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Eat. Pay. Love
Thanks!
Tanzania 31/05 - 03/06/2012 http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/ruta_tanzania.jpg Save your money. Tanzania wants your blood, sweat and tears. It wants you cash-drained and on the next plane to wherever you came from. This vast country boasts stellar safari destinations, a tropical archipelago with some of the best diving on the planet and the highest peak in Africa. We craned our imagination at Ngorongoro, explored Serengeti behind eyelids wide shut and climbed Kilimajaro in our dreams. But to enjoy all that, and afford to travel around the world, you'd better own the Internet. Now, we decided we would not be bitter about that, 'cause you know, best things in life are free. The plan was to ride some dirt, see some lake, sail some sea and have a ball while not thinking about the fact that we had arrived at the peak of wildebeest migration across the Serengeti. We exited Mozambique and crossed into Tanzania the same way we had entered, o a bridge. This time, a proper one. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1963.jpg And encountered another cutie. I think we'll start a Chameleon Hall Of Fame http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1991.jpg Arriving at African borders with the visa regulations for your particular nationality well researched: always a good idea. This officers were super friendly, but their border documents stated that we needed to purchase a visa. It helped a lot that I was sure we didn't, so even if it took 2 hours, we sorted out our documents money free. And there was even wifi on the premises! http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1971.jpg Straight off the bat, we knew we had hit a foodie jackpot with new country. While in Mozambique the options were minimal, in Tanzania on the other hand, good time appeared to be all about food: selecting it, frying it, eating it, even paying for it. Swahili time meant the day had just begun, so there was indian spiced tea (chai) with milk and chapati for breakfast in this local joint. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1973.jpg Plus our first taste of a national favorite that was to become an unavoidable, but filling staple for us. Ana hates chips, but for the next 20 days she would learn to enjoy them as Tanzanians do: chipsi mayai (omlette with chips inside). We had a feeling we would not make much use of our stove here, with all the cheap street-side bonanza. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1993.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1997.jpg Spicy pilau, mishkaki (kebab), sweet potato, fried cassava… http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2000.jpg Octopus, squid, curried potato dumplings… http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2008.jpg And passion fruit sold in 10 liter paint buckets for less than 2 euros (to briefly mention what is on offer in markets and with hawkers) http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1999.jpg After sleeping in a field, next day we drove to Dar Es Salaam. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...z_bushcamp.jpg As we found the campsites in Kitumbue to be noisy and pricey, and the city, well, a city, we camped 70 km north, in Bagamoyo. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1991.jpg This was the place where all those 19th Century pioneers - Stanley, Grant, Burton, Speke - set off to explore the interior of the continent. For David Livingstone, it would be the start of his African journey and the last stop in life: he returned there only dead, his body carried 1500 miles by his porters from Lake Bangweulu in Zambia. Already famous for centuries, the town had been known as ‘Bwagamoyo’ ('crush the heart’), the place where thousands of slaves who had marched eastwards out of Central Africa awaited to be shipped to nearby Zanzibar, and then towards their final destination somewhere in the Gulf, across the Arabian Sea. To preserve what remains of the former German administrative centre isn’t a priority at all: most crumbling coral-brick buildings are used to dump rubbish or to empty ones bowels. Even if the architecture and details are just as interesting as in the famous Stone Town of Zanzibar island. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania..._bmoyofort.jpg At night we went out for a beer http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2406.jpg Some days one just got to live and maybe venture out of their league. Zanzibar, we knew too well, was not a destination for budget travelers. But we wanted to go there anyway, at least to meet the family of our Zanzibari friend from Lubumbashi. We needed a plan. Air travel was out of the question, so sea travel it was. In september 2011, a ferry carrying 800 passengers from Uguja (the main island in the Zanzibar archipelago) to Pemba capsized, and over 200 people died. And dhows had long been forbidden to take foreigners on board. That ought to give anybody considering a sea voyage across the Zanzibar channel some food for thought. Then we met Daudi, captain on a traditional Omani dhow, who, for 15,000 shillings (7,5 Euro, but already three times the price a local would pay) would take us to the archipelago (call him at +255713334674 to arrange your journey, minimal swahili recommended). Later we would be appalled to learn that a ferry ticket would have costed US 35 for one way. Was our decision to take a wind-powered, medieval style wooden dhow potentially dangerous? http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...oyoharbour.jpg In some respects, it was: there were no life jackets on board, we didn’t know the captain, all we could do to was leave our Romanian mobile no. with the campsite where we had parked the motorbike. Taking our Tenere across would have been possible, but we wanted to avoid any customs entanglement in the semiautonomous Zanzibar. We figured Chams' folks would fetch us a donkey or something to ride about. While the tide was still low, we carried our stuff (including our tent) onboard. Camping is supposedly illegal on Zanzibar, but this is in Africa, nobody cares. On the beach men actioned the catch of the day and women cooked it. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2024.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2022.jpg The tanzanian version of chai-wallas sold bite-size groundnut cookies with black coffee at 50 shillings a pop. We thought about how even the poorest of the poor can, and does afford to enjoy a sweet moment. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_1998.jpg For Daudi, this trip was all about cargo. Besides the jovial 4 men crew and the two of us, there was just one more passenger squeezed on top of tomatoes, bell peppers and mattresses. We watched Daudi steering the age-old vessel. The unfurling of the sail gave us a full body buzz of excitement - we knew were embarking on one of those journeys one doesn’t easily forget. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2030.jpg Over 30 years ago my mum was determined have her New Year's bash. She was about to pop her second child, but she made it through another 3 days of fun and dance, eventually giving birth on the steps of the maternity, basically on the backseat of my grandfather's Ford Taunus. Being born in a vehicle sealed my faith. I spent my childhood near motorized machines, creeping around my grandfather (who was a mechanic), begging to be allowed to temper with the tools and steal some secrets of the trade. Rocking it on the sea though, was a whole other ball game. Halfway through, if we squinted really hard, we could see both the mainland and Zanzibar. That's about when I became so seasick, that I was 'come on, stomach, don't fail me now'. Nothing left to do but lay on top of those tomatoes and try to snooze. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2032.jpg 4 hours later we arrived in the harbor near Stone Town, where Nassur picked us up. We would stay at his sisters's place, Neyfuu. We were lucky again to spend time with local people and this time our karma had brought us to another happy home, filled with Zanzibari beauties and kids. |
Everything Is Better In Zanzibar
Zanzibar 03 - 07/06/2012 The Arab spring was bubbling and the architecture industry was tumbling into a new ice age. Meanwhile, 20 nautical miles offshore mainland Tanzania, in a tiny gulf in the Zanzibar archipelago, 36 years old Fatuma had woken up before 5 a.m. to work on her seaweed plantation. She had until noon to take advantage of the low tide, but she was in no rush. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...r_pongwe06.jpg We had arrived 2 days ago on her beautiful, but touristy home-island. Until the 1964 Revolution, Zanzibar was ruled by a sultan, overthrown in favor of an experimental union with the (then) republic of Tanganika. That abruptly ended the Omani influence and the archipelago's heyday. Zanzibar had long been the centre of East Africa's slave, ivory and spice trade, enjoyed economic prosperity and became the birthplace of swahili culture, a unique blend of African and Arab heritage. The largely conservative Muslim society is proudly distinctive from the rest of Tanzania, and Pemba island still dominates the world's clove trade. This is a foodie paradise. For our first night out, Neyfuu took us to Forodhani (Jamituri) Gardens, for zanzibari pizza (a chapati stuffed with minced meat) and mishkaki (kebabs) http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2035.jpg Many tourists mingled abut in skimpy clothing; it was the largest concentration of whites we had seen since leaving SA http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2034.jpg For breakfast, Neyfuu and cooked Omani bread (resembles a French crepe) with clove honey from Pemba and ginger tea� http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2400.jpg Everything tastes better in Zanzibar. We did don't sample what proper restaurants - you the kind of places your order tilapia and they bring you embellishments of fruit and flower - have to offer. This is all street-side food. Locals start their day with a dose of carbs: usually Zanzibari bread (bolo), Pemba bread (like a double toasted bolo), maandazi (you may see it spelled andazi, and is a small doughnut which in Zanzibar is perfumed with whole cardamom), chapati or another variety (and there are dozens). Bread goes with spiced masala or ginger tea (chai rangi - simple, or chai maziwa - with milk). Sure, if you need to move some tons of charcoal and sugarcane with your bare hands, you might go for a hardier breakfast, like soup. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2240.jpg Top shelf: bolo. This is a typical village breakfast stall, unmarked, camouflaged behind a curtain. Hungry? See a curtain? Pull it, and there's your food, man. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2243.jpg We've got one word for you: Darajani. This is the central market in Stone Town, where all vendors, flavors and temptations collide. We walked through, taking bits of everything. As usual in African rural communities or muslim countries, hospitality is key. Vendors were happy to refill our tea cup over capacity and street-side mamas frying fish to see us returning for seconds. Something caught my eye with this one mama. 'It's tuna', she said. 'Do you eat this?' We did. Tuna is arguably an unsustainable fish, but it's so good, raw or grilled, but fried? The perfectly crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside chunk of tuna swung a magic broom in our gustative memory, clearing an instant space, where sushi used to be. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2350.jpg Octopus soup http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2352.jpg Beef liver in mango sweet and sour marinade http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2353.jpg Oversized boflo http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2359.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2361.jpg But there's more: skewered scallop, squid, mussels; beef soup; potato dumplings� Even chinese noodles rolled by the chinese, drying on outdoor platforms. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2347.jpg To refreshen the palate between bites, there is a mind boggling variety of juices: sugar cane, passion fruit & avocado, tamarind http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2358.jpg We pondered the time and effort needed to produce a 200 Tsh (10 Euro cents) glass of perfectly chilled sugarcane juice: the cane needs farming, harvesting and transporting to the juice stall; where a man would work for hours to clean it and cut it, then when the thirsty crowds gather, he will roll the cane through manually operated machine to squeeze the sweet liquid, which is mixed with crushed ice, and we haven't even started about where does that come from. Now, we are not Gargantua and Pantagruel. To make space for more of the good stuff, we took a walk around Stone Town, the pulsating heart of the island. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania..._stonetown.jpg Narrow alleys, double storied houses with diminutive spice & handcraft shops @ ground level and veiled women reminded us of the Moroccan medinas. Ana was toting the empty eco package from some fruit she had bough a few hours ago in a village, which kept instigating touts to ask if we were from the 'spice tour'. It turned out that on these 'spice tours' tourists receive the most ridiculous woven hats that resembled Ana's basket. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2389.jpg Zanzibar has around one million of predominantly Muslim inhabitants. Mosques, madrases and caravanserais blend harmoniously with churches and hindu temples into the townscape, with their simple white facades decorated with suras from the Quran and pavilions so typical of early Arab architecture. Since 2000, the capital of the small archipelago has been a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2376.jpg After looking like a miniature Djema El Fna last night, now Forodhani was quiet and sunny http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2392.jpg In the heart of Forodhani lies the jewel of the late Sultan Bargash, the 'Harun ar-Rashid' of the Busaidi family. The monumental building with elements of Victorian and Indian colonial architecture was dubbed the 'House of Wonders', because at the time it was the only house on Zanzibar that had electricity and even an elevator. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2393.jpg Imposing gates, portals and shutters are a characteristic of the old quarter of Stone Town. Decorated with symbols of status and prosperity (lotus, water lilly, the sun), wood inlays and calligraphy (Quran verses), they are indicative of the diverse of Arab, Indian and Swahili heritage, providing information about the owner of the building, his origin and even his trade. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2366.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2367.jpg |
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Even the newer doors bear an important significance, and make mandatory wedding gifts for newlyweds http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2375.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2396.jpg Gujarati style doors at the main entrance of the Ismaili jamatkhana (mosque) http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2398.jpg 'I'm ready' I said, after a while, 'let's hit the fruit stalls'. Everything seamed to be miraculously in season: passion fruit, star fruit, banana, daf (young coconut), embe (mango), parachici (avocado), pawpaw (papaya), durian, bread fruit and anything you could possibly desire. But we knew what we were looking for, something we have seen before in Asia but had yet to try. The oversized testicle of the fruit world. 'Nataka fenesi', we asked left and right, and soon enough we had found our dealer. He quietly cracked it open. “Check this out,” he almost whispered. Inside, pearly yellow clusters of perfectly ripe jackfruit. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2394.jpg Isn't it awesome to feel like a kid again, and eat something that tastes like banana custard with your hands? Sure, there will be some of that sticky stuff oozing from the center all over yourself, but dang, baby. Jackfruits, they is fine. Now, it was time to see some island. One option was the inexpensive dalla-dallas, but I had to have an engine between my legs. Nassur called a chap who would give us a Honda for 2/3 of our daily budget. 'Local price', he said. After a moment of self doubt, we shrugged and said: hey, its' okay. We could indulge in great food for under 3 euros for both per day and we would sleep al-fresco anyway. And this bike was light enough for Ana to also have a go. First, we headed to the northernmost point of the island, Nungwi. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2081.jpg Free feet, at last. We kicked off our suffocating shoes, peeled off our stinky riding socks and let a bazzilion molecules of mother earth massage and tickle our soul and our soles. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...r_ngunwi02.jpg From Nungwi we rode south along the east coast to Matemwe, where direct weekly flights between Italy and Zanzibar had resulted in a eclectic scene: fishermen greeted us with a 'ciao, come stai?', Italian-speaking Maasai tribesmen (or people wearing a costume, who knows) stand guard by resort entrances, while local men and veiled women mended their nets. Some kids wanted to skanderbeg. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2089.jpg The more south we went, the more touristy it became. As a longtime cyclist quoted in his excellent blog, 'there are certain places, surrounded by a halo of romance, to which the inevitable disillusionment which you must experience on seeing them gives a singular spice'(Somerset Maugham). Hectares of trees had been long wiped out, there is little, if any, wildlife left in the now 'privately owned' Joziani forest and there is a hectic display of real-estate bubble waiting to pop. Unfortunately many contend to enjoy their white beaches and turquoise sea, while whole communities are being disenfranchised and dispersed to make place for more and more buildings. (A note to fellow Romanians: we recently learnt that Vama Veche beaches have became so trendy that some streches have now names!). In Jambiani, we couldn't enjoy our passion fruit snack, without constantly being offered 'cheap' accommodation, collectables and henna tattoos. Riding through coral stone settlements we found peace again. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...jambiani01.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2119.jpg We had spotted an empty compound where we could camp, but then we found an empty resort near Uroa, where they would allow us to pitch the tent and indulge in decent wifi. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2093.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...esortnight.jpg We slept well, the roar of the waves splattering the reef carried ashore by the south east monsoon wind. In the morning, the dhows floated enigmatic on the rising tide. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2132.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2134.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2232.jpg Halfway between the southern and northern tip of Uguja island, the surf retreats every six hours many kilometers away. Great for beach riding. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...r_pongwe01.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2253.jpg At low tide, the wet mass of sand stretches naked. Small pools of water were busy with sea urchins and starfish. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2284.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2343.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2282.jpg |
This guy had a psychedelic glow
http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2344.jpg It is the ideal environment for aquaculture of red algae ( Euchema spinosum and E. cottoni), used in the food & cosmetic industry. Seaweed farming is exceptional, because it is an environmentally responsible trade and because women famers can earn up to three times than what men earn in commercial fishing. In the village of Pongwe, a handful of locals had come out to work. Fatuma was among them, and soon enough she invited Ana to give a hand. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2306.jpg For a while, Ana fantasized about staying in this corner of paradise and work on the plantations for a few months. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2308.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2335.jpg Once harvested, the seaweed is sundried. The government has provided women with access to coastal waters, ownership of seaweed plots and negotiated on behalf of farmers a fairer harvest price with export-import companies. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2257.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...r_pongwe02.jpg An interesting fact is that algae could be an environmentally friendly source of bio-fuel, one that, unlike alternatives, does not compete for arable land. But transition to a bio-fuel revolution could be far from happening, because of the recent emergence of women as primary bread-winners in the conservative Zanzibari society. And maybe it would be better to stay this way, because venturing into the global market always has its negative perks. Anyway, after spending a few days in Zanzibar, it was time to go. Say good bye to the surreal seaweed fields and the romantic dhows. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...r_pongwe03.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2297.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2299.jpg Tenga, a woven fishing basket http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2270.jpg We left Zanzibar with mixed feelings. We guess it could still be viewed as a relatively unspoiled paradise, but the tourism industry is striving to change that. Ordinary people born on Zanzibar or Pemba hardly reap any benefits and remain largely uneducated and poor, and younger generation is favoring a return to autonomy of the archipelago. But the culture, landscape, food and especially people of Zanzibar made us fall in love with this place, dreaming to ever return, and maybe stay. |
Natron Schmatron
Tanzania 08 - 10/06/2012 We had returned to pick up our motorbike to the crumbling old customs in Bagamoyo http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania..._bmoyofort.jpg Our mood - even if we were returning from the stunning Zanzibar - was crumbling as well. To top the list of gear that has been slowly decaying to bits (tent, mattresses, clothing etc), in Bagamoyo we had new wounds to lick. Our MacBook and 24 mm Canon lens had been damaged, after an unfortunate incident that involved a concrete slab. Camera appears to be ok. We duct taped the lens, but there even hand held it will focus one out of maybe fifteen attempts. A small disaster we have yet to come to terms with, now that vagabonding has tempered with our attachment to material things. But these things were tough to get. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2065.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2059.jpg Blogging, documenting and taking photos have been all integral to our journey across Africa. If we are to continue doing so, we must find a replacement laptop and lens. Besides shopping for sponsors (so hard to come by), we never planned that other people somehow fund our travels. We left thinking that we'd find temporary jobs while traveling or scramble. But after 1 year on the road things are getting a bit desperate. We are now looking for the cheapest way to replace these two essential tools. Maybe you know retailers or dealers who might be interested in offering a hefty discount or even sponsorship to us? Maybe you�ve enjoyed reading this blog and even if you've been saving all year for summer holiday you might still consider contributing, if you can, something towards covering the cost of the broken bits. � If so, please get in touch, any information/support is very, very much appreciated indeed. It is also why for a while there will be less photos in this report and why you can now see the dreaded paypal 'donate' following link. Hopefully you will not see it for long, but if you decide to click it, your support will not remain unrewarded. We have selected 5 photos representing 5 special moments in our round Africa trip. For any donation of min. 20 Euro, we will post from Bucharest the photo of your choice, printed on B5 format and signed. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/selection.jpg Africa never forgives a mistake, but we were still in the game. One of the reasons we went west, on the border of Kenya and Tanzania, was to see a soda lake with water nearly as basic as ammonia, that breeds 2.5 million of endangered Lesser Flamingos: Lake Natron. This salty red hell of algae and cyanobacteria is one of Rift Valley�s most environmentally extreme spots. Natron is close to the more famous Ngorongoro crater, which could provide us with the opportunity to ride along another amazing place. It took us a day and a half to arrive there, actually in Moshi, after sleeping a night in a sisal plantation. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...bushcamp02.jpg Sisal farming is experiencing a revival in Tanzania, once world's largest grower, now a distant, albeit promising second after Brazil. In the late 19th century, in what was then Tanganyika, seeds were smuggled from the Yucatan peninsula in Mexico. Today over 2 million Tanzanian smallholders are growing sisal, but in the meantime even the economic significance of the plant has changed. Traditionally used to make ropes and twines, the sisal lint is now used to reinforce plastics in car interiors, in roofing materials, piping, and fiberboard. The low grade fibre is even employed in the paper recycling process. Sisal is a promising source for biofuel. Not to mention that the plantations make a nice background for camping. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...z_aloecamp.jpg Road to Arusha http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...arusharoad.jpg At 5895 m, Kilimanjaro, Africa�s highest mountain and arguably its most iconic landmark was right in front of us. An impressive sight. At least it would have been if it wasn�t completely hidden behind the thick dark cloudscapes. We took some dirt tracks among lush coffee fields, hoping to find a spot where, if we squinted really well, we could see a shadow in the fog. There's your Mt. Kilimanjaro, better luck next time. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2485.jpg This guy confirmed that what we could not see was indeed the famous mountain http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2484.jpg Mount Meru was a bit more visible. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2490.jpg And later these long extinct volcanos were a nice backdrop for our freedom http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...bushcamp03.jpg To reach Natron, you need join the good tar leading into the crater. These few miles of 5 star road are populated by innumerable safari jeeps, that stop here and there, so that the tourists can step out and snap Maasai tribesmen and women. If until recent times the nomadic people of Tanzania and Kenya have been discouraged to modernize their way of life, things are now changing. On the way to Ngorongoro one can see dozens if not hundreds of Maasai (or are they?) lining the road, masquerading the traditional attire, waiting or even begging to be photographed for money. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...rongorotar.jpg Then we turned right. There's always something therapeutic about leaving the long straight lines of tarmac and zig zagging among mountains and valleys, helmet flooded in sweat, until you and your bike can finally breathe again. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2529.jpg http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2532.jpg It was scalding hot, kooky cacti forests sprayed across the vast expanse of mattress-puncturing acacia where few Maasai compounds scattered. These are called Boma, and are inhabited by man and domestic cattle alike. A hut takes 3 days to build: a timber framework is fixed directly into the ground, then a web of branches is interwoven with it, and finally plastered with a mix of mud, sticks, grass, cow dung and urine, and ash. The traditional Massai society is patriarchal and polygamist, centered around cattle, the primary source of food. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...ngorongoro.jpg The occasional Maasai stared vacantly at us as we stopped to contemplate asking permission to take a photo. They were wrapped up in Sh�k�s (traditional red and purple plaid blankets) and wore bike tyre flip flops. The Maasai believe that a camera can steal their soul, but since mass tourism has conquered this land, things changed. We already are too shy to shove the amera in someone's face, most times we prefer to spend some time with the people, interact, introduce ourselves etc. Now there was also the photo-for-money paradigm to negotiate. Nuyara gave us a minute. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2563.jpg The site of world's largest volcanic caldera stirred our souls. Somewhere beyond it we could guess the Great Open Place of Africa, Serengeti. http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania/IMG_2537.jpg We stopped at the edge of this horizonless, dramatic natural arena and gaze not at one, not two, but at three volcanos http://intotheworld.eu/blog/tanzania...orongoro02.jpg We had researched our destination: some travelers had reported Natron to be infested with hasslers, blocked by illegal toll gates. People had been forced to pay hundreds of dollars at gunpoint, escorted from their bushcamp etc. We hoped those reports had been accidental. In Arusha we confirmed with the police and several travel agents that Natron is not a national park, that there should be no fees (except for a 1 Euro community fee in the village), no problems. Then, we arrived at a barrier. Someone had painted '15 USD' at the bottom of a wood board, obviously after it'd been mounted. That was the first 'toll gate', so the reports were accurate. We argued in vain, and soon the first dude with AK47 showed up. They told us that there was a second 'toll gate', where we should pay 10 USD. So 50 dollars to see the lake. As we were turning back, a bus crammed with locals arrived in front of the barrier, and suddenly a white arm sprung out waving and someone shouted 'great country!'. Almost instantly the barrier was lowered and more vigilantes and AK47 appeared. The unfortunate man who couldn't contain his enthusiasm and had to salute us, proved to be a tourist accompanied by a Tanzanian lady. He had a letter from some NGO, that should exempt him from paying the 'fees'. If he had kept his mouth shut, the bus would have passed through. Everybody started to shout and argue, and it became clear that we will not be allowed thru. It was time to concede that Natron was not meant to happen this time. Retracing our tracks back to the main road, we still felt good, tripping on hot baked-in chemicals, released off the ground. Nothing in the tranquil and warm landscape that sheltered our last night in Tanzania let us suspect that we were about to pay for all the good times we had had. |
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