tenere chain guide
 

hi. i did a write up a while ago on the subject, it was kind of lost within another article, so here it is, on it's own and slightly updated, like the bike it's been to hell and back! and is still fine.

if you want one made i can supply a kit with all you require[bolts,nuts, drill bit, ktm block, uk postage] apart from drilling the swing arm and fitting! is �45 ok?

about jan 2010 and 25,000 miles ago i made one. it uses the older ktm genuine chain block circa 2002 it lasts the longest [years of owning exc's].as it lasts so well it wears the split link so riveting the chain is advisable. has survived very well on proper off road!

the bracket is 3mm stainless plate 52x 65with a right angle fold, so now52x40 with a 25 right angle. the slightly slotted 8.5mm holes where it secures to the swing arm.

the swingarm is drlled to the centre of the flat part,the rear most bolt is app 180mm from the end of the swingarm, i used stainless bolts facing down so easy to remove or repair if damaged on the trail. the bolt heads have a foot welded on to stop them rotating in the hollow of the swing arm. the block is fastened with 6mm bolts the rearmost hole is slightly slotted to adjust to sprocket size

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...llybike020.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...llybike021.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...llybike019.jpg

i hope this helps, very reliable, easy to make and fit.give a good place for the scottoiler too. any probs give me a shout, stoic

Simple and effective...

...and so is the chain guard... aha ha.

Jx

He he J, that's rude! Don't take any notice Hero stoic bloke. Well, not much anyway...

Seriously, as I've said, this mod of your is, long-term, going to save numerous

a) Countershaft bearings due to overtightened chains
b) Crankcases due to busted, overtightened chains
c) Derailed chains, possibly causing damage
d) Amounts of money due to relative lack of wear and tear on external drive
components because of properly adjusted chains
e) Shortened lives from owners stressing about whether the chain is going to
dismount at a critical moment.

Of all the things I've done, or am going to do to my bike, this is the best, and probably cheapest, mod.

The reason I'm gushing on is that eleven years ago my '96 Tenere was assaulted by a busted chain at 130km/h, in a remote area 600km from home, in the dark and drizzle. The resulting damage was annoying, but not as bad as it could've been. The engine went from >5000rpm to zero in a nanosecond as the chain bunched up around the drive sprocket. On the way it ripped off the chainguard, smashed the helmet lock and busted the alloy left side of the carrier. The crankcase survived with a hairline crack which only wept oil very slightly. And the engine internals survived totally. Not even a bent countershaft or twisted crank. That was one tough motor, luckily for me. I continued thrashing it for another year or two, and it sounded like a new one when I sold it.

A properly adjusted (even slightly loose) chain would've avoided the whole issue. It remains the only O-ring chain that I've had break in some hundreds of thousands of kilometres of dirt riding, since everything else had a rear chain guide and I could run a nice, loose chain (within reason). I've had chains wear until they started spitting off rollers (on work bikes), but no breaks except for the old Tenere.

Thus I owe you a beer, stoic bloke. If the chain breaks it won't be due to overtightening. Cheers, mate.

thanks 66t, hope it helps

and as for jenny, she's been a very rude girl, so no virtual beer for her! :pottytrain1:

all the best, bernard

hi, great chain guide mod from stoic bloke!
Has anyone fitted one to the XTR?
Wondering if the bracket dimensions are the same, as the swingarm is different.

i picked up on this a good while back in stoics posting and endorse it as easy and worthwhile too ..i was real jammy i got the guide from ebay ..for 99p instead of 18 quid new [only bidder]

i really like the way it sites the scottoiler out of harms way and distribute oil both sides of the chain .. a real nice bonus nice bonus
you can see the old pipee guide on the top of the arm to try and stop it getting deflected or twisted in the ruts and mud so it solved a few potential problems for bext to nowt .. i run the chain real loose now 60ml plus and its hardly needed any tensioning with increased oil and less stress
i cant see any downsides to it
thanks

i made one amendment and split the guide with a hacksaw and then put the metal bushes back in .. it can be taken off really easily ny thereading it through the chain
its sat there as good as gold for 15k no problems at all ..nice one

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/7756/img1800i.jpg
By minkyhead at 2011-03-14

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/5127/img1802pm.jpg
By minkyhead at 2011-03-14

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/6830/49200133.jpg
By minkyhead at 2011-03-14

tenere chain guide
 

Got the chain guide today. However, I have a 525 sized chain which means there is no free play between the chain and the guide, so the chain is constantly rubbing against the guide. Probably the the chain will soon make room for itself and just rub away the excess plastic.
I'm stuck as to what is the best thing to do. Am I going to ruin my chain or potentially cause other damage!
Any thoughts would be appreciated

Why not just help the chain a bit and grind the excess plastic manually ?

There is no moving part on the outside of the chain so you don't ruin it by using it as grinder BUT don't if you use a clip on the connecting link (master link)......

Even with a riveted chain i would be a bit carefull since it might be a bit wider. With and endless chain you should be fine ....

Good idea! I used the grinder to split open the top of the guide but grinding down the interior is gonna be impossible. I would have to cut off the bottom of the unit. This would defeat the purpose of the guide and increase the risk of the chain coming off

Take the guide off, hold it in a vice and use a flat file. Won't take long to remove what you need.

Thanks! I did think of that but my file is too wide to get in there and also the walls of the guide are quite thin

hello
I'm sorry I do not speak english (google translate)
I also wanted to produce a chain guide, but my Tenere is new, so I did not want to drill holes into the back of the fork,, L,, holder. For installation I used the inner oval hole that is on the back of the fork, into which I put a long stainless steel sheet with holes for screws from the back side, I made a steel bracket. this steel holder, I have screwed the chain guide. I do not know if it will be clear, here are some pictures. What do you say to that? It's okay ???

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...0015%2Bang.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...o/P9160016.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...o/P9160017.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...o/_IGP3750.JPG

Vitajte na f�re.

:023: Skvel� pr�ca. Vyzer� to ako dobr� n�pad pre t�ch, ktor� nechc� vŕtať ich kyvn� rameno.

Hi all... Looking at the chain guide mod I was wondering if the swing arm has been drilled and a thread tapped in to hold what look like studs. Or has it been drilled straight through for long bolts? I am thinking as well of fitting a chain tensioner as on motocross bikes. Useful to prevent chain jumping sprocket. Anyone any views. cheers. phil

It looks very interessting. But I couldn't figure out how you fixed it to the swingarm. I have a rough idea idea but not a clear view :-). Maybe you can help out with some more pictures?

Tenere Chain Guide (templates)
 

Many thanks to Stoic Bloke and Minky Head for the idea and using the KTM guide (and also to anyone else involved not mentioned)
Just to help anyone else building one of these I have attached some scans of templates. Also some photos.
I pinned the back plate together with some only needle bearings and then tapped the plate, so bolts could be screwed into it, through the main chain guide support plate (bigger plate).
You may wonder what the black stuff is on the scan, well that is milliput which was put on the back of the plate to help keep dirt out out really, and when it was setting, I had cling film on the the swing (around the over hole where the fixing plate was inserted), this then meant it was easy to dismantle (if necessary).

Lastly once fitted on the bike, I had to play around with spacer (plain) washers to get the distance just right away from the plate. In addition to using a brass spacer which I had to file with a taper; as even though it all looked aligned prior to reinstalling the swing arm, it was about 5 deg out.

Works a treat especially after I managed to make it home on five sprocket teeth! LoL