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XT660R broken regulator/rectifier and MOSFET conversion
Had a flat battery last fall in my 2007 XT660R. Don�t know if it was due to forgetting to switch off all accessories or if it had been badly charged lately, or maybe a combination. The bike didn't charge properly after jump-starting it and died on me a couple of miles later. The battery charged just fine after hauling it back home, and now starts good. Battery is a Motobatt AGM <2 years and doesn't loose charge in a drastic way when left alone disconnected (went from 12,95V fully charged to 12,73V in about 1,5 weeks). No current leakage when measuring Amps between plus pole with ignition off.
BUT my regulator/rectifier measures 13,99V @ 5000 RPM over the poles. Never goes past 14,0V. Specs says its shall be 14,1-14,9V. I guess its starting to break down after 16000 km, and I want to replace it before this summers touring. Has anyone else converted to a MOSFET R/R? Only find information about XT660Z Those crappy OEM ones will die on me sooner or later again. :Christo_pull_hair: |
In the service manual Yamaha specifies 14.0V at 5000 RPM as normal charging voltage. I get 13,99-14,0V at around 5000 RPM.
And regulated voltage is specified as 14,1-14,9V no-load. I guess Haynes specifications fooled me a bit, as I was expecting 14,1-14,9V on battery poles. Guess its no point changing any regulator then. Would it be correct to assume that the bike acted weird due to a flat battery caused by drainage from connected accessories, and that it wouldn't charge due to being jump started from flat charge status? |
My 2004 XTR suffered from something similar, for quite a while.
There where no problems when i travelled, but using it mainly in Lima City traffic, i died on me. Well, 1rst thought was on the battery so i bought a new one. For about 2 weeks everything went well, `til it died again in mid trafic. OK, can`t be the battery, so i checked the rectifier, ending up changing it. (fortunately i have a ton of spares for the bike) Recharged the (new) battery again and off we went. Nevertheless, i had to charge the battery every once in a while (2 weeks) and i thought the problem may just be to be stucked in traffic while the engine revs at idle and head-, breaklights where on. Finaly i checked the generator resistance. Voil�! Coil resistance supposed to be anywhere arround 2.2 - 3.3 ohms at 20C. It turned out to sit between 8 - 10 ohms, depending on which coil i checked. So finaly i ripped the generator from my spare engine, checked (~3 ohms) and replaced the faulty one. RESULT! It never came into my mind, that the generator might be faulty, neither ever heard of a similar problem. I even tried the "old" battery and it works just fine again. Indicators or differences between faulty and good generator that i realized, are: *coil resistance (should be ~2.2 - 3.3 ohm) *yellowish headlight (now bright again) *engine has to crank a couple of times before it starts (now starts again on first turn) *low battery capacity (after 2 - 3 failed start attempts the battery is down) *engine performs "funny" Hope this may be helpfull to anybody in a similar situation. Had to buy a new multi tester to realize the tiny difference in coil resistance. :076: |
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Did the charging volt from the rectifier deliver according to specification? In the troubleshooting Yamaha states that if charging voltage is 14,0V @ 5000 RPM, its all good. Mine was more or less the same from 2500-5000 RPM, but don�t remember the value when idle. Will check the stator coil resistance anyway. Note that my battery did not drain during running the bike, it was drained when stored and probably forgot to flip the switch that cuts the positive pole for all connected electronics (GPS cradle, 2x USB-chargers, battery charge indicator + fast connector for charger, headed grips etc). Yamaha troubleshooting: http://i.imgur.com/5A2acIw.jpg |
Charging voltage was more or less in specification, at least voltage rose during acceleration. Terefore i didn`t check the generator resistance.
By the way, i made a mistake here: 2.2 - 3.3 ohms at 20C. It turned out to sit between 8 - 10 ohms it supposed to be 0.22 - 0.33 and sat at 0.8 to 1.0 regards and good luck, Joe |
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