Blowing a fuse
 

Last week I had an issue with my indicators stopped working, as pointed out, it was fuse number one that had blown.

I changed the fuse, removed the heated grips that seemed to be connected up to it all, checked the indicators, everything was working fine.

Takes the bike out tonight, indicators not working again, I haven't checked yet, but assume it's the same fuse gone again, so any ideas why, they were working fine with the ignition on, but fire the bike up and the fuse blows again ???

Check the fuse and report back. Are the sidelights (on the same fuse/circuit) still working? If they aren't then it's the fuse again.

If this is the case then it sounds like there may be a short somewhere causing the fuse to blow when the engine is running which will need to be investigated. It could be that there is a cross-over/short between the headlamp circuit and the side lamp/indicator circuit? Likely places for this to happen are in the handlebar switch assembly or in the main loom under the tank.

You could narrow things down by replacing fuse 1 again (if it's gone) and removing the headlamp fuse (fuse 3) before you start the engine again. Then see if the indicators work...

Fuse deffo blown again. The indicators are working after removing fuse 3.

Can you confirm that without headlight fuse 3 in place the indicators (and hazards) work with and without the engine running and fuse 1 stays intact?

If the answer to the above is yes, then just to make double sure, replace fuse 3 and try the indicators again with and without the engine running to see if fuse 1 blows again. If it does, then we�ve narrowed down the issue to a common short between the headlight and indicator circuit which will have to be found.

OK, did everything you ask. Firstly though I disconnected the old hard wired sat nav as it was also part of it. So replace fuse 1, check indicators are working fine without engine on.

Now starts engine test indicators and other lights, everything is working fine, take bike out literally 300 yards, indicators not working and fuse 1 is blown again.

Seems when the bike gets going something is blowing the fuse.

OK, so we can rule out the engine running being an issue and the headlight theory. It almost certainly looks like you've got a straight forward short to earth (most probably a frayed wire) somewhere in either the indicator circuit, or more likely the sidelight circuit which shares fuse 1. When the bike moves off the movement/vibrations cause the bare core of the wire to make contact with the frame and shorts out the circuit.

The only thing for it is to go through every wire in the sidelight and indicator circuit and visually check to see where the problem is. This will almost certainly need the tank to be removed.

I can give you some pointers to common areas of abrasion to check first:

1. The front sidelight wires behind the plastic cover beneath the dash - they can get trapped/nipped up when the cover is refitted. They can also get trapped between the fairing subframe and the cowling.
2. Front indicator wires from the grey plastic panels to behind the headlight - again they can get trapped/pinched when the panels are refitted.
3. Indicator/tail light wires from just beside the battery inside the LH top frame rail to the rear of the bike - can get trapped by the undertray and tail piece.
4. Wires/connections into the numberplate lamp - can break due to fatigue and corrode because of direct contact with road spray.
5. Main loom under the tank along the RH frame rail - well known for abrasion and fraying.
6. Check wires to all accessories and/or where they have been removed - be wary of any Scotchloks anywhere as they are notorious for breaking down where the insulation has been pierced and also if the fold-over flap is missing.

That'll give you something to do! ;)

Nice one, next big question is, how the feck does the tank come off.

I know two bolts under the seat, and I assume the side panels, then what though ??

Read the attached PDF file re: tank removal.

Thanks again.

Could it possibly something when I sit on the bike i.e. under the seat ??

Indeed it could. A trapped/abraded wire might only make contact and short on the frame when the seat is squashed against the frame/panels/tank.

It seems to pop the fuse as soon as I rev the engine when riding away.

I sit on it while engine running its fine, its fine at tick over, soon as I go to accelerate away, boom, fuse goes.

It still could be vibration causing a frayed wire to short to earth, but...

It could possibly be a dicky voltage regulator which is causing over voltage? Does your headlight seem abnormally bright? Does it get significantly brighter when you rev the motor? Does the dash backlighting vary in brightness with engine speed?

If you have a multimeter then check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine (and ignition off), then at idle and finally when reving the engine at >4000 rpm. Let us know what the readings are. You should not get more than 14-14.4V even when bouncing the motor off the rev limiter.

It could also be a failed diode(s) in the rectifier (part of the same unit) causing AC voltage to leak through into the system which can get as high a 60V off a three phase alternator. The above voltage check should highlight either problem if it that.

Nothing gets any brighter or vary in brightness when engine is revved.

I don't own a meter, and wouldn't know how to use one, so that will be for over the weekend now and get someone who does and knows what they are doing to check.

If you're not confident or don't have the equipment then it may well be worth paying a visit to your local auto-electrician.

A simple rev of the engine is blowing them, so will get someone who knows how to work one to have a looky.

Charging system checked and all is well with that.

We then unplugged each indicator individually and replugged, a fuse then blew when plugging in front right, so we thought we had found the problem, however, with that remaining unplugged and a new fuse in, the ignition was turned on again, and another fuse blew.

Indicator relay ?????? is now the theory, thoughts on this ????

Scratch that relay theory, just changed relays and it popped again as soon as the ignition was turned on.

There'll be a short somewhere. Patience and going through everything with a fine-tooth comb is all that's required. Keep at it and you'll find it.

Don't forget to check the sidelight circuit too.

:smilies0944:

Just to add, the fuse one is blowing with fuse 3 removed, despite that not being the case earlier.