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All depends what's stuck to what... If the bolt turns but won't come out its probably corroded onto the collar in the bearing in which case brute force is the only way its coming out. Had something similar on my lads RM125 and had to cut the bolt by getting a junior hacksaw between frame and seal ... right effing job. Diesel is also worth trying as a release agent though.
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Remove all corrosion on the visible parts of the bolt and apply cooper grease before trying to knock it back in. If you do manage to knock it back in you can use a strip of emery cloth to clean the remaining portions of the bolt. You can get to it in the gap created by removing the relay arm. Clean the corrosion off in small stages and lubricate the bolt with copper grease before trying to move it again (in or out). Also check that you have not deformed the threaded end of the bolt so much that it will not pass through the hole anymore. If this is the case it may need to be cut out! It's a big bolt so should be okay but worth checking. I did mine last summer and it was a proper barsteward. When you do get it out, remember to clean and lubricate the holes in the frame before trying to install the new bolt. Another thing to do at this point is clean and inspect your relay arm for cracks. My 2011 relay arm was covered in them at 3000 miles. I'll try to get a photo and upload to show you what I mean. Good luck! Sandman. |
I can get the nut off but the bolt is completely stuck, I've tried to get a socket on the head of the bolt with a large bar but it's a thin head so keeps slipping off. I've already battered the nut that much it's now stripped the threads and the bolts not shifted.
I might try and lie the bike over on its rhs one evening and just full the nut cut out in the frame with wd40 and get my sledge hammer and drift out. I've already ordered a new bolt so once this ones out it's staying out |
Whatever you try, the biggest problem to overcome is how to prevent all the energy you apply with a hammer (however big) from dissipating through the frame rather than through the pivot bolt alone. Try to do it with the bike upright and you�ll never keep the frame still enough and half the energy from the hammer blow will be absorbed/transferred away from the stubborn pivot bolt.
You will have to lay it on its side (after removing the footrest and brake pedal and probably other bits too) then pack out between the frame and floor with blocks of wood. This way all the force from the hammer blows will be directed through the pivot bolt alone. An even better solution would be to insert a length of steel pipe into the recess in the frame around the bolt head and rest the bike on the pipe. This won�t give/flex at all and you�ll get maximum value out of what energy you put in. |
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Does anyone know the size, pitch and spacing of the swing arm pivot bolt?
I checked my old xtr/x manual and it says 16mm with 2mm pitch and I got and old 16mm nut to help trying to drift the old bolt out and it's a really tight fit. checked a new nut on the new bolt and you get about 1/2 a theead on before it needs tightened with a socket!! |
Well the bolt is truly stuck, I had the bike on its side for over a week with wd40 on the nut end to try and let it penetrate, I've tried to drift it out and also tried a local mechanics to use an air rattle gun that takes lorry wheel nuts off but nothing!!!
At the moment it's not stopping the bike from working but is a bit of a pain not being able to get it out |
Maxwell, did you eventually get this all sorted?
I'm just about to start mine. |
HarryP, did you and or Maxwell get it solved?
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