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My XT660Z thread
Hi!
A few weeks ago I purchased a mighty fine XT660Z (ABS) 2014 with only 4700Km on it. (1 elderly owner) LINK TO PIC The bike had a CTEK connect port installed so I had to purchase a charger to fit. I have added heated grips and bar protectors. I have also ordered a dual USB port, shorter 2-finger break/clutch levers and a pair of LED extralights and an X-grip for the phone. Bar raisers are also installed for a bit comfier ride and I got a pair of 2nd hand SW-motech EVO pedals that has a nice large platform to stand on, but they do come out further from the frame making my feet stance wider. Now to the electronics... I want all extras to be off when i turn off key so I will install a relay for the heated grips and most likely an extra relay for the LED-lights as well. The power for the heated grips and LED-lights will come from the screw terminal on the front left side of the tank. The controller feed for the heated grips relay will be from the extra connector in the dash. USB will be powered from the extra connector in dash. The LED-lights will use the main beam as controller so they turn on/off simultaneously as main beam only Question - is main beam relay powerful enough for a 55W H7 and 2pcs LED-lights? they are stated 125W so ~10-11W Or can I replace this relay with something more powerful? |
I mounted 1 of the relays in the left fairing (where the indicator is mounted) this is a 2 part plastic thingy with lots of air in it. The relay is directly connected to the 30A screw mount below the tank and I must say this works great. The controller for the relay is the main light so when I turn it on I clearly hear the new relay kicking in. The output will be my LED lights that are on its way...in case you are curious I made sure there is long enough wires so the fairing can be removed and dismantled.
So the next thing to wire up is the heated grips. It will be controlled by a relay as well so I do not forget to turn it off... This relay will be on the right side and the controller will be the spare connector in the dash.... And this connector will also provide power to the dual USB port to be mounted. For a few hours work I'm really pleased with the outcome. I'll upload a picture tomorrow... |
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Nice looking bike. I haven't seen the black boxes before.
I am interested to see how your LED upgrade goes... I found on my other bike the H4 LED scattered the light alot and wasn't as good as it should have been. The Tenere lights are not the best and I have mounted an AdvMonster 5 LED light bar. Now on highbeam I have daylight:icon_sunny: |
I will let you know as soon as I get them. The relay is mounted and I'm fabricating a mount for them.
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Moving on as new items ends up in my mailbox.
AIS I used some duct tape to try to block the "banger-hole" in the airbox. If I got it right I will use something more permanent like a bolt or something. USB-CHARGING PORT The USB arrived and I made a hole with a drillbit and a dremel on the right side fairing. It is quite deep, here is what it looks like on the INSIDE Next to the USB-ports is another relay mounted that actually will be connected to both the heated grips and the USB port. The controller for the relay is the extra powerplug in the dashboard. This way the power for USB and heated grips turns off when I turn of ignition so I cannot forget the heated grips and drain the battery. FINISHED ASSEMBLY This is what it looks like when the relay is in place, lengthy wires is to allow removing of fairing without disconnecting all wires. Waiting for some LED,s and X-grip for my phone. |
Very nice & clean work!
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New 2-finger levers arrived today. A direct replacement with stock Brake and Clutch levers as the stock ones are too long to fit with hand guards on.
Now I can position them properly without levers hitting the inside of plastic protector and the protectors can now be turned a bit more up to block some air. PICTURE 1 PICTURE 2 It doesn't appear to be much but it makes a huge difference when mounted. HERE is a link to Aliexpress |
And today I got a deal on a 2nd hand Touratech luggage rack.
Here is a link to Touratechs Luggage Rack I got it for �50 with a few scuffs on it, but hey its been used for what it's designed for ,who cares |
Nice work there.
Good idea to run the USB port/s off a relay. I had a USB port on my previous Tenere connected directly to the battery and the battery went down when not using the bike for a while. I have another Tenere now since migrating to Australia but have been reluctant to fit the USB port which I brought along. Now I know how to fit it, thanks! |
Hi!
It fits very well between the inner and outer parts of the cowling. My X-grip arrived, I mounted it on one of the bolts that holds the handlebar. I 3dprinted a GoPro mount for the top bar 10mm to Gopro and took it for a testride. Dang that was a shaky video! When I had the camera mounted to the handlebar it was perfect. I'm really scared to mount any electronics to the top bar at all... I bet u get some fancy gear for your bike in Australia... |
I agree with you on that top bar vibrating. I shifted my electronics to the handle bar. Easier for me to see it as well.
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I got my items from Kev :icon_scoot[1]:
Package 1st thing I did was to report back to Kev that the items arrived... Next thing is to open this up and take a look inside. Nice wrapping I start by installing the easiest one Black box Access made easier by removing some panels on left side Easy access If you have trouble finding the connector, follow the wires from sensor on leftmost exhaust It is hidden A quick test of how to operate the connector Testing Lift up the locking tab with a flat screwdriver Gentle force Now we try the same on the bike itself This one Slides apart with a plopping sound Connectors Here is what it looks like when the controller is installed 2 Connectors Now secure the black box somewhere with zip-ties Temporary? Put panels back on bike Nicely done Now we move on to the fuel mod... As you can see from the pictures this is an ABS version so there are extra junk under the saddle that makes it even more difficult to remove the snorkel I cant breath in this helmet To reach the sensor I remove left cover of airbox Airbox is clean Simply put some pressure on the sensor to slide it out of the rubber seal Sensor location Here you see the ABS unit...takes up some space ABS And pipes Some connectors for alarms, debugging and so on... Connectors galore It is much easier to remove snorkel if you undo the bracket for the tank Bracket on the loose Now we can lift the snorkel upwards and pry the base up between connectors, wires and all ABS plumbing Lifting moment Here is what the dark helmet looks like when removed Snorkel Nice clean area and easier access, still on stock airfilter (less than 600Km) Spotless Locate the wires to the sensor, I already cut it open Wires It is easier if you remove the sensor Sensor OOPS, coffee, back in a bit... It doesn't matter which wire you cut, I picked the black/blue one WireCut I'm not a big fan of the white connector supplied so I solder the wires and add some heatshrink as well Shrinking Time for the breathing...a gentle prying and the snorkel came off surprisingly easy Snorkel away Here the snorkel is off and the mounting plate is in position. As you can see there is room for improvement Filter and mounting plate A secret compartement? Connectors That was all I had time for this is the current state Bike Back to the drawing board... |
Wow, very nice post with lots of pics :041:
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Kalmar Castle
On Stage Yesterday at 23.00 I finally had the opportinity to go for a proper testride after installing Kev's mods. Most notable difference is in revs below 3000 thanks to the o2 controller. The fuel mod makes a difference when altering the intake and exhaust. I assume it helps here as well... Next up on the mod-list is the Huzar muffler I ordered yesterday, should arrive within 10-14 days. The LED lights arrived from China. They are the kind that has 3 modes. HIGH, LOW, BAD BLINKING **** (totally illegal) So I have to modify the circuit board a bit but this is a later version with a different PCB so I think I need to source some resistors. I also need to come up with a way to mount them without flapping about. Googling some pictures reveals 2 mounting spots...1 of them is on crashbars that I do not have.... |
1st off - here is a link to the lights
Motorcycle LED Headlight Fog Light 125W 3000LM U5 Waterproof Driving Spot Head Lamp Switch Moto Accessories 12V 6000K I managed to alter the LED modes LED board This does not work! Youtube link to u2 mod If you have the same sort of light you have 3 modes Full, half, Strobe This is very inconvenient and strobe is illegal (at least here) This PCB differs from many chinese "CREE" boards. If you google this you notice most videos on Youtube recommends to remove the u2 chip - this board has none! So another solution is required. Modify the memory! The big capacitor on the right side is a batterybank - for the memory. If you solder a 1K resistor on the big capacitors legs (to the right) you shorten the time it will hold power but within this time you can still cycle the 3 modes. In my case with 1K resistors it is about 1 second then it is back to 1st start mode which is FULL mode. (What we want) Switching modes is done by cycling power within said time so if I want lights at half strength I do ON - OFF - ON (cycle to 2nd mode) If I for any reason want strobe I do ON- OFF - ON - OFF - ON If you are riding in the dark with headlights on (mode1= full) and you meet another vehicle you power off main beam for more than 1 second when you power on it is on full mode again. Unmodified the lights has at least 30-40 seconds memory - and that is far too long. If I for any reason want to cycle I can do so with the main-flasher button at index finger. A cheap mod on cheap Chinese "CREE" LED lights, not totally waterproof, totally Chinese quality IE not comparable with more famous brands. OH and btw - I ordered a single muffler from Huzar - it is already shipped. |
Another detailed post...
My Huzar muffler (exhaust) arrived Big Parcel Very well protected Opening up 1 end And the other Rolling up the corrugated cardboard 2nd wrapping Contains the muffler Added a folding ruler for measurements The 1st DB killer Now we start removing the stock parts Lets see Start with the tail The plastic protectors If I had known there was a hidden screw in the rear....it would have been easier Now to hte heavy parts Finally got it removed Wasnt that hard actually... And to the grande finale The Huzar in place Oh LA LA From The rear end And the side And the tail... Heavy part 2 Then I had no more pictures of me mounting the handlebars and the top covers or the heavy tail... However - I ordered an Acerbis Enduro Tail from Ebay to replace this POS... |
Nice looking exhaust. What is the weight of the Huzar exhaust?
Can you post a short video of the exhaust noise with the new muffler attached? |
What pictures??
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Quote:
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Correct, I host the pictures myself to avoid stupid things like Photobucket
I do not make any thumbnails so links are to full size images Weight will come when I get a scale. Sound will come when I charge the camera :) |
Here is a short video with sound
I also noticed I need some sealant as there is some leakage going on. Youtube link |
Thanks for that. That sounds good. Looks like I can get one for the same price as a second hand one without a matching link pipe here in New Zealand. Would be worth getting I think.
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Hi again!
I decided to remove my rear wheel and take a look at the cush-drives. As expected they are bone dry and pretty worn out. I have been watching videos on Youtube as instructions how to do it and they are very helpful. The bad thing is that my memory failed hard so instead of the recommended Silicon Grease (Vaclav Turek Video) I used Lithium grease and finished it all up. Do you follow the Yamaha XT660Z Tenere group on FB? Anyway, the friendly and super helpful community pointed out that I was supposed to use silicone grease... 1 tube of silicon grease purchased and off with the wheel again...this time removing all grease I put in 2 days ago... And this time I cut up a brand new innertube from my MTB. Cut it into suitable pieces and applied the silicon grease all over. To hold the gear in place I used Zip-ties and even though I did that it was a tight fit to get the rear wheel in the swingarm. Some wiggly wiggly on the wheel and I got it back in place. New Cush-drives are ordered - the version that is for the old tennere as they according to Vaccel hold up much longer. I will also order PU drives from a friendly forum member. And a black PUIG screen is on its way as well as a tailtidy from Acerbis. 1000 things to fettle with - and 1000 more to go :D |
Hi Undcon. No I don't follow FB. Too many things to do to spend too much time on the computer...
I got a pair of the FX short levers this week. I got sick of squashing my fingers with the long ones. They seem well made for the price. And fit better behind the hand gaurds. |
Hi!
Problem with this site is that it is going to be shut down soon. https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=20688 See last posts... So In my point of view - there is no point in continuing posting news to an already decided dead and deleted forum. Facebook on the other hand is no good in threads like this, but the support and community is great. Ill move my posts to my own site instead and let this die in peace. |
Dude!!..the sites not dead yet and will hopefully continue if we continue to support it..
Long live XT660.com |
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