Squeakie
 

Hi all
Not been on the Tener Lady for a while ( renovating our house) thing is i moved her today and there's one HELL of a SQUEAK coming from around the back shock or swing arm pin!!!

I've read plenty of how crap the shock is and will be changing in good time, so if it's that now worries.

If it's the swing arm pin is the a easy way to do the job ? i've looked and can't see a nipple so looks like a pull apart job !!! if this is the case i'll fit a nipple , can't hurt !!

Suppose i'd best grease the head bearing while i'm at it.

Phil

Squeakie
 

Are you sure it's not the top shock mount because that is a notorious squeaky point. Also I've found that the centre stand pivots get squeaky too - they pivot with the suspension, as does the rubber pad resting on the swing arm - another source of squeaks!

yeah mine squeaks sometimes too...couldnt quite locate the squeak though. i know for a fact my swing arm & shock linkages are nicely greased up.

and no...there is no grease nipple. :sneeze:

WD40 all the way

"WD40 all the way "

First thing id did !!! but as Pleiades says i'll give the top mount a spraying, it's difficult to say where exactly the noise is coming from, but bloody anoying

Phil

You can grease up the rear linkages and swing arm pivot by removing one at a time so it's really easy. I suggest you do this sooner rather than later as my bike with only 5k on the clock (3yrs old) was just about bone dry - especially the swing arm pivot.

You need a centre stand though to take the weight off everything.

Head bearings were also dry.

You'll feel happier once it's all done.

Cheers enduro374
Got do it soon , it's doing my head in, probably will fit a nipple at the same time though , can't see why there isn't one as standard on all these type of bikes !!
My 23 year old DR250 has one , and they say we've moved forward !!!!

Cheers Phil

My XT600E (1994) has two. It baffles me why manufacturers have stopped fitting simple things like this, especially for bikes designed to be used in tough conditions.

Absoluely agree. Im just in the process of greasing up linkages now. Not so bad for the swingarm bolt but the one where the dog bones attach to the swingarm were getting stiff with virtually nil grease.
On re assembly of swingarm mind there is a spacer on a thread on right hand side of the inner part of the frame. I couldnt get swing arm on so I wound it in towards frame now I cant seem to get to it to tighten it back out to flush with swing arm. Not seen one of these before, so I must be doing something wrong, or doesnt it make much difference

bloomin annoying that is. you have to wind it out like you said, put the swing arm in then wind it in to take the slack. You do this from the out side of the frame by using an allen key...a weird sized allen key that no one has! :086:

i find the Ten is easy to work on....BUT, highly annoying!

See... thats why forums are great cheers. Mind if Id looked before asking I may have seen it hey !!! Unfortunately I dont have anything that size to do it up, so Ive wound it out a bit at a time until the swingarm goes back in snug, bolt in and tightened up. Should be ok like that Im hoping
Anyone know correct torque for swing arm nut ??

Chaps - you don't need to take the swingarm out to grease the main pivot bolt, just tap it out with everything still assembled and the bike on a centre stand (not a paddock stand).

Glad you confirmed that mate, it's what i was going to try.

Phil

92Nm

If you're a forum supporter you can download the workshop manual!!

I see that you are - so somewhere here you'll find the documents that are well worth downloading.

Cheers , yeah thats how I used to do my XR400 every oil change a quick grease up and job done, but while I'd got to that point it seemmed easier to get it off and have good access to all the other gubbins to be greased up also
Did look to see if I could find a download but couldnt seem to find anything????

Grease the swingarm pivot. Right now. One way or another you'll need to get it out eventually, and if it's not been greased since the factory's token effort you will have to resort to extreme measures...

http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...40828125_n.jpg

Now you're talking my language :thumbsup[1]: UT

My swingarm bolt was a pig,I got tired of belting it with a club hammer and drift and a bit nervous I was going to clout the engine case.
Took to it from the other side with a mains electric impact wrench after a good soaking in diesel and finally shifted it.

The worst bearing was the one where the relay arm attaches to the frame and iirc it was the only one I didn't grease when I stripped the relay arm and tie rods down back in 2009.

I've had a squeek and it came from the swingarm pivot outer dust cap area,the bearings where pretty dry,I'd never take the swing off till now but they are saveable at 32k miles

The adjusting nut to take up the gap between frame is pictured below which might be helpful. I knocked a socket extension bar into it to turn it to remove swingarm.

Outside view




http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8230/8...338a5fcc_b.jpg

Inside view




http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8229/8...6a768d62_b.jpg

I've got the fun of getting the knackered needle bearing out now.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8...ae3464a4_b.jpg

The problem I had was that it was seized in the bearing sleeves, not the engine cases. So it was spinning perfectly happily, just wouldn't slide out.

I see the need for brute force now.

I was belting mine so hard I was worried about mushrooming the threaded end.

Got any recommendations for sellers of bearing kits or did you use a Yamaha dealer?

I did, and replaced the pivot bolt...

http://getfile4.posterous.com/getfil...scaled1000.jpg

(see my sig thread for more details)

I bought almost all the parts from Yamaha, via ajsutton.co.uk. Bloody expensive, there's about �250-300 worth of parts if you do everything in the back end (seals, bearings, and sleeves). You could probably get some of it slightly cheaper from a bearing supply place, but you'd have a lot of running about (and need to know all the numbers/dimensions beforehand). You'd still have to go to Yam for the sleeves, and they are a significant chunk of the total.

I bought a "swingarm pivot bearing kit" from Wemoto, but I'd order genuine Yam if I was doing it again, because:

1) It only includes the pair of needle roller bearings and the outside seals. There's also a pair of plastic bushes and seals on the insides, plus the sleeves. If you need to replace the bearings, I don't see why you wouldn't do a proper job and replace the whole lot. I don't even think you could do it without damaging everything - I put a lot of heat into the swingarm to get the bearings out.

2) The bearings in the kit are full complement (ie cageless) needle rollers. The Yam ones are caged. This isn't a concern in terms of function, but it means it will be a massive PITA if I want to clean and regrease them without losing rollers everywhere. I used them anyway, because I had them, but wouldn't again.

Cheers.

I'll be visiting the Yam dealers tomorrow,looks like I only need the engine mount end pair of bearings and sleeve from the relay arm for now.

I'm bloody glad I re-greased most of the bearings early on in ownership.

Funnily enough, those were the first ones that went on mine a year or so ago. I ordered a complete set at the time, but I only used the rest of them in the current rebuild. I did actually replace the frame-end ones again, which wasn't really necessary as they were still in good condition, but I wanted to be absolutely sure given my upcoming trip.

I regreased all the linkage ones at the time, and once or twice since, but didn't bother with the swingarm. Obviously with hindsight this was a mistake :D

Interesting thread guys and you inspire me to make an important point, without wishing to sound like my grandfather with all of those "they were the days" kind of comments hehe. My point is:
(a) When bikes were made in Japan the quality was excellent. I have owned maybe 20 Jap built Jap bikes (firstly Hondas and then Yams) and I have NEVER had a problem related to build quality.
(b) Jap bikes made in Europe are NOT of the same build quality. I am now on my 3rd XT660 cos I love them but my first one (2007) gave me all sorts of problems after I sold it at 3 years and 16,000km and the current one at the age of 2years now has a rusty petrol filler cap and a rusty side stand.
And I live in Roma where we have less rain than the UK AND I am a fanatical WD40 fan and my bikes all get liberal doses most weeks!!

Compare all of the above to the old XT600s which will last 20 or 30 years if treated ok. Shame eh......

I just wish Yamaha would use a some grease when they assembled the shock linkage and head bearings.

To be fair I'm quite pleased with the Tenere mechanically and it is well thought out and easy to work on.This is the first bearing I've replaced in 32000 miles and considering I've used it a lot offroad,done 4 Long distance trials and ridden all year round commuting to work that's not bad.

The only other items I've replaced are bulbs, brake pads,chains and sprockets.

Oh and a few brake levers !

Grease nipples would be nice.

My main criticisms are many of the fasteners are cheap,corrode quickly and the powder coating on the swingarm and hubs is awful.The frame paint is excellent though.

I don't like wd40 it washes off all the grease that protects the metal in the first place.

Maybe the secret is never clean a bike and build up a healthy layer of muck to protect it,one day I'll clean it off and prove my theory :laughing7:

Romoving those corroded bearings was a pig of a job and involved using lots of heat.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8085/8...035e132d_b.jpg



I've found an ebay seller (link below) that stocks the relay arm bearings at half the Yamaha cost and probably every other bearing and seal you'd need for the Tenere.

The pair I am replacing are: open cup needle bearings 17x24x15mm.

The other 3 in the relay arm will also be 17x24xL .

I haven't removed them to determine the lengths but will find out.................. or if anyone else knows ?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IKO-TA1715...item5d34fb53b5

I knew the moment I typed that I'd be tempting fate.

Thought I'd give the bike a quick once over while it was in bits and found the throttle pull cable worn down to one strand and the return cable also badly frayed.Both at the point they enter the metal outer sleeves at the throttle pulley end.