Hi everyone first time poster (be gentle ha)
i'm trying to fix the annoying modes aswell but when i took the units apart i found no u2 chip and a board that looks entirely different from the ones above. Anyone have any ideas? TIA
https://attachment.outlook.office.ne...live.com&isc=1

I'd suggest you take out the two screws and remove the circuit board. It is quite possible that the U2 chip is soldered onto the other side of the board. You don't seem to have as many components on your circuit board as the others which leads me to believe some are on the other side?

good thinking, but no luck :(

Oh well, back to the drawing board then.

The only thing I can suggest that might help is that, being as there is no 8-pin chip in a 'U2' slot (the others seem to have 2x ICs, one in the 'U1' and one in the 'U2' slots) and it still has three modes, the only component on the circuit board in your picture that can be responsible for the mode switching is the 6-pin chip in the 'U1' slot as it is the only integrated circuit (coded U) there is. All the other components are resistors (coded R), capacitors (Cs), diodes (Ds), a transistor (Qs) and a power inductor (Ls). The big question is what you would need to do to that chip in order to disable the modes...?

Begs the slightly daft question... has it has actually got three modes?

Ha yes I checked and unfortunately it does have the 3 modes.
Ok that's a lot clearer now (sort of ha) I have have verrrry basic electrical knowledge y'see. But if I'm correct would it be worth it/safe to bridge some of the pins on the u1 chip and then if successful, as mentioned earlier in the post, solder the pins?

You could try bridging the pins and see what happens, however without knowing what the chip is, I wouldn't like to suggest where to start.

I can't see from the photo, but has the chip got any numbers, letters or markings on it?

Hi
I'm also trying to do this but does not work with my leds.
I discovered that shorting the c2 capacitor after power off the mode is reseted, looks like looses memory and starts with full beam, but with power it does not work, It cannot be shorted with power...
I made a continuous test with my multimeter and draw the picture:
(don't wory about the left side I'm not using that led)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sl...y=w966-h920-no
https://goo.gl/photos/KQVkFg62RFNjJSdVA

Shorting the capacitor, as you've found, will dump the memory. Are you trying to short it temporarily with a fly lead, or have you tried permanently shorting it?

Anyhow, your circuit board is one of the easier ones to deal with. Just take out the chip in the U2 slot and it will revert to the high beam mode all the time. It would appear that you don't actually need to solder a resistor between pins 1 and 3 as in the OP.

This video shows what to do in a slightly ham-fisted way and it's quite amusing too as the chap sounds just like Cleveland from Family Guy!

On further reflection I think the culpit on your circuit board might be the transistor in the Q1 position. Your board looks remarkably simplar in terms of components as the board in the cree three-mode flashlight here. The fix in this case was to ground pin 1 of the transistor to enable full beam only. This maybe worth a try?

Removing the U2 does not do anything to the main led.
The permanent shorting of the capacitor does not work because the led wont turn on.
Also tried removing the Q5 and connecting it directly works but it is draining 4 times the normal amount of amps, and I don't know if it will burn the led of anything else so if nothing more works maybe it will be the thing to do.
I have a lab power supply and it tells me how much amps it is consumes:
At 6v
Max mode: 0,4a
Min mode: 0,2a
strobe: betwen 0,2 and 0,4

And if I conect it direcly it consumes 2A. isn't it a lot?