Total AIS removal
 

Hi

Im looking at removing the whole of the AIS on my Tenere, but i'm struggling to find info about doing the job

http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps863e3fd5.jpg

From what i can gather there seems to be three things to remove?

1. the plug on the top. do you just unplug it and leave it?
2. a black pipe that runs back towards the air box. i guess you just block the hole at the airbox?
3. a stainless pipe that runs down and round to the middle of the headers. i have the blanking plate for this. i guess the rad has to come off for access though?

Is that it?

The actually AIS is quite "nestled" in, i've had a quick poke around but its a bit of a mess in there and i'm not entirely sure if the bracket that holds it in place is needed to for other reasons? (like its attached to something else that is needed)

Any help will be much appreciated.

Tar

Just remove the plug, seal it up from dirt and water ingress, tuck it out the way and fastening it in place with cable ties.

This post, of uberthumper's, shows a clear picture of everything that needs to be removed.

If I remember the AIS unit is just rubber mounted. I just tugged it out. Leaves a nice big hole.

OK then , stop talking KLINGON :072: what the hells a AIS ? whats it do ? and why get rid ?

Phil

i removed it from my Fazer but it was totally different

Phil - Air Induction System (i think?) it adds air to unburnt gases for emissions reasons, hence the "popping" noise.

Cheers

If you manage to remove it. I am interested to know how much it weighs in at

459g according to Uberthumpers post. its not just weight, it frees up space and stops the popping.

It doesnt look a hard job, just looks a bit of a ***** of a job. Plus i reckon the Rad is going to have to come off. But seems im doing a service and the bike is half stripped down, i might as well do it.

leave my popping alone i love me popping

how can i make it pop more :bike:

I like the popping but the engine does run smoother too. I find it behaves better in 2000 to 3000 range. And also it's over complicates maintenance.

You need to make a blanking plate to cover the hole in the head. I cut mine by hand from 3mm ally. That bit's easy, fitting it might not be. I cheated a bit, in that I had the engine out at the time. Getting at the bolts holding the pipe onto the head might be a faff in the frame.

You will need to block off the hole in the airbox somehow. I rearranged my crank breather at the same time, so I just tee'd the two hoses together, because it was simple. You could just leave a stub of hose on the airbox, then stick a plug in it, or you could glue something into the airbox itself.

The actual solenoid valve just pulls off its mounting bracket, and unplugs from the loom. The bracket has to stay as it holds the coil and the vacuum sensor(?) as well.

That's all.