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Tenere running problems

Hi everyone

I have a 2008 tenere and love the thing! It has however developed a very annoying problem which I can't seem to solve. It started about six months ago, the bike basically develops a stutter at high revs and once it starts won't rev above 4k without the problem occurring. It has on several occasions caused the bike to stop running altogether (it will start and tick over but not rev any higher). If I leave it for a while it will sometimes start back up and then act perfectly normal??
I have recently fitted an Akropovic twin pipe (the one that was a dealer option) a DNA stage 1,2&3 filter and a power commander v. The bike won't run at all when warm now, it just cuts out when I try to accelerate. I am wondering if the increased air and fuel flow has made my problem worse? The power commander is mapped for DNA stage 3 with standard pipes, does anyone know where I can get the correct map for my filter and pipe set up?
I really don't know where to start to try and fix my bike and I'm missing not being out on it all the time!
I know there are people on here that know these bikes inside out and I'm hoping that someone may be able to give me a few ideas to what my problem may be?

Many thanks

John

If its got an o2 censer check the header pipe is not fractured.I had the same fault with a BUELL.:smilies0979:

I've checked the header pipe and there are no apparent problems. Is the O2 sensor part of the AIS system? I haven't made any changes to this yet, but am thinking of blocking it as the bike pops a lot with the Akros on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spireite1 (Post 185609)

I have recently fitted an Akropovic twin pipe (the one that was a dealer option) a DNA stage 1,2&3 filter and a power commander v.

What map do you have ?

The stage 1,2 & 3 lets in ALOT of air, and you'll need your map correct or you'll have problems. Although I don't think this is the cause of your problems.

I would give the HT lead a check, and the plug - these things do break down and could be one possible explanation of your problems. And the easy one to check!

The side stand switch is worth checking too, but this would kill the bike dead, as in it would turn over but no hint of a start. It could be breaking down under high revs (due to vibration), it's possible, but I'm not convinced.

Next stop I'd check the fuel pump/tank for blockages.

Got to go, Beef needs slicing!!

Check the coil. Misfiring under load, or at high revs, or when hot, intermittent problem - often caused by a faulty coil. Worth checking or substituting, and it's a relatively cheap fix.

Thanks for the replies guys, gives me a few things to have a look at!

I was thinking of replacing the coil, HT lead and plug cap anyway as the standard ones look very poor quality for a bike that is designed to be used off road and in bad weather. Can anyone recommend suitable replacements that will be a bit more durable?

I have the correct map for my filter set up, but not my pipes. This problem started before I made any mods to the bike but seems to have increased after the filters were fitted. I will probably strip the fuel system too and check for any problems.

Thanks again guys, I will update as soon as I've had time to strip the bike down and have a good look!

When you say it started happening before the mods, did you already have the Akras fitted, and by mods do you mean the filters and PC? The reason I ask is your symptoms correspond to those of a blocked exhaust. Or blocked air intake for that matter, but I’d rule that out on the basis that you’ve just fitted new filters - unless you accidentally left something in the air-box of course! ;)

The Yamaha dealer supplied Akras have cats and it is not unheard of for cats to break free in their chamber, rattle around, wear themselves into a ball shape and then eventually fall into the link pipe/collector. If this happens it can be intermittent, particularly to start with, as the broken cat sometimes sits in a position which lets gas through and at others blocks it, plus they move about as you throttle on/off. Eventually it may lodge permanently somewhere, or even get small enough to be blown out the tailpipe (if you’ve not got any baffles). The left hand cat could fall into the collector pipe and block both tailpipes, the right and one is more likely to just block the right hand pipe.

At tick-over and at small throttle openings a partially blocked exhaust system will flow enough gas to allow the bike to run, but not at high rpm. If you fit free flowing filters and get more air into the motor the symptoms of a blocked or partially blocked exhaust will get worse.

Did you notice any abnormal rattles from the exhaust system when this initially started happening? Might be worth taking the tail pipes off, give them a shake and see if they are clear. Check the rest of the system is clear also. If the baffles are in, their worth a look too, mine initially trapped a lot of fibreglass packing material that got blown out of the silencers.

Other than that, (as above) check the fuel system (fuel pump, fuel pressure, blockages, restrictions etc) and also the fuel tank breather pipe is clear and not nipped up or trapped. Also check the throttle body, intake hose and pipework for vacuum leaks, particularly if you took any of the hoses off or disturbed the intake when fitting the stage 3 kit. Have you got any engine trouble warning light giving any fault codes?

Hope you get it sorted.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 185632)

When you say it started happening before the mods, did you already have the Akras fitted, and by mods do you mean the filters and PC? The reason I ask is your symptoms correspond to those of a blocked exhaust. Or blocked air intake for that matter, but I�d rule that out on the basis that you�ve just fitted new filters - unless you accidentally left something in the air-box of course! ;)

The Yamaha dealer supplied Akras have cats and it is not unheard of for cats to break free in their chamber, rattle around, wear themselves into a ball shape and then eventually fall into the link pipe/collector. If this happens it can be intermittent, particularly to start with, as the broken cat sometimes sits in a position which lets gas through and at others blocks it, plus they move about as you throttle on/off. Eventually it may lodge permanently somewhere, or even get small enough to be blown out the tailpipe (if you�ve not got any baffles). The left hand cat could fall into the collector pipe and block both tailpipes, the right and one is more likely to just block the right hand pipe.

At tick-over and at small throttle openings a partially blocked exhaust system will flow enough gas to allow the bike to run, but not at high rpm. If you fit free flowing filters and get more air into the motor the symptoms of a blocked or partially blocked exhaust will get worse.

Did you notice any abnormal rattles from the exhaust system when this initially started happening? Might be worth taking the tail pipes off, give them a shake and see if they are clear. Check the rest of the system is clear also. If the baffles are in, their worth a look too, mine initially trapped a lot of fibreglass packing material that got blown out of the silencers.

Other than that, (as above) check the fuel system (fuel pump, fuel pressure, blockages, restrictions etc) and also the fuel tank breather pipe is clear and not nipped up or trapped. Also check the throttle body, intake hose and pipework for vacuum leaks, particularly if you took any of the hoses off or disturbed the intake when fitting the stage 3 kit. Have you got any engine trouble warning light giving any fault codes?

Hope you get it sorted.

The problem started before the Akrapovic was fitted, but has worsened after the stage 3 kit was fitted. I hadnt done any work on the bike when it started. At first the bike would go for up to 500 miles between this happening, but it is really bad now. The first couple of times it happened were as I was accelerating to overtake cars, the bike then just lost all engine power and then when started wouldnt rev or pull off when the clutch released. I took it to my local dealer after it happened first time and no fault codes were showing, he took it for a test ride and said there is nothing wrong with it!!
I have taken the tank off tonight ready to look at the fuel system and I will also replace the HT lead, plug and cap. there are no strange noises in the engine when it is running ok, but it sounds really rough (like the timing is out) and pops like mad when the problem starts.

Thanks for taking the time to share your advice, it is really appreciated.

Could be the dreaded rec/regulator problem rearing its ugly head
Mate. Give it a try

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spireite1 (Post 185636)

I have taken the tank off tonight ready to look at the fuel system and I will also replace the HT lead, plug and cap.

While you've got the tank off check the valve clearances.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spireite1 (Post 185636)

there are no strange noises in the engine when it is running ok, but it sounds really rough (like the timing is out) and pops like mad when the problem starts.

Also check the auto decompression mechanism is functioning as it should; if its not and you've got an exhaust valve not seating properly it won't rev.

Start with the basic's, replace your spark plug, make sure the bike has fresh fuel.

I've already tried a new Iridium plug and it has had tanks of fuel through it since the problem started.

Im going to clean the fuel system, test the electrics and go from there. Might even take the bike back to standard spec to rule out a problem with the pipes or power commander.

Thanks for all your suggestions guys, looks like I'm in for a busy week!

You could always ask advise from a proper dealer.......not the idiots that say everything ok guv......and to me it sounds like electrical rather than fuel so coil/plug/plus leads etc would be my first port of call. Good luck!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by SimonRoma (Post 185658)

Cheers mate

I took the bike to my local Yamaha dealer (Arnolds in Burton) the first time and they said there is nothing wrong with it! To be fair to them no fault codes were showing and the bike was running fine when i collected it from them. I have a couple of hours spare now, so will check over the coil, ht lead and plug.

I would pull the tank off & check every electrical connector, pull them apart looking for corrosion, also check the main wiring loop that runs under the seat to the battery we have seen the loom rub through to the frame & cause short to earth problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kev (Post 185679)

The loom looks fine to me. I do keep getting the fuel gauge flashing constantly since I put the power commander on, checked all the connections to it this afternoon and they seem fine. The underlying problem started way before the commander was added though.
I'm thinking of taking the bike bike to standard and going from there, at least it will eliminate the pipes, filters and PC from the equation. I've bought a new NGK plug cap and plug, just need a decent HT lead (any recommendations?). My plan is to ride the bike until it starts to happen, change the plug, cap and lead at the roadside and see if it helps. Cold and damp weather seems to increase the problem, I think it has to be electrical. Is it ok to put a bit of silicone grease in electrical connections to help keep damp out?

Thanks for your help Kev, this is really starting to get me down now!

Use a low suppressed HT lead, if I remember right I used a 2500k on my XTX instead of the standard 6500K ohm HT lead.

My 2007 harley was fitted with 'race tuner' fuel management system. I started experiencing stalling and general rough riding conditions which required several expensive visits to the dealer for a variety of misdiagnosis. To make a long story short, the race tuner was faulty and once removed my problems disappeared. You may want to swap out your power commander, just to rule it out as the source of your problem. I wish I had done that $ooner.

This sounds to me like a fuel pump issue. I have a WR250R (2012) fitted with the later pump, and it fails intermittently with exactly the same symptoms as your bike exhibited initially. Most of the time, the WR runs fine, which means no chance of warranty until it fails completely.

Pumps do fail gradually at times, and my 250 is like this. A Chinese pump is in stock here at home ready to be fitted. I bought a spare Tenere one too. Total cost: about $90AUD.

The Chinese ones come with a new in-tank filter, too.

Regardless of what your issue is, I hope you get it sorted soon.

Similar problems

Hello buddies ..
I've got similar problems with my XT660Z.
riding at low speeds with the engine warm, the motorcycle begins to choke, failing losing acceleration. at some moments at high, 6000..6500 RPM she cuts without at least reaching 7000RPMs.
coincidence or not, soon began when I changed the stock exhaust for a LEOVINCE, and the only change was to close the injection of air into the exhaust to reduce the levels of carbon dioxide.
what do you think?

P.S .: excuse the English, I do not have socializing
best Regards

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToledoBrasil (Post 202031)

I have the same issue, on a stock XT660ZA 2015. Mine cuts off at 5.500 RPM, with one blink of the lights "ENGINE" (yellow) and "TEMPERATURE" (red).. Any ideas??