Interesting that. Can anyone else with a later model Ten confirm that the additional pad stuck to the frame is an official Yamaha improvement?

If it is, it would mean that (as Desert Racer suggests) Yamaha are aware of the injector wiring is a problem. Which therefore begs the question why they haven't advised dealers, or at instructed them to retro-fit the pad to earlier bikes?

If you poke a finger up the inside frame where the two frame tubes intersect behind the tank, you can easily feel if a foam pad has been fitted without taking the tank off. I already had mine off as to re-locate my O2 eliminator next to the throttle cables out the way.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf2b5e35d.jpg

Just for info, I've just had the Swing arm & Head set apart for greasing (even though the bike hasn't covered 2000kms from new yet) as I've heard of Yamaha being a bit light handed with the grease gun.

Swing arm main pivot was good (probably would have done 12 months) but the linkages where a bit dry.
Steering head top bearing was good but bottom one was dry.
The bonus was though that my old DRZ Steering head spanner also fits the Tenere which makes life easy.

It may be worth considering loosening the Swing arm main pivot bearing occasionally & spinning it in place to help prevent it from ceasing in there, rather than having to bash it out with a hammer, & having to go & get another nut & bolt, just a thought. :047:

Cheers Ken

Had a go at the Cush Rubbers today as there was a bit of movement starting in the sprocket carrier.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...89397bf770.jpg
There was still a small bit of movement so I put another piece of inner tube in against the smaller blocks next to the hub.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...95e86eae2a.jpg
Now the sprocket carrier is firmed up nicely.
On measuring the depth of the lugs that go between the rubber blocks they are about 25mm & the depth inside the hub itself is about 35mm. So the sprocket carrier lugs are only sitting against a half to two thirds of the Cush rubbers. Maybe that's why they get destroyed so quickly. Hopefully now I won't have to touch them again for a fair while. ( Thanks to Kev ).

I couldn't get my hands on any ACR 50 so I used this on the spokes instead,
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...8074aa10b9.jpg
The write up sounded as though it would achieve the some thing as ACR.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...3f1756e6fe.jpg
It does stay tacky for a while so probably best to leave it overnight before going anywhere dusty.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...6f5a57f724.jpg
All done & ready to go.

The other useful thing I learned today after struggling before is you don't have to touch the chain adjusters when you remove the back wheel ! Which makes life a lot easier. Doh.

Hi Desert Racer, great write up. I was finding various bits of loom rubbing yesterday when I had the tank off. Seeing how clean + shiny your spokes and wheel are has made me ashamed of mine!! I shall put a bit more effort in! Steve

Dirt has no shame!