who has the lightest xt660z?
 

I wonder what is the minimum weight you can get changing or removing some
factory stuff. I read big reduce is the factory double pipes, anything else can be
done? I'd like to get below 200kg wet.

You can move to single break rotor but I would recommend to upgrade to 320 mm if decide to go in this direction. AIS (if you haven't removed it yet) is worth considering - around 400 grams altogether, battery - change to LiPo aka lithium and will save something like 2 kilos.

Hope this helps ;)

Under 200Kg wet is reasonably easily attainable, much less than that will get very expensive! Here are some weight loss ideas…

Battery: A suitable size lithium battery weighs 1.6Kg and the OE Yuasa weighs 3.4Kg, so 1.8Kg can be saved here.

Exhaust: The lightest titanium single cans (like an Exan or Akrapovic) weigh in at around 1.6Kg including the link pipe and fittings, whereas the OE system weighs 7.2Kg, a saving of 5.6Kg.

AIS: The total weight of all the AIS plumbing and valve is about 0.5Kg and could be removed.

Tail tidy: Aftermarket aluminium ones weight about 0.5Kg; the OE one weighs 1.2Kg. That’s a saving of 0.7Kg

Wheels/hubs: The stock hubs are heavy (less so the rims), my rear wheel with 525 sprocket, disc, spacers and Metzler Enduro3 tyre weighs 18.5Kg, a Talon Excel rim, sprocket disc and tyre as supplied by OTR weighs apparently weighs 14.5Kg, so that’s a 4Kg saving. For argument’s sake, let’s assume another 4Kg can be saved up front too making a total on wheels and hubs of 8Kg (maybe a bit more with a single disc/caliper). However, that 8 or so Kg could cost you anywhere between �900 and �1800 depending on where you source the parts and whether you build the wheels yourself or not.

Doing all of the above will save you a grand total of 17Kg. Now the snag; it could cost you anywhere between �1500 and �3000 to achieve!

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again… Don’t forget, by far the cheapest, easiest, best and most effective way to shed weight is off your own body (if you've got room to of course). There's little point in scrabbling round for the odd kilogram here and there on the bike (at great expense) if you could potentially lose 10-20Kg yourself! Even emptying your bladder and bowels before a ride will save nearly as much weight than a lithium battery would, and it’s free!

Power/weight ratio is the biggest beneficiary of a trim rider. Let's assume a baseline of a stock bike, with no rider with 43.5 rear wheel hp (rwhp) and 206Kg (wet). This gives a power to weight ratio of 211rwhp/tonne.

Stock bike with 70Kg rider on board = 158rwhp/tonne

Stock bike with 80Kg rider on board = 152rwhp/tonne

Stock bike with 90Kg rider on board = 147rwhp/tonne

Stock bike with 100Kg rider on board = 142rwhp/tonne

The difference between the 70Kg and 100Kg rider is about the equivalent of fitting a PCV, DNA stage 2 and a set of cans, which would easily set you back �600 or more if you factor in dyno time!

Also don’t forget petrol has a mass of 737g/L, so your bike will have the same power to weight ratio advantage as losing 10Kg of hardware if you run it with no more than 10 litres in the tank.

I know the above theory doesn't help with un-sprung mass, but the rider's mass sits almost entirely above the bike's centre of gravity, so has a very significant effect on handling, not just power to weight ratio.

I see where folk are coming from when they quest for weight loss from their bike; I too have tried to minimise the bike's unnecessary additional mass as much as possible. However, other than junking the standard exhaust, it's all small on the grand scale of things… or phenomenally expensive.

Less pies = More power!

Who cares about the lightest. I'm going for the heaviest!!!!!!!!!:039:

Those are very poor pictures Steve.

I'm sure there must be ones with your bike at about 1.3 tonnes....

My bike weighed in at about 190kg last winter when i had it on the scale. The tank wasnt completely full, so you can add some kilo's to it.

Weight savings:
- don't get the ABS model :)
- Talon hub & Excel wheels with 1 brake rotor
- KTM 690 front fork with aluminum triple tree and yoke
- S-moto rear tail tidy
- motobatt battery
- Exan exhaust
- AIS removed
- supersprox sprocket

But some new crud has been added to the bike adding weight:
- pannier racks
- navigation
- LED spot lights
- PCV, speedo healer, fuse block
- CLS chain oiler
etc.

it still is a heavy bike for the technical stuff


see my topic:
http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=23457

For me personally, weight is no issue as I use my Tenere for short rides and short and long travels. If I�d use the Ten for more offroad ridin� I would reduce the weight where possible, but I don�t, so....

The suggestion about losing weight on your own body leaves me wondering whether it wouldn't be a lot easier to handle the heavy bikes like our ten in the technical stuff if you were to be a bit heavier yourself.

I think if you're a taller, heavier person, the ratio own weight / bike weight would be far more ideal and you would have far less trouble keeping the overall balance than a typical small, light guy would have.

Even more so, I do not think anyone uses the tenere in such a way that 20 kgs of rider weight would affect the performance of the bike in a negative way. No-one will ever use the Ten for SX.. Shaving 20 kgs off the bike's weight however, would greatly improve performance on general offroad / trail riding. Lowering it's centre of gravity would help, too.

Any weight loss ANYWHERE, bike or rider, is going to improve power/weight ratio and performance to some degree. You might not notice it; you might not be bothered by it; but it'll nonetheless be there. After all, 20Kg is 20Kg whatever it is attached to and more effort will be needed to move it! ;)

Only if the reduction in weight comes from the wheels, where losing unsprung weight is beneficial to suspension control; the effect on power/weight ratio would be exactly the same wheels or not. Once you (the rider) are mounted on the bike, you are effectively part of the bike's sprung weight. Losing weight from the bike would achieve exactly the same effect on overall unsprung weight as losing weight from the rider.

You've kind of contradicted yourself...

...which would raise the overall centre of gravity.

Yes, if your bike is over-sprung for the rider's weight, then a heavier rider will make balance and control easier, and the suspension work better. However, as long as your spring rates are chosen to match your body's weight (and the bike's weight) and the active/rider sag is correct, everything will be fine.

That's phone cameras for you and ......................it was dark on the ferry over to Loch Fyne!:eusa_whistle: