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Sprocket carrier bearing ..
Mine gave up today , was on my way back home from a ride and started to hear a strange noise . Checked it over when i got home and there's a nasty noise when i turn the wheel and play in the sprocket carrier ..
Anyone know the bearing dimentions ? |
I've found the size but there seems to be options .
Whats the best one to get from this list ? Think i'll get a spare too .. http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/adv...04-2rs&x=0&y=0 Will i need to renew the seal ? If so what size ? |
Just avoid C3 high clearance bearings - they have built in play/slop from new! ;)
I tend to use SKF bearings, but that's just personal preference. If the seal is at all damaged or has gone hard, then it'll need replacing, but even if it looks OK, it's probably prudent to replace it given the cost. Don't quote me, but as far as I can recall it's a 7mm wide seal... |
http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co...%20wheel?uID=0
Bearing seals are on this page. Not too cheap for a bit of rubber. For SKF bearings, get them from bearing boys. �26 delivered for the whole set. Front and rear: http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/6203-2R...Bearing-1889-p Sprocket carrier: http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/6304-2R...Bearing-1930-p Then, do your own greasing: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=19728 |
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These are the wheel bearing dimensions:
Hub bearings : 6203-2RS Sprocket carrier: 6304-2RS Seals: 23 x 40 x 7 disc side rear. 30 x 52 x 7 on the sprocket carrier. I've just replaced mine (preventative maintenance!) with SKF sourced from a local bearing factor - total cost for the full rear (three bearings and two seals) was �25. The fronts are also 6203-2RS and two 23x40x7 seals. |
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Important info every Ten owner should have. Thanks! (still taking mine to a mechanic to get them changed.... not sure I'm up to the task!) |
Just about to replace the bearings on my wheels and have found the correct SKF bearings on the bearingboys website but can't seem to find the seals. I know what the sizes are from the above posts, but does anyone know if the seals on the tenere are the R21 (single lip) or R23 (twin lip) type?
Also, anyone know anywhere else to get the seals online as simplybearings and bearingboys don't have the 23x40x7 seal in stock? Cheers, Al |
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me too
just got back from a 3 week tour of scandinavia and my rear wheel bearing gave up the ghost in bumble **** Denmark. damn thing smashed to pieces during a hard, banked turn and nearly bucked me off. major brown trouser time!
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Anyone looking for the seals - I've just ordered them from Lancashire seals here:
Disc Side: 23x40x7mm Sprocket side: 30x52x7mm �8.55 delivered for the full set front and rear. Thanks for the help guys! |
Hey guys, am just about to have my sprocket carrier lathed out to hold the 4304-2RS double row bearing. Some have suggested lathing 5mm. Problem is the difference between the standard 6304-2RS and the new bearing is 6mm. Guess 6mm machining it is then for me. Anyone experience similar differences?
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Also my sprocket carrier where the bearing sits in is quite warn. The bearing slips in and out easily. Am going to use retaining compound medium strength to hold it firmly in place. Have some poly urethane rubbers to go in so looking forward to feeling the difference.
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I want to do some preventative maintenance as well and I'm thinking of replacing all the bearings on the bike. This way I will know what mileage they have on them in the future.
What I have so far is the two bearings on the front wheel, the two in the handlebars/forks, the two in the rear wheel and then two in the swing arm. Am I missing any? |
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There are two more in/under the swingarm where the dog bones mount to it and don't forget the six in the suspension linkage relay. Also you may need the two bushes to go with the two swingarm pivot bearing. You haven't mentioned the sprocket carrier bearing either. Do you REALLY need to replace them all? |
Probably not. I was thinking of changing the ones I mentioned for my peace of mind. I don't know if they were ever checked or replaced at the intervals stated in the manual. I'll also have to do the others you mentioned except for the suspension linkage relay. That will depend on how much work it is.
Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk |
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It is the headrace, swingarm, relay bearings that are the real issue on these bikes as, unless attended to early, will not last and (particularly the swingarm pivots) can be a real ball-ache to do if the swingarm through bolt gets seized in the bushes/inner races. Preventative maintenance is key to long service life. It is definitely worth putting in the effort here. My headrace, swingarm pivot bearing/bushes and the relay bearings are all original, 8 years old and have covered about 34K miles. I can only think they've done so well because I stripped it all down and greased them at around 10K miles. I've stripped them one further time (at about 22K) and they're were in far better nick than they were on the original strip down. I also removed all the crappy MPL solid lubricant the second time round too. Both times all the seals were replaced and waterproof grease used. I would recommend focussing any preventative bearing maintenance on headrace and swingarm/relay, especially if you don not know when it was done, if its ever been done at all? You will reap the benefits of your efforts in the long term. Ohlins wrote an excellent walkthrough guide on doing the swingarm and relay. Have a look and see what is involved: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=25584 |
Thanks Pleiades. Sensible reply, as always. I think I'll give it all a good clean and grease with the guide from Ohlins. That is a great guide indeed.
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