|
20000km service (DIY guide)
Though my ten is 21 months old, with 20000km on the clock, and still in warranty, I made the decision to do the 20k service on my own and void the warranty.
References: 1. Yamaha Service Manual XT660Z TENERE 2008 2. Haynes Service & Repair Manual Yamaha XT660Z Tenere Jobs performed: 1. Valve clearance adjustment 2. Spark plug change 3. Air filter replacement 4. Engine oil & oil filter change (Jobs that will be performed later on this year: 5. Lubrication of steering bearings 6. Lubrication of rear suspension relay arm & connecting arm pivoting points) Spares changed: http://s1137.photobucket.com/albums/...io231/service/ http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00449.jpg Tools used: http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00450.jpg (plus 2 torque wrenches) 1. Firstly, I removed the seat and drained the fuel tank. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00450a.jpg 2. Then I removed the fuel tank covers. (The bottom left bolt proved pretty stubborn, and it came out together with its threaded housing/sleeve :smilies0979: ). http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00451.jpg 3. So I used some glue… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00451b.jpg 4. … and stuck it back inside the plastic bracket.. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00451c.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00451d.jpg 5. I removed the tank bracket, washers and collars… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00452.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00453a.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00454a.jpg 6. …the front bolts (one on each side)… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00456.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00458.jpg http://s1137.photobucket.com/albums/...io231/service/ |
7. �the bolts and plastic brackets� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00459.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00460.jpg 8. �the screws and headlight panels (be careful not to lose the sleeves)� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00461.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00462.jpg 9. I disconnected the turn signal wiring connectors... http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00464a.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00465a.jpg 10. �(Take care not to lose the rubber washers)� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00466.jpg 11. �and the overflow pipe. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00468.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00470.jpg |
12. I lifted and supported the tank. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00470a.jpg 13. I disconnected the fuel sender coupler� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00471.jpg 14. �the white fuel pump coupler (this one is tough. Press firmly with your thumb while pulling it with your other hand). http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00472.jpg 15. �the fuel hose clamp� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00473.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00474.jpg 16. �the fuel hose (press the green clips and pull the hose at the same time)� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00475a.jpg 17. �(have a rag handy to collect any remaining fuel). http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00477.jpg 18. Tank removed. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00478.jpg 19. Then I removed the radiator covers. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00481a.jpg 20. Push the centre pin in to remove the trim clip. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00482.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00483.jpg 21. To reinstall it, just push the pin conversely so it peeps from the upper side of the clip. Then fit the clip and push the centre pin in. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00484.jpg |
30. Spark plug is out. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00508.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00511.jpg 31. I removed the 2 accessing screws… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00516.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00516a.jpg 32. … (The o-rings were in good condition)... http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00517.jpg 33. …and the camshaft sprocket cover. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00519.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00520.jpg 34. I turned the crankshaft counterclockwise by using a 22mm hex socket (the image is from the OEM manual, because I forgot to take a photo). I continued turning the crankshaft until the “I” mark (a) aligned with the stationary pointer on the magneto cover (b). http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00521.jpg 35. On the camshaft sprocket there's another “I” mark which moved at the bottom (overlap TDC of the exhaust stroke - I don't want this one)... http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00523.jpg 36. ...So I made another circle counterclockwise. (Do not confuse the “I” mark on the crankshaft with the “H” mark that comes just before it). http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00524.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00525.jpg 37. The piston is now at TDC (of the compression stroke), and the 4 valves are closed and ready for adjustment. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00526.jpg 38. I removed the intake and exhaust tappet covers.. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00527.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00528.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00528a.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00529.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00530.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00531.jpg 39. …and inserted the feeler between the adjusting screw and the valve. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00533.jpg |
40. (The intake valves were 0,08 mm, while the exhaust valves were 0.13 mm. Way out of specification. My previous mechanic said he had adjusted the valves at the 10k service, but I think he was lying. Probably he had adjusted only the intake ones). 41. I slackened the locknut and turned the adjusting screw using a tiny wrench -because no screwdriver could fit in the exhaust valves area- until the gap was 0.11 mm for the intake and 0.18 mm for the exhaust valves. I held the screw to prevent it from moving and tightened the locknut using a torque wrench for the intake valves and my intuition (!) for the exhaust ones. I hope they don’t become loose after 50 kms. 42. For the peace of mind and although the old o-rings were in good condition, I fitted new ones. (The new is on the left side). http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00534.jpg 43. :tenere: :eek: http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00535.jpg 44. I measured the gaps once again and reinstalled the covers… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00537.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00538.jpg 45. …the spark plug (the new plug came with pre-adjusted electrode gap at 0.75mm) … http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00539.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00540.jpg 46. …the coolant draining bolt, the 2 hoses… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00545.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00545a.jpg 47. …the fan, the radiator, the coolant and finally the fuel tank. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00546.jpg 48. Next was the air filter’s turn. I removed the case cover… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00557.jpg 49. …the old air filter… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00558.jpg 50. …(the air filter housing was sufficiently clean)… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00560.jpg |
51. �and then I fitted a new one. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00561.jpg 52. By the way, I cleaned the air filter check hose also. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00562.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00562a.jpg 53. After that, I changed the engine oil. I warmed the engine for 5 min, removed the oil filler cap� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00563.jpg 54. �the oil tank drain bolt� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00565a.jpg 55. �and the oil crankcase drain bolt. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00566.jpg 56. The oil is draining. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00567.jpg 57. I removed the oil filter cover bolts� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00568.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00569.jpg 58. �checked the o-rings (they looked normal)� http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00570.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00571.jpg http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00572.jpg 59. �cleaned the filter housing, and replaced the filter (Don�t forget the filter drain bolt�s little o-ring). http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC00572a.jpg 60. This is an optional step. Before installing the new filter, pour some fresh oil inside it and rotate the filter a few times so that the oil spreads around the inner surface. I believe that this trick speeds up the oil circulation the first time you start the motor after the oil change procedure. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00573.jpg |
61. I tightened the filter cover, oil tank and crankcase bolts to the specified torque. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00575.jpg 62. I filled the oil tank with 1.9 lt of 10W40 oil. I started the engine, raced it 5 times, turned it off and then added the remainder 0.7 lt. http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00576.jpg 63. Finally I refitted the plastic covers, started the engine and checked for leaks. 64. Ready to hit the road… http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSC00596.jpg Total cost: 58 euros. I hope you find this guide helpful and I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. Cheers. :occasion14: |
Very good DIY show. I want to do the same but I have to do it for my next 40.000 km. I find the fuel tank unmount a little bit complicated, but I hope to do fine...
|
Great pics and description
Thanks for the report and pics, you have inspired me to do my 20k service myself too.:blob5:
|
:thumbsup[1]:
|
Hi zeiss11, didn't you fancy doing the steering bearing and suspension linkage greasing, they are due at the same interval as the v/v clearances?
Very good write up by the way, I did my valve clearance at 12k miles (20k km) and they were within spec thankfully. All the best. |
Hi.
You are absolutely right. Those two jobs are also included in the specified 12k mile maintenance, but I’ll do them next month, because currently I’m in search of a substitute tool for the original 120euro Yamaha steering nut wrench (and the ring nut wrench) so that I can use a torque wrench to tighten the steering head ring nut. Sth like this: http://www.gadgetjq.com/hans_socket2.jpg |
Brilliant !
|
woaaoo nice writeup!
You've just convinced me to let the dealer do it when the time comes :D |
Good job.
For the valve adjustments you don't need to remove the radiator, with some patience you will manage without it. You can grease the steering bearings by removing the steering bar and upper triple clamp only. Put the bike on a stand and lower the whole front part by removing the two nuts. To tighten the nuts use conmen sense no torque wrench. Tighten it till there no more play. Good luck |
I'll try next time to avoid removing the radiator, though I believe I won't make it.
The manual says that you should remove the fork and front wheel, before loosening the nuts. Thanks for the feedback. |
I think Kev posted some picture about how I described the greasing of the bearings.
http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?...+head+bearings |
well done great write up and photos much better than any manual
was it just me, you drained the radiator but I don't recall you filling it back up ? I am sure you did i did my oil service and filter, still gotta get round to the valve clerances trust myself to do a job properly rather than a dealer who just tells you that they do, plus once you do a job a couple of times it gets easy. |
Quote:
By the way, a good write-up on this fiddly service. You've done well. |
Great write up...I'll be using this soon too...
|
torque setting of the valve adjust lock nut
What is the torque setting for the valve adjust lock nuts?
and how did you torque up the exhaust side - you did this by feel, I presume because a torque wrench wouldn't fit. In lieu of a torque wrench then, what would be a good torque setting - something like 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn from finger tight? thanks for the post btw |
Quote:
If you can't get a torque wrench to fit, just work as a guide on the assumption that 14Nm is equivalent to 7Kg of mass applied to the end of a 200mm spanner, or 9Kg on a 150mm spanner. BTW - I've never in 30 years used a torque wrench to do valve lock nuts and never had one come loose. |
Nip up tight..then a further 8th of a turn should suffice IMO.
:) . |
20000 km service
This needs to be a sticky thread, dont think you can get clearer instructions.:eusa_angel:
|
Cool thanks for the info
|
Great job!
This kind of reports push me to self maintain my T�n�r�😁 |
Think you've convinced me to buy some feeler gauges and do my valve clearances
|
Ever considered a job at Haynes Manuals?
|
Brilliant report,and something i shall definitely be using in the future!!...
|
Many thanks
Thanks to this great write up, I did my 20,000km service today. Inlet clearances needed a tweak, but to my surprise, exhaust side was spot on. (I bought the bike at 14,000km, so maybe they've been set previously) all in all, an enjoyable days spannering and nice to know it's all tickety-boo.
|
Brilliant step by step.....I'm sure myself and many others will refer back to write up and photos, thanks Steve
|
Help please
How kick air from fuel sistem? Xtx dont wont to start after dismountig fuel tank(and valve check) |
Quote:
Just double check you have clicked the fuel line connector fully home. If it hasn't snapped into place, no fuel will flow. For that matter check the electrical connections are good too. Can you here the pump priming when you first turn the ignition on? |
Pump is working.
If put hose in botle and turn key gaselin is pumping On start sprey hi working,no sprayng hi go of Sorry for my english |
Update
Xtx is working :) Fuel pump was the problem . Litle o-ring was not on his place and there isn't enough fuel preshure. Thanks for diy guide for valve clerance |
Thanks
Quote:
|
fuel filter
where is the fuel filter on the tenere?
|
Nice. Thanks for the step by step. Hopefully my 20k service will go as smooth.
|
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:47. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.