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.: XT660.com - The #1 XT660 Resource :. ( https://www.xt660.com/index.php)

- XT660Z T�n�r� General Discussions ( https://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=129)

- - Rear Wheel Installation ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=19741)

stoic bloke

22-09-12 23:11

Yep, they are a complete pita to do! the fact the spacers are not positively fixed makes it more fiddly, it is a pity they don't follow the design used on most offroaders, the spacers fit inside the bearings. I use a lc4 rear wheel, it's not an easy conversion

like this
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...llyprep002.jpg

Seahorse

24-09-12 05:30

I have just removed the Rear wheel from my XT660Z and fitted a Mitas EO9 and a UHD tube (4mm thick). This is a story/saga all by itself...

While I have the wheel out I cleaned up the cush drive and blocks. Only have 2700 K's on the bike and the cush rubbers are just about fritzed.

Have done a modified "Ken-Mod" by cutting strips 25mm by 50mm from a surplus inner tube and packing each quadrant with two packers. I coated the male drive legs with a smear of Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease and the whole thing went back together with minimum effort.

There is virtually no movement in the hub now, and no possibility of loading up the hub as the packers are on the drive faces only. Will take the hub out at 5000K's and see if this method works.

As for putting the wheel back in...That is a job for tomorrow

66T	24-09-12 12:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 179130)

Cable tie the sprocket/carrier to the spokes to hold that in place.

Extra generous blobs of grease on the spacers tend to keep them in check.

Lever the pads back into the pistons (keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder) gives extra play needed.

I also use a piece of wood resting under the wheel to act as a lever/chock to lift the wheel, so I can concentrate on getting everything aligned without having to worry about supporting any weight at the same time.

There are other ways, probably better ways, but this is what seems to work for me.

Yeah, +1. This seems to be the best way for me too.

colros

24-09-12 13:56

Simular to above, Used the tip about Cable tieing the Hib in makes it easier and pulls it up tight for the space.

I used a Ratchet Strap through the Wheel and over the bike behind the rear hand grips and used it to lift the wheel up gave my both hands for the spindle.

Ooh and Swearing.

:102::glasses12:

kinioo

24-09-12 21:47

another pair of hands is very useful here...but I agree if you are on your own its a pain in ....; it took me good 30min to put it back, the spacers are ok but the bloody rear caliper kept sliding out of the plastic guide - i reckon to cable tie/duct tape it to the swing arm just to keep it steady, also, as mentioned above, a piece of wood under the wheel worked for me!

phil ten

25-09-12 21:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seahorse (Post 179282)

While I have the wheel out I cleaned up the cush drive and blocks. Only have 2700 K's on the bike and the cush rubbers are just about fritzed.

Have done a modified "Ken-Mod" by cutting strips 25mm by 50mm from a surplus inner tube and packing each quadrant with two packers. I coated the male drive legs with a smear of Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease and the whole thing went back together with minimum effort.

There is virtually no movement in the hub now, and no possibility of loading up the hub as the packers are on the drive faces only. Will take the hub out at 5000K's and see if this method works.

Where can I find a link to this Cush drive mod? Repacked mine but not enough and wasn't sure where to actually put the packing

Pleiades

25-09-12 21:41

This thread is the one with the pictures...

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=12422

This is Kev's (Ken's ;) ) original post...

http://www.xt660.com/showpost.php?p=99604

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