Another Handlebar thread...
 

I have searched the forum, and have come up with some alternative handlebars to replace my OEM ones. Please note this is for the XTR.

Renthal 722
Renthal 735
Renthal RC
Renthal Streetfighter
Renthal Trail Bars


Do I need clamps with any of these? Are they a straight swop-over, apart from a cable re-route? And...which ones do you like for offroad? And which handguards do you like? Are there any handguards that don't clear on full lock with Renthals? And bar end weights? I thought this topic needed updating, as several people have said they are going to fit X,Y,Z..but I am looking for user-feedback.

I want better height (as much height as I can) for standing up offroad, ....and stronger bars!!! I am fitting foam grips too.(don't laugh!)

Ive a set of streetfighter bars which although not as wide as the OE ones are just ever so slightly higher which suits me for off roading, plus they seem to be made from something strong rather than warm cheese like the OE ones. I didnt need to change anything to put them on, just take everything off and put the new bars on.

Ive a set of acerbis/yammy hand guards and found that the newer inners i dont think fit it, but the older style with the rubber incert seems to work ok.

I have 7/8 Renthal RC. Not higher from original handlebar, but not too much. Wider. I did not knew how to mount original bar ends, so I left them and so far is ok. Handguards are from louis.de, the cheapest one. I suppose Renthal RC high is better solution.

The bar chart for 22mm bars.

http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/handlebar-dimensions/

By the looks of it you will need a bar with rise & swep if you stand lots.

Thanks Kev..I was struggling a bit with the Renthal Website..Is the HEIGHT measured from the centre-line, or the bottom of the bars? That was one of the things that still isn't very clear. (Iam staying with 22mm-7/8th BTW.)

I assume the centre-line IS the measuring point.

I have some Ozzie Barkbusters VPS, they cost �60 with the mounting kit. A very sturdy bit of kit, I like them better than my Acerbis ones, as they offer more protection.

I also add the 613 into the choice.......

The Height is from center to center.

To measure the height of your standard bars, place the loose bars on a flat surface with a spirit level on the end of the bars & measure from the flat surface to under the bar end to get the height.

ty Kev...thought so, in which case their is a bit of false information on here, I'll see if I can dig it out and correct it

I have 613's on both my Ten' and my GasGas.

Be careful, wider and higher...

I have ordered some 613's...I don't think anyone has these, according to this forum, on an R. Will let you know how it goes.

For the suggestion Box. I think a "sticky" for confirmed fitments of aftermarket handlebars would be good. The handlebar information is all-over the place, and this would make easier information access.

I think the R X and Z must all be different sizes.....and maybe the sizes changed as each model evolved??

have you fitted the 613 ?

The XTR 2008 has OEM handlebar dimensions of

Width 775
Height 100*
Rise 65

The bars I have just bought, Renthal 613, (fingers crossed that they will fit!) are:

Width 830
Height 130
Rise 95

If I have to reduce the width by 60, (to 770) it would give me a height of 120. So, I hope they will fit ok without removing any material.

To be honest, they really don't look that much higher anyway. I may have to go the route of bar risers, and possibly get longer cables, to get a good and noticeable height improvement.

What I am looking for is a much more comfortable "standing on the pegs" position, at the moment it feels like I am bending down to reach the handlebars.

* I had several different measurement results between 100 and 115. It is very difficult to get the handlebars flat and at 90 degrees for measuring. This is how the motocross shop told me to do it, i.e. have them totally upright on a flat surface (table).

No, I have Renthal RC, 971, on my R. I need risers now.

the 971 is 802 wide, 99 high.

Well the good news is that the Renthal 613 fits. The 613 seems to be the highest and widest Renthal as well.....

And, I am very suprised that it feels SO much better! (It looked like only being a very minor improvement.......) It is now much more comfortable standing up. RESULT!!

I had to re-route the clutch cable and switchgear wiring. And I still have a little finishing off/tidying up to do, but no wire/cables trouble lock-to-lock. As you can see, the clutch cable now goes round the outside of the fork leg,( not ideal..but you could always get a longer clutch cable) and the switch gear wiring goes down the inside.

BTW..there isn't much further slack throttle-cable-wise.........so I think if you did want risers as well, you would need longer throttle cables at least. I didn't have to shorten the Renthals after all. And I have the bars set slightly forwards for better comfort. I don't think I need risers now.

And I bought the wrong size wall plugs for fitting the bar end weights along with the Barkbusters,doh!, but have a photo showing what I am doing (no Barkbuster fitted in photo)

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_0974.jpg
http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_0975.jpg

Nice. Tanks for posting.

the finished article, I used M8 wall plugs, and M8 X 100 bolts for the endweights/ Barkbusters.
http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_1006.jpg

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_1009.jpg
http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_1010.jpg

the bars look good!

did you have to drill holes in them for the throttle and switch gear or is there another way?

Just hit this problem and thought I'd check...

Lance

yep...drill the holes.

You can also cut the logs off so no holes for locating lugs needed.

I suggest that if you get the switchgear in the right position, then stick some masking tape in the area where the lugs are ( 1. to stop the drill slipping,2. to help show the paint), the drop a bit of paint on the lug, and close the switchgear to mark the spot, then remove the switchgear, use a c-punch/ rivet punch to help guide the drill bit, and drill the hole, making sure any swarf is not going to hit the forks.

Or you could do what I did, and get both of them slightly wrong - in opposite directions - so you have somewhat pissed switchgear :D

maybe I should have come back to this post earlier! lol

my starter is now a new security feature (in that it’s hard to get to)

and the kill switch is now a new safety feature (easier to get to)

least the indicators are in the right place :-)

have learned for next time...

I tried the switch gear without the lugs installed before drilling but found they did not appear to be secure and slid round the bars with little force...

with the plastic lug "thingie" installed, but log removed, is the switchgear more stable?

do you mean that you cut off the lugs? :eusa_doh:

If so, you could put a little grippy tape around the handlebar.

I now think that the cluch cable does need to be longer..and I am going here.. http://www.venhill.co.uk/Motorbike_B...YAMAHA/650-660

IS the correct answer :)

Thanks for posting this stuff. I have purchased the same bar (613-01) but have found that both my throttle and my clutch cables are slightly too short. Thinking about re-routing now. I don't mind what it looks like but obviously want it to be safe (!). Do you think it's do-able/worth it over trying to buy longer cables?

probably best getting new cables as the clutch cable i dont think you can really reroute it as its in the perfect position/route for operation at the moment and any other way may cause problems. Not sure how much they cost but they should cost a million $$$

you may be right but I got bored yesterday and re-routed the throttle and clutch cables to the rear of the bars so they don't go between the forks. Its given me enough slack for the bars. Doesn't seem to cause any problems lock to lock, throttle opens and closes just as freely and clutch seems just as good as before - which makes sense as the cables are not curved anymore than they were before. I'll keep an eye on it and report back here if any problems come from it.

I just installed Renthal RC High on WRP fat-bar risers/adapters. Only issue i've had is the clutch cable. Had to get rid of one og the tie wraps.



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