour x with a strip of heavy duty rubber. ...certainly helped.
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Nice mod!
Am having the same issues with my helmet, AFX 41DS. |
Thanks guys.....I've amended the sketch so the one above is the final cut.
I cut out the 4mm perspex today and this was the final result. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/879/4...aee13c67_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/3...fd5875c1_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/814/3...36ae9d24_b.jpg . . just a quick note...I had to use spacers between the perspex and the lower face of the tow eye. Since the tow eye is now upside down there is a groove at the rear of each leg of the tow eye that now needs filling or tightening the back two bolts will stress the perspex as there would be a void. I used 6mm plain nuts which fitted perfectly to fill the void as a spacer. Had another run out (50 miles - mainly motorway) and the difference was well worth the couple of hours messing about. I'll keep an eye out for 'steering influence' from the perspex and if required will pepper-pot it with 6mm holes. Costs:- Superglue �1 Velcro �1 Vinyl ..probably a fiver but I had it lying around Foam �1 - a car wash sponge, look for the denser type. Perspex �5, all you need is an A4 sheet masking tape �1 Tools;- Scissors Stanley knife 6, 8, 20mm drill bits (I used the 20 for my brake lines) Dremel with a cutting wheel for the perspex - makes a nice straight line. G-clamp to hold the perspex when cutting on a desk pen and straight edge plus a rule/r Cheap as chips......... |
Nice job.
If you still get some vibration off the peak you can shape some hd wire and glue it onto the bottom of the peak to stiffen it up. I had to do that to my tour x |
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what a shame to muck up that peak on such an expensive helmet :-/
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Lol. You can't see it unless you peer under the peak. It removes vibes almost completely.
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You've seen the mods I've adopted (above) to combat the the blurry vision, which I have found solved the problem to a near perfect resolution. Gotta admit though....a side wind on the motorway buzzed the fekk out of my peak. So I have adapted it as you did. I used 2.5mm wire to make a matched profile of the inner peak and then shrouded it in heat-shrink coating (used for electronics) which then gave a fantastic super-glue base for fitment. Apologies for the poor photo quality but these are the photos of the wire getting fitted to the inside profile of my Caberg peak. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/898/4...08b8e3ec_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/818/4...aa70cd95_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/815/2...d49c63cc_b.jpg |
The anti-buffet mod looks a good job and I will probably give it a try. As a
matter of interest have you tried a handlebar bag with a light waterproof jacket or similar in it. Works quite well for me. |
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https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/4...5e6e9f94_b.jpg |
Two nice fixes. The wire on the peak I might have to do tomorrow. Getting sick of blurred vision. I've got insulation tape dampening the vibes. Not a good look for the helmet...
I had wondered about the wind up the tunnel. I've got a high mudgaurd and Kayaba USD forks so might play around with something when I get time.... |
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[Edit:24 04 18] I gave the Caberg Tourmax another chance and did 300 miles on a mixed motorway / twisties ride and either it wasn't as breezy or I'm getting used to it, but it was actually not as bad. So I've ordered a comms / gps kit (Scala) for it which I can transfer to a different lid if it still is nuisance. I'll give it another 1000 miles. I've always had problems finding a helmet that does it all and this was the cause of my problems which lead me to buying the Caberg. Great looking lid with a sun visor and a flip front but when I went on a 5 hour ride to Tomar and back, it sucked !...The Turbulence was gone from the bike, just not side winds on motorways. �200 down the pan. I know I can take the peak off and it become a normal helmet but on reflection it looks like stuff is missing when you do this, plus I really like Shoei/Arai plushness. I'm still learning ! |
What a great read!
Thank you for sharing. |
Thanks Chev......
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