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-   -   XT660Z Headlights. Re-wiring ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=25012)

taylori 18-12-15 09:40
XT660Z Headlights. Re-wiring
 
Hi, my Ten had HID lights fitted when I bought it. They blinded everybody on dip and there was a lull between dip and main of about 3 seconds, complete darkness. So I put the originals back on. On the whole I'm pleased with the result. What I would like to know is, is it possible to rewire the loom so that the dip stays on when switching to main?
I ride all year and mostly on country lanes. I have Touratech spots which are wired to dip, giving me a good close up vision but lose all that fill when switching to main beam. If the spots and dip stayed on when switching to main, things would be just about perfect!!
Thanks in advance.

Pleiades 18-12-15 11:13
Yes it is possible. It's an easy mod, free to do and makes the world of difference.

Read this.

dommiek 19-12-15 21:50
I'm planning to do that mod tomorrow, plus fit some Vision X spots.

I'm thinking of using the accessory connection (brown and black wires) under the small cover below the clocks; I believe it's part of the side/tail light circuit. Can I run two Vision X spots and a sat nav from this?

Pleiades 20-12-15 09:58
Quote:
Originally Posted by dommiek (Post 216816)
I'm thinking of using the accessory connection (brown and black wires) under the small cover below the clocks; I believe it's part of the side/tail light circuit. Can I run two Vision X spots and a sat nav from this?
Yes. A pair of Vision X spots draws about 1.6A at battery voltage and most sat nav's peak at about 2A (when charging from completely flat internal battery) but maintain charge at a few hundred mA (check the spec in the user manual). Fit a 5A inline fuse to the brown wire of the connector feeding your spots/gps, so if the accessories (or their wiring) fails, your sidelights and indicators will still work.

dommiek 20-12-15 10:57
thanks Pleiades; there's not much free cable coming off the loom before the connector, do you have a solution? Is there a matching connector block I can buy to extend the wiring?

Pleiades 20-12-15 12:28
Quote:
Originally Posted by dommiek (Post 216822)
thanks Pleiades; there's not much free cable coming off the loom before the connector, do you have a solution? Is there a matching connector block I can buy to extend the wiring?
These connectors are as rare rocking horse sh!t - I don't know of anyone who's actually managed to source one? Easiest thing to do is cut it off and replace it with a standard 2-way snap connector (what I did) or, alternatively, use mini blades to push onto the existing connector's terminals. You could solder/heat shrink longer tails on if you wanted more slack.

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psrcjda452.jpg

dommiek 20-12-15 18:28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 216823)
These connectors are as rare rocking horse sh!t - I don't know of anyone who's actually managed to source one? Easiest thing to do is cut it off and replace it with a standard 2-way snap connector (what I did) or, alternatively, use mini blades to push onto the existing connector's terminals. You could solder/heat shrink longer tails on if you wanted more slack.

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psrcjda452.jpg
thanks Pleiades

deandy 21-12-15 09:19
@Pleiades: I've got them from this set: https://www.louis.de/artikel/elektrikstecker-set-108-tlg/10003843?list=134643186&filter_article_number=1000 3843
But there are only 2 2-pin's in it.

Or is these already your solution to use them instead of the original ones?

cheers, Andy

taylori 21-12-15 11:40
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylori (Post 216798)
Hi, my Ten had HID lights fitted when I bought it. They blinded everybody on dip and there was a lull between dip and main of about 3 seconds, complete darkness. So I put the originals back on. On the whole I'm pleased with the result. What I would like to know is, is it possible to rewire the loom so that the dip stays on when switching to main?
I ride all year and mostly on country lanes. I have Touratech spots which are wired to dip, giving me a good close up vision but lose all that fill when switching to main beam. If the spots and dip stayed on when switching to main, things would be just about perfect!!
Thanks in advance.
Hi Pleiades, thanks for the info. As I'm already running Touratech spots ( wired to dip) , and heated grips, am I likely to run into charging problems following this rewire? At the moment, as I'm working shifts, I ride in the dark a lot.

Pleiades 21-12-15 12:35
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylori (Post 216844)
Hi Pleiades, thanks for the info. As I'm already running Touratech spots ( wired to dip) , and heated grips, am I likely to run into charging problems following this rewire? At the moment, as I'm working shifts, I ride in the dark a lot.
When you say you have the Touratech spotlights wired into dip beam, do you mean they are wired directly into the dip circuit (I hope not), or that the dip circuit provides a trigger for a relay and the load for the spotlights comes from the battery. If it is the former, then you are already pushing the boundaries of the headlamp circuit as 2x55W spots and 1x 55W dip beam is going to a total current of 12-14A (depending on charging voltage). Although the headlamp circuit is fused at 20A, the wiring used is 1mm sq. 32/0.20 cable which is only rated at 16.5A so 16A would be a realistic absolute maximum current to consume, which begs the question why Yamaha would chose to fit a 20A fuse when 16A would have been more appropriate? Wiring main and dip together with this set up will tip things over the edge. If you are using a relay and separating the load, then the headlamp circuit will be able to cope with wiring dip and main together, but you’re going to be right at the absolute limit of the alternator’s charging capacity itself, especially considering what’s needed just to run the bike and all the other accessories you have fitted.

Have a read of this thread regarding the charging capacity of the XTZ.

TBH the Touratech spots are a bit old hat now; you can as much, if not more light from LED spots at a fraction of the cost in terms of money and current draw. I would seriously consider ditching the TT spots in favour of some LED lamps. TT spotlights still go for good money on ebay and would easily provide enough capital to purchase a pair of LED lamps and you’d have some spare cash and LOT of spare Amps left over to play with! ;)

Some food for thought…

taylori 22-12-15 01:03
The TT spots are wired through a relay and separate handlebar switch....so the latter. Was considering LED replacements. Think I'll take that route. Any suggestions for replacements? Thanks again.

taylori 22-12-15 01:08
Unfortunately the thread doesn't link. As you say, def food for thought. I'm going to try wiring the Dip and main together and replace the TT spots with LED's. Will experiment in daylight first, though!!

taylori 22-12-15 02:05
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 216845)
When you say you have the Touratech spotlights wired into dip beam, do you mean they are wired directly into the dip circuit (I hope not), or that the dip circuit provides a trigger for a relay and the load for the spotlights comes from the battery. If it is the former, then you are already pushing the boundaries of the headlamp circuit as 2x55W spots and 1x 55W dip beam is going to a total current of 12-14A (depending on charging voltage). Although the headlamp circuit is fused at 20A, the wiring used is 1mm sq. 32/0.20 cable which is only rated at 16.5A so 16A would be a realistic absolute maximum current to consume, which begs the question why Yamaha would chose to fit a 20A fuse when 16A would have been more appropriate? Wiring main and dip together with this set up will tip things over the edge. If you are using a relay and separating the load, then the headlamp circuit will be able to cope with wiring dip and main together, but you’re going to be right at the absolute limit of the alternator’s charging capacity itself, especially considering what’s needed just to run the bike and all the other accessories you have fitted.

Have a read of this thread regarding the charging capacity of the XTZ.

TBH the Touratech spots are a bit old hat now; you can as much, if not more light from LED spots at a fraction of the cost in terms of money and current draw. I would seriously consider ditching the TT spots in favour of some LED lamps. TT spotlights still go for good money on ebay and would easily provide enough capital to purchase a pair of LED lamps and you’d have some spare cash and LOT of spare Amps left over to play with! ;)

Some food for thought…
Vision x look like the best option. Any experience? One "wide" on dip and one "spot" on main seems popular. Might be a bit complicated for me though, I'm no electrician,, 😡

Pleiades 22-12-15 09:55
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylori (Post 216860)
Vision x look like the best option. Any experience? One "wide" on dip and one "spot" on main seems popular. Might be a bit complicated for me though, I'm no electrician,, ��
I have Vision X, but I have 2x spot beams which I fitted way back in 2010. TBH there are many other cheaper options out there these days which seem to be just as good in terms of light output. Wiring is straightforward and I'd be happy to walk you through it, although if you can't be bothered or don't feel up to it, then Adventure Spec and a few other places do a ready made loom (at a price).

Have a read of this thread.

taylori 08-04-16 11:28
Cree spots- wiring help please?!
 
hi, just purchased a pair of cheap Cree spots off tinterweb for less than �20. Gonna give them a go. Will remove TT floods and try to mount the Crees in the same place. Currently the TT floods are wired via a relay and a handlebar switch. When switched on they automatically come on with dip and go off with main; or when switched off they stay off completely.
What I'd like to do is utilise the same handlebar switch and relay set up to operate the Cree lights on main beam only.
Not good with electrics but would like to have a go myself and learn a bit. Any help greatly appreciated (Janet and John simplicity won't be interpreted as being condescending, in fact would be appreciated)

Pleiades 08-04-16 11:58
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylori (Post 220348)
What I'd like to do is utilise the same handlebar switch and relay set up to operate the Cree lights on main beam only.
Not good with electrics but would like to have a go myself and learn a bit. Any help greatly appreciated (Janet and John simplicity won't be interpreted as being condescending, in fact would be appreciated)
What you need to do first is locate the relay. Once you have you'll see four wires attached to four blade terminals. One of these will be the trigger for the relay - basically what activates it. At the moment with your current set up is the relay is being triggered by a wire connected to the dip beam circuit.

The terminals on the relay are labelled 30, 85, 86 and 87. 86 is usually the trigger, but sometimes 85 and 86 can be reversed, so 85 might be the trigger. The switch is usually fitted somewhere in this trigger feed wire, although it could (unlikely) be fitted in either the load (87) or main supply wires (30).

Trace the trigger wire from the relay to where it is pliced into the dip beam circuit (probably a Scotchlok) and cut the wire off from it. Locate the supply wire to the main beam bulb holder and, using another Scotchlok, splice the wire you cut into the main beam feed. Your auxiliary lights will now be triggered off main beam.

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbv2wpa6f.jpg

If you wanted to the relay/lights to work with main and dip, simply connect the cut trigger wire into one of the feeds to the parking lights.

taylori 09-04-16 11:21
Cree spots, and mode conversion to high beam only.
 
thanks for the info, really useful. In actual fact, as you say, I simply needed to cut the trigger wire off the dip circuit and solder it back into the main.
Lights are great, just need to wait for some darkness to set the beams.
These Cree lights were actually useless as standard because they had three settings: high, low and flash. Therefore, they would have changed each time the main was switched back on.
Luckily I found a link on You Tube to a guy n the States who posted how to stop the lights from changing modes.
You simply unscrew the lens and locate the U2 diode on the circuit board, select a decent flat-head screwdriver, and snap the diode off. Hey-presto, you now have just High setting.
If anybody else wants a couple of spots for �17.50 with free postage from China I'll send the link on how to convert them.
Cheers,
Taylori.

taylori 09-04-16 11:32
Cree U5 mode conversion to high beam only.
 
http://youtu.be/I59yW9o2Cys

Pleiades 09-04-16 11:43
Good stuff. Be good to post some photos of the finished installation.

taylori 13-04-16 11:39
u5 Cree photos
 
Don't seem to be able to upload any photos. Maybe because I'm on I pad. ???

Pleiades 13-04-16 20:39
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylori (Post 220561)
Don't seem to be able to upload any photos. Maybe because I'm on I pad. ???
Unlikely.

In order to embed images in a post they first need to be hosted somewhere on the web. Just about any image hosting site will do, but Photobucket seems to be the preferred choice.

Once you've uploaded your images to a hosting site, all you need to do is obtain the URL (direct link) of the image(s) and copy them (the direct link/URL must end with .jpg or it won't work). Then, back on the forum, create your post and click on the "Insert Image" button. In the dialogue box that opens just paste the URL of the image you wish to embed and click OK. Repeat this process for each image URL.

greatescape 06-08-16 22:16
Nice instructive write up Pepsi. ..I'm going to do a similar thing as my front indicators are in my handguards now. Can I ask a favour. ..can you post a shot of the front of the bike.....Steve

greatescape 07-08-16 14:17
Cheers Pepsi, just the job! , and hopefully lights up those drop-offs! Steve

DirkZ 07-08-16 19:52
Thanks for the nice and detailed input Pepsi.
I had cree spots on a previous bike fitted similarly to your setup (with a relay though) and have been delaying fitting spots to the Ten, because everyone fits them below the headlight on a special stainless or aluminum bracket that has to be bought or made.

Fitting them on the plastics is actually much easier and I'm going to rather do it like you did yours.

I used to ride with spots on during the day for safety here in S Africa, but the only problem I see with this setup is that they might make it difficult to see the indicator lights below them from the front. So I'll just leave them off during the day.

Desert Racer 08-08-16 03:37
Nice job Pepsi. After fitting some spots myself you realize just how dismal the factory headlight is.

greatescape 08-08-16 20:25
The Zeta handguards with built in indicators have proved themselves to be pretty durable. . certainly far far stronger than the original indicators on the Ten. I took them off the XR where they had been bashed by branches etc with no problems. Nice and bright too...the space where the indicators went will be perfect for some Desert Racer / Pepsi lights! Steve

greatescape 08-08-16 22:50
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...pswc5hdmi6.jpg Hi Pepsi, I'll take a couple of more detailed pics tomorrow. ..if..Steve

Desert Racer 09-08-16 13:12
Barkbusters also do indicator & side light as accessories for their handguards too.

Ferg 26-10-18 12:01
Xt660 HID headlights
 
1 Attachment(s)
I�ve had 55W HID lamps on high and low beam for the last 8 years, as the halogen weren�t bright enough when off road or on a Broad in the middle of nowhere at night.

I just soldered two of the switch (hi-low beam switch. On handlebar) connections together, this stopped one bring on complete darkness between high and low beam.

HID50.com guys are brilliant and so is their kit.
https://www.hid50.com

Attached are some photos of the ballast; just replaced a non - HID50 ballast with a spare HID50 unit, notice how slim it is.

Used heavy duty 3M Velcro, make it�s easier when removing tank.

Just make sure you remove sticky backing from velcro, and use Araldite to attached to tank underside and ballast.


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