Tyre change wheel removal!
 

Hi Lads,
Now is the time to change for proper knobby tyres.
Done some research and (as expected) web prices are much cheaper than local garages (ie. pair of TKC 80's �135 garage �190 etc).
On top of that, if I bring loose wheels they charge �20 per wheel to fit new tyres and if I bring a bike they charge �50 per pair!!.
Due to above I decided to do it myself!
About to order some tyres from internet (what web/supplier is the best in terms of delivery time!!)
Don�t have central stand, so what is the best way to do it? Was thinking about small jack under the engine and lift it up a bit, secure with something and there we go!
What spanner size for rear tyre?
Also noticed that the front wheel is not a nut � is the tool/spanner for front tyre included in standard tool kit?

Many thanks!
PS.
Also, was thinking about rim lock (at some stage) how to fit it?

Ok...


Firstly, are you really surprised that a tyre shop - who make their money selling tyres - will charge you a lot for fitting tyres you've not bought from them? Really? Didn't think so. :D

You can find places that will swap them for you cheaper. Typically it will be a backstreet race-bike mechanic somewhere rather than a big bike shop - they're geared up to swapping part-worns back and forth for racers. I've got one locally that will do them for �6 a wheel, but that's not much use to you.

However it's worth doing your own occasionally to keep your hand in in case you need to do it on the trail. And TBH I've been swapping mine so often lately that even �6 starts to look a bit steep :D

Rear wheel nut is 22mm. Front spindle is a 14mm hex key. Neither is included in the toolkit (cheers Yamaha). Go to Halfords/etc and look for sockets to fit car gearbox drain plugs.

I wouldn't bother with rim locks for normal trail riding. I don't think it's particularly sensible to run very low pressures on such a heavy bike anyway. I run at about 25psi, and that's enough to stop the tyre spinning on the rim.

Many thanks uberthumper!!

�6 is a bargain!! (I dont have similar shops/garages in my area ;/) )

I think I will give it a go anyway for training.

I've got some spanners but need to buy hex for front wheel.

Any suggestions re: bike support etc. for wheel removing having just side stand?!!!

I've got a centre stand!

If I didn't, I'd probably buy something like this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liftmaster...#ht_2190wt_754

You can improvise all sorts of ways of doing it, but is it worth the stress?

Halfords do front wheel spindle drives now, saw them last week, but didn't have a good look so not sure of the quality.

Whenever I buy tools, I buy wise, that is, not cheap. It's worth it in the long run.

OK, getting your wheel up;

The back, put the bike on the sidestand, pull it over (on the side stand) and shove a rock/box/pannier under the other side to keep it there. It helps if you have four arms and two of them are 6 feet long, or ask the missis/dad/mam/son/daughter/dog to help. Or an axel stand under the swing arm.

The front isn't as easy, use the same principle as the rear, but you are going to need to put weight on the back of the bike.

If you have a decent pannier, you can shove this under the engine guard and pretty much do either wheel, just by moving the pannier backwards (for the back wheel) or forwards (for the front).

But there are many ways to skin a cat, as they say.


PS - I have the Clarke version (from Machine Mart) of the liftmaster that UT mentions above. Another worthy investment, with you allways and can lift far more than just a motorcycle... (outboards, trailers, cars, RSJ's !)

UP TO 680KG it looks like I can lift up my bike with my mother-in-law sitting on it!!! Excellent!! :naka:

if you are fitting off road type tyres i take it you are going to go 'off road' and they are not for show...........therefor you best figure out how to change a tube on the trail without i centrestand/jack/prop of some sort, as you are bound to get a punture a some point! it might be worthwhile investing in a centrestand.

hi kinioo, plenty of useful advice there! as redbikejohn & uber says better to be prepared than stuck so here's my 2p's worth

unless you intend to run low, below 15psi, i would avoid rim locks they are not really needed and a ****** to balance.
a couple of short levers, buzzetti type with a 22mm socket and a 30mm section of 14mm allen key welded to the less useful end of the levers works for me.
for inflation a cheapy 12v pump with the casings removed is the bussiness just mind your fingers!

wether you take tubes or repair kit what ever suits you, personally i carry both tubes

roadside tyre changing in france

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...ailride224.jpg

Kiinoo,, dont use a spanner fur the rear tyre,,use Tire levers ye`l get on better an faster ha ha ha... an stotic bloke... what ye changin that good looking rear fur another one is it cause its cleaner lookin.....

i always use a gingerbottle crate.... get it on the balance.. then tie the rear down when talkin the front off....man its hard writing all these words :024:

nah john, i worked out desert tyres are pants on soft going!, better with a fresh enduro hoop
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...ailride161.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...ailride259.jpg

thought i did change it back for going home and any time soon the canvas
will make an appearance, so about 7,000miles on the michelin desert, not a bad tyre thought proper scary on wet tar!
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...ailride335.jpg

Thanks for all advise guys.

Just got my hex for front wheel.

Was thinking abot bottle crate as support as well - will see!

looking for some decent tyre levers now,

ordering tyres (probably TKC80 or MITAS e-09, or Michelin T63 or Metzeler Karoo) and here we go...

Will give it a try!!

hi kinioo, if i was in the market for new levers this is type i would go for!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-X-MOTOCR...76596029108795

i havbe some old levers . but just for conveniance i got a motion pro lever and spanner
its well dear but its well good to ,,its really feather light and is the best fishing lever by far if that makes sense ..its very good at getting in and is less severe on the rims
ov course i hace a couple of the old set top go with it

takes care of the rear wheel nut easytoo
me old levers are still up to the job but if your feeling posh ..the pros are a nice tool to have

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/8042/img1756.jpg
By minkyhead at 2011-03-02

I would not... I have a set of those but find them too cumbersome to handle and to take along on a trip. And you don't really need that kind of length / lever / force to lift the tire from the rim... on a regular tire (TKC, Enduro, T63)

Maybe something like these would do (same as Minky's old spanner?):

http://www.adventure-spec.com/media/...z2403_copy.jpg

http://www.adventure-spec.com/defaul...-set-of-3.html

Breaking the bead of the rear tire is however a different story:angry9:

Good point, as if you have the bike precariously balanced on some combination of the sidestand, beer crates and axle stands, you're not going to be able to use the sidestand to break the bead.

What about this set:

http://www.pashnit.com/product/beadbrakr.html

http://www.pashnit.com/pics/products...01_Kit_400.jpg

combines a set of levers in a bead breaker device:
http://www.pashnit.com/pics/products...04_Assb500.jpg

HJ

"The rubber tyre sidewall is actually glued to the rim".

O RLY?

ahhh! but if you check out my levers in the 1st tyre changing photo you will see they are shortened + tools added.
it's the design of the tip of the levers that makes life easier. believe me i've tried a few and for me, these work best.

I stand corrected Sorry ,,,when i made mention oif the spanner tool an i said.. better wi tyre levers... thats a crackin lookin tool wi the spanner attched to it... does that do the rear wheel nut..?:icon_scoot[1]:

Kinnoo.. thers a set o tyres in the forsale section....

Single minded in post 14... what is the wee round key ring fur ??? an where dae ye get these levers...

First of all - get a centre stand
Practise the wheelchange in your garage where you can leave the bike till the following day when you don't get finished
I did the exercise on the back wheel without the centrestand and it took me more than two hours, taking it off, breaking the bead, taking out the tube and put everything back
Beleive me, if you don't do this on a regular basis you will struggle
I'm glad I did not get a puncture on the last trip, it would be the end of it
You must try to do the exercise with only the tools and mini compressor you take along on a trip, otherwise it's sensless if you've got a big tank compressor, etc etc
Would love to hear your story when you try this

Aha! Now I see... that's rather clever! Think I'll let the grinder have a go at mine too!

Thanks All,

Tyres ordered!!

Poping out to the local shop over the weekend to get levers (was after the shorter version) as I want to use them as my 'on board' tool when on the move.

Yes, get center stand, bead breaker, etc... but cant afford them.

I am going to use whatever I got at the moment (i.e. side stand etc).

Practice makes perfec so...

Will post how I am getting on!

Many thanks

Centre stands - not always expensive
 

If you want a cheap centre stand, have a look at www.heavyduties.com
total cost, posted from Romania is 73 euro. I have had various bits from them & can recommend them both on quality & service.
HTH, Gary

You don't need a center stand as long as you can find a handy rock:

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/r...wMexico003.jpg

Or if all else fails, just lie the bike on the ground, it won't come to any harm...

Jx