Front Sprocket Nut
 

Before I go and take my bike to bits,

Does anyone have the specification for the front Sprocket Nut ?

Not listed in the Parts or workshop manuals......


????

Kev ??

http://www.xt660.com/showpost.php?p=134804&postcount=2

No not the size of the socket, the specification of the nut, 32mm is the outside, what about the inside ???

Round with threads.

Granted I've got an X but when I changed the C&S Kit the other week mine was very much like this too.



:laughing7:

What do you mean

No idea. Why? And if you are taking your bike apart, surely you can measure it?

So you are after the pitch & diameter of the thread?

If so why may I ask?

FWIW, I wouldn't bother with a socket - try an angle grinder!
Had a long bar (trolley jack lever) on the socket on my Ten with the rear brake locked solid........stood on bar, bounced a bit and the freakin' socket still won't budge! The nut is torqued to 85 ft-lb (12kgm)!!!! Twice the torque output of the engine.
WHY???? Suzuki's DR650/750/800 sprocket nut is held in place by a locking plate which in turn is screwed to the sprocket with 3x M10 bolts.....:017:

Air gun always works for me.

Erm, thanks people.......

It's a super secret mission, and I just don't think anyone has the security vetting for me to tell you.

Never mind, all resolved now.

Machine Mart, �20 odd quid, Clarke 12v impact driver.

I agree the locking plate method does the job just as well (although the DR750/800 has a gurt big nut) and is much less of a PITA.

Would a 12v power tool really be powerfull enough to deal with such a highly torqued/seized nut?
As for an air gun - I was thinking more along the lines of a shotgun!!! :rocketwhore:

Btw Uber, my DR800SL has a locking plate as well.

So Darren, back to topic: belt/shaft drive conversion??!! ;-)

Yes, trust me. You want to go to Machine Mart and buy the cheapest one you can find. I can't find it on their site, but it's the one which runs either off a lighter socket or a pair of battery clamps (ie it doesn't have its own battery). About �20.

Mine will undo stuff that my air gun won't do (admittedly mainly because my compressor isn't man enough to power the air gun flat out). It's not powerful, but it doesn't work like an air gun that hits several times a second. Instead it winds up for a couple of seconds then gives it an almighty thump.

Put it this way, I'd borrowed one off a mate before, but went out and bought my own because I needed to change the C&S on my Ten' and the air gun wouldn't do it. It did the job.

Sorry, I was being a bit thick - I remembered cursing and jumping up and down on a long bar with my old DR8, but on thinking a bit more it was the clutch, not the sprocket.

I have the olde fashioned Impact Driver, removes anything. Line it up and wack it with a lump hammer. Brilliantly simple.


I read on this very forum a method of removing a sprocket nut. goes a bit like this...

using a strong arm (like a long bar specialy for sockets)

stand on the right side of the bike, bike on the sidestand, in gear and stand on the brake pedal.

reach over the bike, and pull on the strong arm (that is connected via a socket to the sprocket nut), it works perfectly. If you are worried about your back, rest your chest on the bike and use your shoulders/arms.

That EX engine swap is looking all the more likely...

That's similar to what I already do GULG - except I lock the rear wheel with a tie down strapped around the brake pedal and centre stand. Still don't wanna budge even standing on the long bar (70ish kg x 0.5m = 35kgm and still not enough torque to undo!!)
Think I'll check out the Clarke gizmo - cheers Uber.

Do you want a VFR750 engine?

Does it come with carbs and loom?

No.

Then no thank you, I don't need another doorstop ;)
Can I interest you in a Jawa? :munky2:

Rick, the torque spec for that nut is no more than the wheel nut torque on the average car, so you shouldn't be having so many problems getting it undone.
Can anyone confirm - it's not a left hand thread by any chance is it? Can't thing why it would be though.

Pete

Pete, what a nightmare it was!!

I took Darren's advice and bought a 4lb club hammer to use with my impact driver. Nut still wouldn't budge. :tazdevil:

Threatened the nut a couple of times with a cold chisel (getting desperate here!). Thought better of that as I hadn't ordered a spare nut as I had planned.
Was it actually a left handed thread?? Direction of sprocket rotation doesn't require a left handed thread but I checked the manual to be sure. No mention of being left handed.

So I let rip with a blow torch on it a couple of times; stood on breaker bar again and bingo - that satisfying crack of :brave:!!!

New sprocket installed with plenty of copper grease. I managed to torque up the nut with just the cylinder compression holding the countershaft enough.

Tip: when changing the front sprocket, turn it back and forth with the engine in gear to feel/hear any play in the clutch. I think mine needs attention and I've a nasty feeling there is play in the clutch basket cush springs :icon_sad:.

Rick

Took me a great deal of sweat, blood from scuffed knuckles and :cry[1]: (big boys do cry) to get my R's front sprocket off. Ended up putting the bike on a centre jack, got my dad to sit on the bike with near all his pressure on the rear brake, had a socket and a extension bar and another metal tube on over that (total about 1 metre long) and just about got the bloddy thing off.

Did the same as you a good go of grease on it and just keep an eye on it.

Took it off again to change the front sprocket over for off roading and so so much easier.

I just went down the local bike shop and asked them to undo it with their rattle gun (compressed air impact wrench as the tyre shops have) - Piece of cake.

No blood sweat and tears and no stained gearboxes, chains or blow torches and club hammers - aaarrrghh.

Not sure I'd let you guys near my bike with those kinds of techniques or tools!!!!! Smacking the end of the counter shaft with a club hammer via an impact driver - ouch no way (I know it works, but think of the poor gearbox bearings etc. being subjected to all that shock loading it wasn't designed to resist???)

Be gentle with your fine ride - it will look after you if you do.

Do you understand how a 'rattle gun' works..........

I expect he does, and to some degree he has a point. A rattle gun will only ever put a torsional load into the output shaft. An impact driver that you hit with a hammer will inevitably put a reasonable axial load into it as well.

Whether this is worth worrying about is another question.

I guess wheelies/jumping speed humps/off-roading is out of the question then?!
:p

At 51kg I'd say the XT660 engine is built like a brick s**t house.

Over 58,000 miles as a courier bike, 60-65mpg consistantly, 18-20,000 miles chain life, 10-13,000 miles on rear tyre (including E-07!!) and still easy on oil.
Haven't broken it yet.

Must be doing something right.....:angel1: