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-   -   How long does your battery last uncharged? ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24977)

keithy2 07-12-15 13:20

How long does your battery last uncharged?
 
I may have a problem, I have now had my battery replaced under warranty as the first one died, The new one lasts approx one and a half weeks before it does not have enough charge to start the bike. the dealer says all modern batteries are crap and this is normal. My bike is a 2013 model with a factory immobilser as standard. I do have an oxford optimser 900 but still think a bike battery should last longer than this uncharged. I am worried as if next year if i ride to spain and have a weeks beach holiday the bike may not start for the return trip. the voltage had dropped to 10.7 volts after one and a half weeks. Your thoughts please.

steveD 07-12-15 13:44

I leave mine for months at a time and never charge it. Starts first time1 Now I have a n other smaller bike thgs period could be longer, never had a problem. Bike is '09 and still on original battery and I do load it up with 'extras'.

Steve.

cca 07-12-15 15:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by keithy2 (Post 216551)
the dealer says all modern batteries are crap and this is normal.

No, it is not normal.
But, maybe you should check for some drain? Just to be sure.

Richlybow 07-12-15 17:45

Nice of the dealer to fill you with confidence....if he thinks they're that crap why doesn't he do something about it?

Pleiades 07-12-15 18:02

This is most definitely NOT normal.

I still have (crap ;) ) OE Yuasa battery on my 2008 XTZ and it starts first time every time without fail even when left for several weeks during the winter. I do put it on an Optimate now and again on the rare occasion its left for a month or more in the winter.

As cca suggests, check to see if there is a spurious current drain when the bike is left standing. When the immobiliser's LED is flashing the current drain should only be a few mA and when it's in stand by mode (not flashing) it will be even less. Yours must be more than this? I see you have a USB charging point fitted - you do realise that most of these draw current even when nothing is plugged into them so really need to be ignition switched or have some other means of turning them off when not in use. Is it connected direct to the battery?

To check for current drain, disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and connect the probes of a multimeter set to read 20A between the lead and battery post. Gradually one stage at a time check the display and if no reading is present then reduce the setting in steps from 20A down to 500mA each time checking to see if there is a reading. When you get a reading stop and make a note of it and let us know what it is.

DO NOT turn the ignition on at any point whilst doing this. DO NOT take a short cut and start at 500mA either in case there is a big current drain you are unaware of.

TBH, the above test should have been the first thing any good mechanic/dealer technician would have done when you first took the bike in with battery problems. They should have also checked the charging current and voltage too - did they?

fridolin 07-12-15 19:09

I never charge my OE battery. Even during winter time when the bike stands outside for months.

DaleC 08-12-15 10:47

Not been here forever.... however, on reading this, I was astonished at being able to fire up my 2008 XTR after sitting for more than 12 months in an unheated garage with temps down to -10C last winter. :coolsmiley:

I have no optimate connected and it is the original battery.

My Ducati 749 on the other hand, doesn't last more than 3 weeks, even in summer! I think I have spent more on batteries than fuel! :icon_scratch:

keithy2 08-12-15 18:17

battery life
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 216560)
This is most definitely NOT normal.

I still have (crap ;) ) OE Yuasa battery on my 2008 XTZ and it starts first time every time without fail even when left for several weeks during the winter. I do put it on an Optimate now and again on the rare occasion its left for a month or more in the winter.

As cca suggests, check to see if there is a spurious current drain when the bike is left standing. When the immobiliser's LED is flashing the current drain should only be a few mA and when it's in stand by mode (not flashing) it will be even less. Yours must be more than this? I see you have a USB charging point fitted - you do realise that most of these draw current even when nothing is plugged into them so really need to be ignition switched or have some other means of turning them off when not in use. Is it connected direct to the battery?

To check for current drain, disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and connect the probes of a multimeter set to read 20A between the lead and battery post. Gradually one stage at a time check the display and if no reading is present then reduce the setting in steps from 20A down to 500mA each time checking to see if there is a reading. When you get a reading stop and make a note of it and let us know what it is.

DO NOT turn the ignition on at any point whilst doing this. DO NOT take a short cut and start at 500mA either in case there is a big current drain you are unaware of.

TBH, the above test should have been the first thing any good mechanic/dealer technician would have done when you first took the bike in with battery problems. They should have also checked the charging current and voltage too - did they?

Ok i have disconneted all accesories and taken a amp reading from the battery post to the red power cable, ignition swithched off. I got a momentary reading of 0.045 amp then the multimeter returns to zero, I dont know why ? the gas engineer was in the garage with me and I tried his meter which only has an amp setting his read 4.5. The battery voltage is 12.7 volts as i went a 150 mile ride yesterday. The mechanic checked it was charging and said the battery was low, ( I had only ridden 6 miles after putting enough charge in to start it)

keithy2 08-12-15 19:01

battery life
 
have checked the current between pos battery and USB pos terminal got a reading of 35.7 mill amp, spotlights are a very recent addition and this problem I suspect has been since the bike was new before any mods were added.

keithy2 08-12-15 21:10

battery life
 
With the ignition switched off, ive just checked each fuse in the fuse box by removing each fuse and checking for a reading across the fuse terminals the only fuse that gave a current reading was fuse 7 radiator fuse 1.58 mill amp when I touched the terminals something triggered in the fan area and heard a slight movement. Dont know if this is relevant?

Pleiades 08-12-15 22:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by keithy2 (Post 216576)
With the ignition switched off, ive just checked each fuse in the fuse box by removing each fuse and checking for a reading across the fuse terminals the only fuse that gave a current reading was fuse 7 radiator fuse 1.58 mill amp when I touched the terminals something triggered in the fan area and heard a slight movement. Dont know if this is relevant?

That might be? If the fan, or more likely the fan relay is leaking voltage to earth due to a faulty diode, it might relevant to your problem. There shouldn�t be any current flowing here with the ignition off. Does removing and replacing the fuse have the same effect (cause something click)?

Quote:

Originally Posted by keithy2 (Post 216573)
have checked the current between pos battery and USB pos terminal got a reading of 35.7 mill amp

35.7 mA might not sound like much but is a pretty significant drain. With the stock 8 Ah battery, 35.7mA is enough to completely flatten it in 224 hours, or more relevantly, in about nine days.

First I would suggest doing what you already have, namely disconnecting all the aftermarket accessories, and then see how you get on. Then, if that doesn�t prove anything, take out the fuse 7 whenever the bike is left standing for a while and see if that makes a difference.

keithy2 09-12-15 11:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 216580)

35.7 mA might not sound like much but is a pretty significant drain. With the stock 8 Ah battery, 35.7mA is enough to completely flatten it in 224 hours, or more relevantly, in about nine days.

First I would suggest doing what you already have, namely disconnecting all the aftermarket accessories, and then see how you get on. Then, if that doesn’t prove anything, take out the fuse 7 whenever the bike is left standing for a while and see if that makes a difference.

Hi I have removed number 7 fuse and there is a sound when it is replaced not a click more like a rustle the fan blade does not move when i do this.

It sounds like the USB socket could be a likely candidate i will leave it disconnected and the lights as well. I will also take a voltage reading every day to monitor the battery. Fuse 7 has been reinserted . Thanks for your advice I will keep my fingers crossed.:clock:

bonjo 24-12-15 19:10

just to give you another perspective, my 2009 is still on the original battery and done 9kmiles since new.

Now this is despite me disconnecting the battery for 18 months (took the bike off the road) and not charging it during that period (naughty me!)

keithy2 27-12-15 19:42

sorted
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 216580)

35.7 mA might not sound like much but is a pretty significant drain. With the stock 8 Ah battery, 35.7mA is enough to completely flatten it in 224 hours, or more relevantly, in about nine days.

Success:icon_smile: I have just checked the battery after 7 days without running the bike and the voltage is still 12.6v. This is due to not having the usb terminals connected to the battery:D Thank you Peliades I will now fit a switch into the usb power lead.

Pleiades 27-12-15 22:06

:023: Result. I'm happy it's something simple and cheap for you to sort out and there's nothing wrong with your bike.


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