Kev's Mod:Settings...
 

So I have been out and about on the bike this week and am loving it.

Question though for all of us that have the fuel mod fitted...what position are you running in this cold weather?

Twin DNA filters, snorkel removed and twin race cans with baffles in and i have it set at 5 o'clock., nice, crisp throttle response.

Fitted one a couple of years (14k miles ago) and left it at 6pm. After removing the cylinder head at 30k I had quite a lot of carbon build up on the piston crown and valve seats. Two valves leaked in a bench-test.

At the same time as fitting the mod I fitted twin GPRs, DNA filter and open top, plus an O2 mod. Valve clearances had always been checked on schedule too.

I'm guessing the xs carbon was down to me and the 6pm setting as the ambient air temp is usually 20 plus here and I must have been running too rich for those two years. I set it at 6 because I , (confession), didn't want to burn a piston crown by being too lean. I should have trusted a 4 pm setting instead.

Interestingly I have an F1 daig tool and have only just found I can see the actual air temp and the 'adjusted' air temp as I dial in the mod.

There is a thread here somewhere about ambient temp / dial position.

Thanks for the replies..its the 'somewhere' that Im struggling with.I have looked .

Mine's been on 12 so I guess that's running lean. I got 12 from here...somewhere..

I think 12 o'clock is actually 'off' according to Kev's install sheet .... https://www.mediafire.com/folder/x1v...T660_Fuel_mods .. or
.. https://www.xt660.com/home/kev-shop/...r-and-fuel-mod


Also have a look at here..
https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php...vs+temperature

Thanks for the links..so when the dial is turned anticlockwise to its ultimate stop the units are turned off (position 12)..moving it clockwise to between 4 and 7 for Stages 1 and 2 DNA filters and race pipes is the given range..

It was set to 6...

I have now set it to 4 and will see how she now rides.

Still curious to see what setting others are using.. maybe we could get a list of People who have the mods done and what settings they are using for various temps and obviously what 'stage' the bikes are running..as a STICKIE or reference.

I put some self adhesive sticky backed velcro on the mod and stuck it on the tank for on-the-fly twiddling over a lengthy ride . I settled for the position that appeared to respond the best and then located it under the seat as a fit and forget.

Fair enough..I understood that you had to adjust between settings according to weather conditions..not going mad like ..was thinking of two settings as I ride all year round,ie hot(i know its relative) and cold.

I think you're correct. My failing was to leave it alone and where I live it goes from 19 to high 30's, on average 26 ish for most of the time. I suppose where I left it was feeding fuel too much for the high summer time, hence my coking issue. I'll be giving it a more regular tweak (turn it back to 2 or 3) for our hot days.

Cold air is denser, so your bike will run slightly leaner in winter. The bigger picture is this mod is adjusting an inefficient map. So whilst its much better than just running lean, ideally you'd fit a power commander if you're serious about correct fuelling.

Cold air / dense air / winter temps running leaner etc.....is, I think, the basis of the mod's con The mod kids the ecu into thinking it's colder than it is so the ecu,by default programming, chucks in more gas to compensate, to richen the mixture which is a good thing when running straight through / limited baffled pipes and certainly a faster drawing air filter. Some car types have fitted pretty much the same device but it's a switch over system on the dashboard. I'm almost sure that's the logic of it.

Hi there i've tried all settings and find it makes no difference i have kev mod, O2 controller, stage 1&2, snorkel removed race cans baffles removed. The surging is driving me mad i don't know what to do next, do you have any suggestions?
New cush drives made no difference. Confused..

I'm a bit of a new kid on the block with these, and there are more knowledgeable folk on here, but to smooth mine out I followed the advice in the threads below. My TPS was at 15 so I left it. But I did adjust the CO to 15 as shown in the video. Also block off your AIS as described in the thread.

One other thing, I spent about an hour thoroughly cleaning my filthy chain with a small brush and lashings of oil and that made a big difference to the snatchy throttle response! Good luck and let us know how you get on.


https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=56

https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=11113

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Mg3TaoXDFU

Good advice there...your drive chains condition/adjustment can make a big difference to your ride.

I used a toothbrush to clean mine when I first got the bike..with some degreaser.I had newspaper under the chain area(bike was on a paddock stand).
TBH I jet washed the whole area afterwards and used an airline the dry the chain/rollers.
I was amazed at how much crud came off/out of the chain.

Wurth chain lube is recommended.

How did you get on after replacing your chain & sprockets?